Engine Coolant

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Just wondering what types of coolant everyone is using.

From 1978 till approx 2003 I used corrosion inhibitor SQ36. At that time it became near impossible to source, so I switched over to Tectaloy Xtra cool (correct spelling), also a corrosion inhibitor.

When the 4.6 Range Rover engine was installed, the system was filled with Penrite Pro AF/AB, a 33% mix. Penrite is the official supplier to Land Rover Australia.

Ron.

 

[The Rovering Member]

I was using anti-freeze & distilled water until I was informed (on the P5 site I think) that the water would be sucking minerals out of the metal so now I use tap water. TBH I don't buy any particular anti-freeze, just 20 litres of whatever our local factor has in.

 

[quattro]

Just wondering what types of coolant everyone is using.

From 1978 till approx 2003 I used corrosion inhibitor SQ36. At that time it became near impossible to source, so I switched over to Tectaloy Xtra cool (correct spelling), also a corrosion inhibitor.

When the 4.6 Range Rover engine was installed, the system was filled with Penrite Pro AF/AB, a 33% mix. Penrite is the official supplier to Land Rover Australia.

Ron.

Mine is red; I thought it was rusty, dirty water to start with but is is red.

As I am not sure exactly what it is and the concentration is a little low, I will be changing it for some Halfords antifreeze and summer coolant shortly. If the builders ever finish my garage :evil:

 

[Demetris]

Mine is red; I thought it was rusty, dirty water to start with but is is red.

Then maybe it is one of those new fangled organic stuff that has to be mixed with tap water. If this is the case just keep in mind that it doesn't mix well with the "normal" green antifreeze and it causes blockages. Make sure that you rinse the system very well before you attmept such a change.

 

[quattro]

Mine is red; I thought it was rusty, dirty water to start with but is is red.

Then maybe it is one of those new fangled organic stuff that has to be mixed with tap water. If this is the case just keep in mind that it doesn't mix well with the "normal" green antifreeze and it causes blockages. Make sure that you rinse the system very well before you attmept such a change.

Yeah I know 8)

I have an Audi A6 as well and someone in its past topped it up with the wrong anti freeze and it formed a lot of 'bits' in it. I will be cleaning the Rover's water system out very well, and the Audi's.

The Audi's will be replaced with the specified anti freeze, which is red, and the Rover's will be a nice shade of blue.

 

[tantus pedis]

When I was in engineering some of the old boys there said they added cutting fluid in with the antifreeze as this provided lubricating properties (at high temperatures). I tried it with my car at the time (probably the 2200) and noticed no immediate adverse effect. I wondered if anyone else had heard of this?

Also I'm about to replace the water pump on my 3500. I seen mention on a MGB site that the threads of the bolts need to be coated with some anti-seize compound on re-fitting. Assuming that copper grease might couse some kind of galvanic reaction I've ordered some graphite anti-seize grease I saw cheapy cheap on eBay. Any hints with this?

 

[vaultsman]

Also I'm about to replace the water pump on my 3500. I seen mention on a MGB site that the threads of the bolts need to be coated with some anti-seize compound on re-fitting. Assuming that copper grease might

Good luck with that, mate! Getting the long bolts out was a right b****r for me..see my previous thread in this section. Sure I'm preaching to the converted...but give them a good soak, for a day or two if possible, in Plus Gas or similar...not WD40 (which isn't really a penetrating oil) and play some heat on them. When you do come to shift 'em, get plenty more heat on them beforehand and during. Put some pressure on clockwise, which can help to break the corrosion...then take it very steady! And as Harvey said, try and use a hex socket (not bi-hex) to avoid rounding them off.

Not sure about the graphite grease..but could work OK. When mine goes back I'll be fitting stainless studs to replace the long bolts.

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

I use an anti seize lubricant made by Loctite. It is silver in colour and meets a number of military requirements. It prevents galvanic corrosion and galling of threads and bolts between dissimilar metals up to temperatures exceeding 1000 degrees C.

Removing bolts be they water pump or any other is never a problem.

When I first had to remove my waterpump, which was around 1990 at the time, the original pump having lasted since 1974,...I never had any problems at all in removing the bolts. No rounded heads or anything of the sort. Maybe I was just lucky, but other owners that I have spoken too also experienced similar outcomes.

I can only assume that it may have to do largely with the climate in which the cars find themselves.. :?

Ron.

 

[vaultsman]

I can only assume that it may have to do largely with the climate in which the cars find themselves.. :?

Ron.

Or the luck of the Aussies?

Believe me Ron...they can be a pain.

 

[tantus pedis]

Practically fell off

Bugger of a job trying to fit new one though. I wrecked the gasket pretty quickly as I couldn't see a way of getting the power steering bracket out the way. Ended up leaving it out and using orange instant gasket. Seems ok so far :?

The fins on the pump are a different design but I'm hoping that just a more effcient version.

 

[westOz74P6B]

I'll be going down the same path as Vaultsman and making up some Stainless Steel studs as soon as I source some stainless bar, I'm also wondering if half the problem with water seeping into these four bolts is because of the face on the timing cover is pretty crap, as after running a good flat lathe file across the face there is a lot of highs and lows, especially around the water jacket between front cover and the block. I was contemplating having this face properly machined by taking a minimum of 10 thou off the face to clean it up a little. I'm thinking 10 thou should not make much difference on the distributer drive off the camshaft gear. Anyone else done this before? You would also get a better seal (clamping force) using studs as bolts have to twist and pull in their threads to achieve the same.

Regards, Scott

Also by way of edit, I forgot to mention that when I was cleaning out the threads (of the long bolts) in the block with a tap, I then used compressed air to clean out the swarf and heard the air blowing out into the water jacket, so I had a hole in one of these threaded holes in the block that went through into the water jacket and this bolt was rusty along its entire length where water had made its way past the thread and into the space around the bolt. So obviously there was a weak casting at this point or the hole had been drilled a little too deep when manufactured resulting in this fault in which case there would be other blocks out there with the similar fault (as mentioned by someone else in another thread who had the same fault) hence my desire to fit studs so i can then use a sealant on the faulty threaded hole I have and tighten these long studs at the water pump end, Regards, Scott