Drive Train Problems - Torque converter?

tomrock

New Member
Hello all,

Just got in after a breakdown and a speedy recovery from the good old AA and was wondering if anyone could help before I get stuck in working on the car this week.

I have a 1968 2000 Automatic. This morning as I set off there would be the occasional crunching noise. It would intermittently crunch when changing gear, in neutral/park and when letting off the throttle. Suddenly, while on the A1 there was lots of crunching, and a sudden loss of drive. I could rev the car as if in neutral with the car making a lot of loud crunching noise. There was no drive in any gear. The engine still ran fine. I came to a stop on a verge, tried to start the car but the starter motor would not turn the engine. The motor itself would turn but the engine would not.

Any thoughts on what the culprit might be would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Tom
 
I agree. It has happened to me twice. Make sure the torque converter bolts are torqued correctly. The second time I had a failure the bolt holes were oval indicating that they had not been torqued correctly.
Also some replacement drive plates are stronger than others. If they have ‘spokes’ rather than a complete disk then I would guess that they are not as strong. Harvey may have some thoughts on this.
An automatic transmission shop should be able to make one. Any mechanic should be able to remove and replace the transmission without removing the motor.
Wadhams sells them but look like less strong. I had one made for me about 10 years ago in Vancouver BC. It was a solid disc, with no cut outs. If you are close to there I can probably find details of the machine shop that made it. The business that sold it to me has been sold, but I have the email address if the former owner. She would know which machine shop that made it for her.
 
I agree. It has happened to me twice. Make sure the torque converter bolts are torqued correctly. The second time I had a failure the bolt holes were oval indicating that they had not been torqued correctly.
Also some replacement drive plates are stronger than others. If they have ‘spokes’ rather than a complete disk then I would guess that they are not as strong. Harvey may have some thoughts on this.
An automatic transmission shop should be able to make one. Any mechanic should be able to remove and replace the transmission without removing the motor.
Wadhams sells them but look like less strong. I had one made for me about 10 years ago in Vancouver BC. It was a solid disc, with no cut outs. If you are close to there I can probably find details of the machine shop that made it. The business that sold it to me has been sold, but I have the email address if the former owner. She would know which machine shop that made it for her.
Thank you,I will make
I agree. It has happened to me twice. Make sure the torque converter bolts are torqued correctly. The second time I had a failure the bolt holes were oval indicating that they had not been torqued correctly.
Also some replacement drive plates are stronger than others. If they have ‘spokes’ rather than a complete disk then I would guess that they are not as strong. Harvey may have some thoughts on this.
An automatic transmission shop should be able to make one. Any mechanic should be able to remove and replace the transmission without removing the motor.
Wadhams sells them but look like less strong. I had one made for me about 10 years ago in Vancouver BC. It was a solid disc, with no cut outs. If you are close to there I can probably find details of the machine shop that made it. The business that sold it to me has been sold, but I have the email address if the former owner. She would know which machine shop that made it for her.
Thanks for your reply, I'll ensure the torque converter bolts are torque properly. I have seen some of the replacements that have spokes, can only see the solid ones for sale as used options (which is a route I might go down). Thank you, but am in England so not very close! I might look into getting one made, maybe once I have the broken one off.
 
To avoid repeat failure there are a lot of things that you have to make sure are correct, which ideally need looking at on dismantling to try and pinpoint the cause of the original failure.

The flexplates without the holes are aftermarket, and usually single sheet thickness, the ones with the holes are OE (or OE spec) and are double sheet thickness.
 
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