Custom Anti Roll Bar- Cheap opportunity!

That bonnet scoop is wicked! Did you make it yourself, or is it a transplant off of another vehicle?
I've had the Classeparts ARB fitted for three and a half years now. Probably the single best modification I've done to my car. Having also fitted stiffer springs, adjustable shocks and poly bushes, I can't say what effect it would have had on it's own, but altogether the handling is markedly improved. The blue meanie stays flat in the corners, even through tight 'S's, no more nausea-induced wallowing.
For what it's worth, the 'radiusing' (?) on my bar is longer than yours, Cobraboy.
 
Hi Mark they are 24.00 mm.

Yes I found it hard to get suitable pictures that reflect the angle of the transition, it is so gradual that it makes the 24mm bar look deceptively thin.
I really think you need such a long gradual transition, talking to Mal at By'Gone he told me that they had initial bars snap, these bars are re-hardened after manufacture, cant remember what the exact material alloy mix was but remember at the time being impressed with the material used and the re-hardening process.
Looking at some of the bars that have been shown here I can see premature failure in their near futures, the forces at a sharp unequal transition will be huge when distributed over a only a few millimeters.
 
Thanks for the photos Graeme.
I have been measuring up with a 25mm pipe spaced and centred on my standard bar, sliding to see how much clearance could be had. Of course the peugeot bar which I'm collecting from my brother today, is also 24mm and I had a feeling it could fit under the top mount, it was the clearance behind on the vertical part of the mount I was concerned about. Hence my idea to use the transition in that area.
From your photos that isn't necessary and the hex can certainly be as short as practically possible.
I've been thinking about re heat treating and electroless nickel plating mine after machining.
I'm not sure you can heat treat something again though? Or just a localised area, ie the machined ends?
Jim
 
You would certainly need to de-temper the ends to be able to machine them, hardened steel is not fun on a mill or a lathe, after machining you would need to re-temper the ends. The same would apply for an un-tempered to tempered transition I would think for metal fatigue but perhaps I am being too fussy.
 
Would pay to do a little research as to how much hardening you need, my guess is that spring steel requires a particular level of hardening dependent on the alloy content, too hard and the bar may be too brittle.
 
Hi,

We had no issues machining the 306 bar in the state that it was removed from the donor car in. We didn't do any post machining heat treatment, the bar was WELL tested and as long as it is well radiused it should be fine.

Tim
 
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Yes need your considered review! These really are a must have item, whether 24 or 25mm
 
The considered review from testing in many and varied conditions will I am afraid be in the future, remember the car is a barn find and has been off the road since 1984. The tyres are old and hard, all of the bushes are old and hard, its a wonder it keeps going at all TBH.
As a stand alone fitment to a stock car is it worth it - hell yes ! Does the car understeer, hell yes ! ( it did anyway )
Any other additions like new bushes, uprated springs, dampers, wheels, tyres are only going to help, but I feel that none of these are going to provide such a quantum leap forward as the arb.
Time to stop pontificating, just go and buy one - its only 130 quid ! that's not even a good week's fodder at Tesco !
 
Well I'm in Cornwall for the next week if anyone can source me one I'll take it....

And is the understeer really any worse in real terms or do the normal, self-imposed limits on speed into a corner simply not apply without the roll and you are simply faster than you think?
 
Well I'm in Cornwall for the next week if anyone can source me one I'll take it....
Ermmmm.......... last I checked they had phones in Cornwall.
You phone the geezer, he makes one, its ready when you get back !
Of course I am faster into a corner - (a) because I am testing it and (b) because there is less roll, so there is more confidence.
I can feel the outside tyre tucking under, I cant put any more air in, I am at 30psi and the tyres are crap.

That's all folks I'm onto the next thing now.
 
I can't imagine 'cheap opportunity' getting much better than £130 delivered.
Actions speak louder than words - ordering mine tomorrow (when Steve's back @ work)

Mark.
 
Exactly Mark, this was the aim of the whole thing and it's now been achieved!
If there wasn't the option to machine my own I would certainly have ordered one at that price.
So the options in the UK are currently:
Classeparts bar £300+
Steve's £130 bar
Source and machine a Peugeot 306 rear bar (under £100, I'll let you know exactly how much as soon as mine has been machined)

So if you just want to place an order go with Steve's bar.
If you're on a tight budget like I am the most cost effective option is the Peugeot, but will take more work on your part

Jim
 
corazon said:
Exactly Mark, this was the aim of the whole thing and it's now been achieved!
If there wasn't the option to machine my own I would certainly have ordered one at that price.
So the options in the UK are currently:
Classeparts bar £300+
Steve's £130 bar
Source and machine a Peugeot 306 rear bar (under £100, I'll let you know exactly how much as soon as mine has been machined)

So if you just want to place an order go with Steve's bar.
If you're on a tight budget like I am the most cost effective option is the Peugeot, but will take more work on your part

Jim
Click to expand...

Hi Jim,
A few years ago there were a dozen small engineering shops near me - unfortunately - all long gone.
If they were still around I might have gone the same route as you.

Mark.
 
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Phones are still linked with witchcraft in Cornwall I'll 'ave 'eee know. I emailed Steve, I'm waiting for a reply, if this gets found out, it'll be the wicker man for me.

I'm thinking any re-machined Pug bar isn't going to be any cheaper than Steve's anyway, the cost isn't the materials, its the labour and machine time.
 
Well my bar was £30, and I didn't even haggle or try to get it any cheaper which I'm sure you could.
If machining a couple of hexes into a bar was going to cost £100 I wouldn't be doing it.
The guy I used for machining my vented front discs charged me around £50 for the pair iirc. That included enlarging the centre bore and redrilling pcd to suit the Rover hub as an example.
Some lucky people have their own milling/lathe facilities at home of course...
Jim
 
Hi,

I think the original objective of the post/thread has been met, which is great there are now a number of options for people to follow depending on their own situations/talents/budgets etc…. Access to cheap (free) machining (as well as 2 Peugeot ABRs in corner of garage from previous projects) took us down the road of making our own, this is a slightly more involved route as Jim says but could be of interest to the budget minded. Steve’s bar appears the path of least resistance so I fully expect it to be a popular one.

Now how about a thread trying to develop some rear springs to complement the new bar ;)

Tim
 
Kman1600 said:
Hi,

I think the original objective of the post/thread has been met, which is great there are now a number of options for people to follow depending on their own situations/talents/budgets etc…. Access to cheap (free) machining (as well as 2 Peugeot ABRs in corner of garage from previous projects) took us down the road of making our own, this is a slightly more involved route as Jim says but could be of interest to the budget minded. Steve’s bar appears the path of least resistance so I fully expect it to be a popular one.

Now how about a thread trying to develop some rear springs to complement the new bar ;)

Tim
Click to expand...

Well put Tim.

Mark.
 
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