Clutch pedal height.

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#1
Pull back the carpet and underlay and set the brake pedal height between the bottom of the pedal and the floor to 6 & 7/8"
Set the clutch pedal level with the brake. This is done on the threaded rod into the master cylinder (under the bonnet on the 3500S).
Push the clutch operating arm rearward until the release bearing touches the pressure plate and make sure the arm is one spline forward from vertical. Remove the arm and move it on the splines if it's not, and take care not to drop the nut in the bellhousing.
Pull back the slave cylinder boot. Adjust the pushrod so that the piston is about 1" away from the circlip. (Pedal at rest)
Wind the stop bolt all the way in. (Thats the one in the footwell.)
Then get someone to slowly depress the pedal as you look at the piston in the slave. What you need to get is the piston just touching the circlip when the pedal is on the stop, and you achieve this by adjusting the pushrod each time just before the pedal is depressed.
Once you get to the point that putting your foot on the clutch down to the stop makes the piston touch the circlip in the slave, lock the nut on the pushrod.
Then wind the stop bolt up one turn, and lock it with the nut.
Depress the pedal again and make sure there is at least 25thou clearance between the piston and the circlip in the slave.
If not wind the stop bolt up a little at a time.
 
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jp928

Well-Known Member
#3
MMMM. Some hints on the practical issues involved would be useful . The car is up in the air enough that I can roll under on a creeper (and I aint thin!), but I am blowed if I can find a way to measure the piston to circlip distance. That would involve removing the pushrod and the cylinder boot, then replacing the push rod, at least. If the operating lever fixing bolt loses its nut into the bellhousing could you not retrieve it by removing the lower bellhousing cover plate? Going to have to look into this as my clutch pedal feel is wrong, but pedal height seems in spec.
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#5
The car is up in the air enough that I can roll under on a creeper (and I aint thin!), but I am blowed if I can find a way to measure the piston to circlip distance. That would involve removing the pushrod and the cylinder boot, then replacing the push rod, at least.
You guess the 1" away starting point, you could stick a piece of rod in there with the pedal at rest to give a measurement for the starting point. In most cases it's too far into the cylinder anyway, then repeatedly depress the pedal shortening the rod every time until the piston just touches the circlip with the pedal down. If you want to know when the piston is getting very close to the circlip, put your thinnest feeler gauge blade in behind the circlip and if it gets nipped when the pedal is down then you're really close. There's no need to remove anything, unless the pushrod adjuster is seized.


If the operating lever fixing bolt loses its nut into the bellhousing could you not retrieve it by removing the lower bellhousing cover plate?
There isn't a cover plate on the 4 pots, and on the V8 I doubt that a 5/16" UNF nut would squeeze through between the ring gear teeth and the bellhousing.
 
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