Dutch Rover 2200TC

If everything's in good condition, it shouldn't be a problem I guess? I'd rather have this happening during the bleeding, don't want to bust my brake cylinder when I'm making an emergency stop... :shock:
 
And a job that should be simple just isn't.



Two out of four disconnected, the other two are stuck. Pretty stuck. Been spraying WD40 for a couple of days now, but I'm still wrecking the bolts instead of loosening them. Going to try a small torch if they won't cooporate this weekend!
 
Going to keep that in mind, thanks!

I already tried several tools, including those out of a "metrinch" set. That's a set of tools which fits both types of sizes, metric and UK style. They grip on the middle of the bolt instead of the corners like normal spanners do. Normally that works, but now no use...
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
Thijs Leuven said:
including those out of a "metrinch" set. That's a set of tools which fits both types of sizes, metric and UK style.
That just means they don't fit either sizes properly....

Most quality Metric* and Imperial spanners grip the flanks rather than the corners now.

*Not that I would know from experience you understand, it's just something I've heard.....
 
WD 40 is not a releasing agent, it is a water dispersant - that's what the WD stands for. It does that job perfectly well, but to release threads, use a proper penetrating oil.
 
Well, what did in the end was the adjustable spanner out of the original toolkit of my dad's Lotus. Exactly the right angle and enough grip! :)



Is this completely apart? There still is something inside the cylinder, but I don't see a way of getting it out easily. I don't see any torn rubbers, but there is some minor wear on the wall of the inside of the cylinder, near the opening...
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
With a dual circuit cylinder there should be two pistons, each with their own seals. Get a block of wood and hit the open end of the cylinder directly down on to it and that should shock the other piston into movement.
 
Yep, giving it a good knock on the head worked perfectly! Now everything's out. I can't really see any damaged rubber though, but ofcourse a leak only needs to be very small to cause problems... Any thoughts on this? Just order a rebuild kit and change all the rubbers? Or could the problem have come from something else?
 
Finally I got the rebuild kit for the master cylinder. Fitted all the new seals and put the thing back together. The thing is, when I manually push in the piston it sometimes gets stuck. Giving it an extra push releases it and then it just pops back out again. At least I'm now sure it seals off the cylinder properly... :)

Is this because it's got a brand new seal which is just a lot tighter than the old one? Will the extra pressure supplied by the brake fluid in the system help push it back?
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
You're probably pushing the piston far further than it will travel when it's fitted to the car, so the problem won't arise in use (hopefully), so I'd say fit it and test it before getting too worried.
 
Aaaaaaaaaaaaand she's back on the road!



The brakes are now working properly, but the brake pedal still needs some adjustment to get it at a comfortable height. Right now I need to lift off my foot of the gas quite a lot before I can get to the brake. But apart from that, the brakes are working good!

I also finally checked out the annoying whining in my radio, it was at the same frequency as the engine revs and quite loud. Adding a line directly from the + of the battery solved that problem! Added a fuse to make sure I won´t blow my nice Blaupunkt radio up... :)

 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
Thijs Leuven said:
The brakes are now working properly, but the brake pedal still needs some adjustment to get it at a comfortable height. Right now I need to lift off my foot of the gas quite a lot before I can get to the brake.
Pull the footwell carpet back and set the pedal so that the vertical distance between the lowest point on the pedal and the floor is 6 & 7/8". Set the clutch pedal so it's level with the brake pedal.
 
Allright, only had the chance to drive her for two weeks before the car broke down while my dad was out on a trip with her. She just stopped running all of a sudden and wouldn't start up.

We first thought it was a broken ignition coil, so we replaced that... Did not solve the problem at all, so we started looking at the ignition system. I don't have the standard points system, but a Lumenition electronic ignition. We ran some of the tests you can find on their website to check what caused the problem, either the power box or the optical switch that controls the power box. It seemed that the power box was the problem. Not having any money at the moment and heading for India for a couple of months, I decided to wait with replacing it.

My dad on the other hand felt bad for breaking down with my car, so he bought a brand new power box and fitted it. This has not solved the problem either... There is a current coming from the ignition coil to the optical switch, but it is only 1.9V while it should be 10 to 27V depending on the position of the rotor.

Any clues? As I mentioned I'm in India right now, so I can't check out the car myself. All the info I got in an e-mail from my dad.
 
Righto. Have been back for some weeks now, but haven't really had the to take a look at my car. Looked at it today though and this is what I'm up against...

There seems to be 12V going towards the ignition coil, and through the ignition coil to the electronic ignition. So it's getting all the power it needs! The problem is though that I'm not getting a spark from the cable coming out of the ignition coil going towards the distributor... Nothing at all. I hooked up some starter cables and a running car to make sure the battery was getting enough juice but it didn't help. :| The ignition coil is brand new, as is the power module on the electronic ignition, so those parts are working as they should.

What should I look at next? :?:
 
Top