Dash repair

Hi
not that difficult, I cut away all the brittle plastic, then the damaged foam underlay,
used an expanding foam to rebuild the base, trimmed it back and the a stopper to bring it to the correct level.
sanded it flat, cleaned it with a degreaser, then I used a nylon backed vinyl from woolies.
for two reasons one it’s quite thin and secondly because it will stretch quite easily, which was glued with an impact adhesive.
hope that helps best regards Paul
 
Very nicely done. I used a crack repair kit on mine a few years ago. It’s looked great until a couple of months ago and it’s cracked again. I think the vinyl from Woolies would be the next step.
 
Last edited:
Paulj65 said:
Hi
not that difficult, I cut away all the brittle plastic, then the damaged foam underlay,
used an expanding foam to rebuild the base, trimmed it back and the a stopper to bring it to the correct level.
sanded it flat, cleaned it with a degreaser, then I used a nylon backed vinyl from woolies.
for two reasons one it’s quite thin and secondly because it will stretch quite easily, which was glued with an impact adhesive.
hope that helps best regards Paul
Click to expand...

I used the ICI grain vinyl from Woolies, it is identical to the original except perhaps it is embossed slightly deeper and is visibly better in quality. Took a bloody long time to do carefully stretching the front part. The pointy bits in the corner are most difficult. I ended up bunching it underneath, sanding the ends and colouring with a permanent marker (you cannot see this part.
 
quattro said:
Watch that stuff with vinyl, it has a habit of sucking the plasticiser out of it, and the glue will turn back into a liquid leaving a stringy mess.
Click to expand...
Thats interesting. What product would you recommend to stick vinyl or rubber ?
 
cobraboy said:
Thats interesting. What product would you recommend to stick vinyl or rubber ?
Click to expand...

Contact glues made from SBR resins are the worst for it, like most aerosol adhesives. Neoprenes aren't as bad but still do it, like most hand applied contact adhesives. Strangely Dunlop 1358 (Neoprene) was specified by Rover and Jaguar for decades for applying vinyl roofs, but then the glue was applied to the back of the vinyl which had a very good cotton scrim on it which did act as a barrier.

When applying to the face of the vinyl as in this case, the reaction will happen, and the hotter it gets the faster it will happen.

Contact type adhesives based on Polyurethane (Bostik 3206) or a nitrile such as Alpha 1588 do not steal plasticiser. My company does one called Tradegrip PVC which is a polyurethane. Even with this, bonding to old dashboards will always be difficult because of the condition of them.

Thats just for vinyl, rubbers have their own problems :) especially EDPM :oops:
 
Hi
i used the Alpha
I have used previously on other restorations , i haven’t had any problems
hope that helps
 
Many of the Alpha range of products are made in a more traditional way from others and are exceptionally good at what they do.
 
Great thanks.
I have issues glueing sheet rubber onto alloy sheet, this also has to cope with moderate heat, sometimes it comes orf.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top