Dutch Rover V8 "4600" - (former 2200TC topic)

Thanks for the advice Dave! :)

All these jobs are rather minor, but I thought she was in good nick so it was a bit of a bummer. Ah well, when I get these things sorted she'll be good to go. 8)
 
The braking light was easy, the bulb was the bad part. I checked it once, seemed fine, but when I switched the left and right bulb it became obvious that it was the bulb. I (hopefully) mended my exhaust properly with some gumgum exhaust paste. :)


Had a go at the brakes today and yesterday with my dad.

The left brake does function a little, but it's so little that you can still move the weel (car jacked up) with your hand when your applying the brakes.

We took both the right and rear brake partly apart (the fluid passes through the right one first) as far as that we took out the brake pads to compare them. The pads on the right brake are worn down quite a lot more then the left ones; the left brake hasn't functioned in quite some time! We sprayed all the moving parts (obviously not the disc) with some brake cleaner and gave it a proper clean. We inspected all the braking lines, hoses, connectors, cables etc etc etc and they all seemed in good nick, quite a lot of them looked brand spanking new actually!

After this we put the brakes back together (quite a fiddly job, but once you know how it works it's a piece of cake) and had another go. No difference... After that we decided it might be a good idea to bleed the system, we discovered that there was no air at all in the braking system. Besides that, all the fluid levels are ok and I can't imagine the system has a leak! (which would mean that the fluid levels would be low by now).

Anyone got any clues? :)
 
Looks like the caliper with the less worn pads isn't working. First make sure the pivot pin isn't seized, if not the caliper's coming off.
 
Dave3066 said:
The blower and heater don't work properly
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Have you checked the fuse and fuse holder? This is another area that can suffer from heat damage.
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The fuse holder looks like it melted a bit... :| Wiggled it about a bit, pressed in the fuse firmly and presto: a properly functioning blower. 8)

Don't have the time for fixing the brake myself, so I'm dropping my car off this friday at a local garage which my parents use for their cars. :) When they sort out the brake, she's finally ready for her MOT! :D
 
Lovely, the electrics on this car just keep giving problems... :roll: Just dropped of the car at the garage and I noticed my right rear light isn't working, and my white reverse light isn't working. Luckily they already checked those points at the MOT so they won't check that again, but it's still a problem I need to solve.
 
In terms of the rear brakes, did you blead the problem caliper ? and did fluid flow freely ? if not then the rubber link hose could be internally colapsed, will look fine from outside, this usually causes the brakes to stick on, but could also prevent sufficient fluid reaching your caliper.

You don't mention the handbrake operation, was the handbrake working ok on that caliper ?
 
I bled that rear break, fluid came gushing out on the first time pressing down the brake. :)

If I recall it correctly, the handbrake did not work on that caliper...
 
Rear brake fixed!

Now still having some problems with the exhaust manifold, it has some tiny holes in it... Thinking about getting it welded, but changing it for a new one would probably be the best sollution. Does anyone knows where I can get a new manifold for a 2200TC?
 
I'm guessing it's going to be a question of getting one made - probably in the £400 zone, but somebody might correct me ;)

Rich
 
I have heard legend of a new manifold, but they really are extremely rare - and for exactly the reason you have found. So you need to do a weld repair. That's only a partial fix though. I'd start by separating the system and manifold and getting the system to hang correctly on the mounting rubbers. Then see what error you have between the manifold and system. You should then try to get the manifold to take up the error by heating and bending. After welding, be sure to heat relieve the manifold (ie let it cook in a welders oven) before fitting. And finally go to a great deal of time and trouble to make sure that there is no stress between the manifold and system and that the system hangs as evenly as you can arrange.

Chris
 
Just a suggestion, while you're welding the manifold, why not weld a short flexi section at the end, like most fwd cars have. This would help to prevent excessive loads on the manifold.
 
Thijs Leuven said:
Now still having some problems with the exhaust manifold, it has some tiny holes in it... Thinking about getting it welded, but changing it for a new one would probably be the best sollution. Does anyone knows where I can get a new manifold for a 2200TC?
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These guys make them in SS, the last customer I had who got one mentioned £350 if my memory serves me :)

http://www.pdgough.com/

Most people go for the repair method but get a rough quote before hand :wink:
 
A new manifold is expensive (got the middle section of the exhaust in stainless steel for just under 150 pounds...), so I'm guessing the thing I'm going to do next is get it welded...

This project is taking quite a lot more time than I was hoping for, but this too will be sorted out! :)
 
Dropped of the car today, they'll start working on it first thing tomorrow. Sadly I simply don't have the time to do this work myself, but it needs to be done soon because I need the car in about two weeks time.

Hopefully this is the last essential thing to do before I can get her on the road again and start improving her step by step. 8)
 
Big crack in the manifold, not a good idea trying to weld it.

Found a replacement one here which is supposed to be in really good nick. :)
 
And it is!

DSC01055.jpg


Just some really minor repairs were done on this manifold, and it arrived freshly painted (the paint was stil a bit wet).

This will be going on the car today or tomorrow. I'll be picking her up thursday morning (have an exam on wednesday) and I'll get her MOT'ed immediatly. :)
 
Well... Still no MOT :( :( :(

The left rear brake still wasn't functioning. The caliper was in bad shape, so I got it overhauled completely. Fitted it this weekend, went for MOT today. Still too big of a difference in breaking force in between left and right, the right brake did about 50% more than the left break.

Since the left brak caliper was overhauled completely, there has to be a different problem this time. Perhaps it's just a matter of finetuning? On the handbrake, the difference between left and right was far smaller.

Anyone has any thoughts on this?
 
If the overhauled caliper is working as it should, then it's been incorrectly set up when it was refitted to the car. Did you check it was working before fitting?
I would say you need to drop the discs off again, disconnect the handbrake cable at the calipers, and then manually operate the handbrake quadrants until the discs just slide in between the pads with the caliper at rest. No excess free play, but no binding either. Then refit the handbrake cable ensuring that the handbrake quadrants on the calipers don't move off their stops. You should be able to tell whether the calipers are working properly as you manually operate them.
 
DaveHerns said:
Could it be a blocked hose linking the calipers?
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I would have thought you would have noticed that when you tried to bleed it after fitting the caliper. He did bleed it didn't he?..... :LOL:
 
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