BW65 auto gearbox does not shift to third gear on Rover P6 3500

The grease nipple is there so that you can grease the sliding joint so that it doesn't seize up. The alignment arrow on that part is normally in line with the grease nipple.
 
PepijnWK said:
Peter there is no spring inside! Het is een as die over de spiebaan langer of korter kan worden. Dit is nodig om oneffenheden in de weg op te vangen.
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Okay then I understand the mechanism. Your dutch is perfect! That is more then just a few words :)
Maybe it was stuck because never touched before. Anyway i had to put the strap on it to get it free from the flange.
I could put some more grease in it maybe...
Next step will be according to your earlier description.
 
Peter Sampers said:
Okay then I understand the mechanism. Your dutch is perfect! That is more then just a few words :)
Maybe it was stuck because never touched before. Anyway i had to put the strap on it to get it free from the flange.
I could put some more grease in it maybe...
Next step will be according to your earlier description.
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Sorry mixed you up :)
 
Hi
I am back with my next moves. See attached pictures.
Is what i see here the so called governor?
By the way, when I removed the housing i received quite an oil bath. DId i remove too much?
What do I need to do next?
 

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That is the governor attached to the shaft. Slide the speedo drive gear off the shaft, and then remove the odd shaped cap/nut (shown at the bottom of the governor in your pics) and spring washer, and the governor will slide off the shaft as well. Then dismantle and inspect.

The large spring washer shouldn't be totally compressed flat, which it looks to be in your photo.

The oil bath is just a bonus. It may be that the car has been standing and the converter has drained back, raising the fluid level, or the front of the car is higher than the back.
 
Thanks again.
I didn't remove the governor yet, but i noticed that when i pull on the top side of the governor you can pull out some kind of valve (don't know how exactly you call it) for about 1 cm. When i pull it out sometimes it jumps back automatically and sometimes it sticks a little bit in the upper position. Don't know if that could mean something as well.

The car stands straight, but has now been standing still for a while again. That very likely explains the oil bonus :)
 
Peter Sampers said:
Thanks again.
i noticed that when i pull on the top side of the governor you can pull out some kind of valve (don't know how exactly you call it) for about 1 cm.
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That is the weight that operates the valve. It's a two stage valve that increases pressure built up from roadspeed to first trigger the 1-2 shift, and then allows pressure to increase again to trigger the 2-3 shift.


Peter Sampers said:
When i pull it out sometimes it jumps back automatically and sometimes it sticks a little bit in the upper position. Don't know if that could mean something as well.
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It shouldn't stick.


Peter Sampers said:
The car stands straight, but has now been standing still for a while again. That very likely explains the oil bonus :)
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I hope the oil was nice and clean for you!
 
Didn't remove the governor yet. I am still recovering from the oil bath....
Couple of questions
-The large spring washer shouldn't be totally compressed flat you said as it actually is on the pictures. How far should it be compressed? Is there a kind of guideline for it?

-Do you know if a governor of an auto BW35 is the same as for the auto BW65?
 
I think you should have a look in the WM about the spring washer as I'm sure it is mentioned in there specifically.

I think that RV8 BW35 and 65 governors of that type are interchangeable, but don't quote me on that.
 
Remember that the governor needs to go the right way around on the shaft. It will fit either way, but the fluid exhaust needs to be at the rear to lubricate the speedo gear and the rear bearing.
 
Hi
Here is a picture of the old governor. As you can see it sometimes tends to stick, but not all the time. THe valve moves a bit harsh and feels a little bit rough, when it moves. It does not move very smooth, but it moves. Don't know if that could cause the problem of not shifting to TOP.
I ordered a new governor exactly the same from the UK, which i will build into the gearbox.
Question about the remaining oil. Would you recommend to completely drain the gearbox and refresh with new oil or add new oil to the currently remaining oil in the gearbox?
 

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Attached you find pictures of the new governor. Hope this one helps to solve the problem. The governor I ordered is from an auto BW35, but as i can see it is interchangeable with the old one from the BW65. At least the movement of the valve is smooth and doesn't tend to stick. Couldn't find in the WM how far I should flatten the spring washer or any torque value for the nut. What I did so far is that I tightened the governor so that it doesn't have any slack on the shaft anymore, and the spring washer is still not fully compressed.
 

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If you don't have any concerns about the condition of the oil then I'd be happy to just top up to the level with new. Replacing the fluid isn't always a good thing to do anyway.

I don't know of a torque figure for the governor retaining nut, (I've never looked), but it should be tight, without totally compressing the spring washer.

Time now to reassemble, refill, roadtest, and hope.....
 
And the moment of truth was there. Still no TOP gear.
All runs fine although I notice that the shifting from 1-2 I need to release the throttle a bit to shift.
Will adjust the cable a bit more, but to be honest my hope is a little bit gone.
There must be something else wrong in the gearbox.
 
Screw the adjuster upwards into the bracket and see what happens.

I have heard (and read in the WM of shift valves sticking, but I've never experienced that myself, as they're immersed in the fluid all the time they don't stick.

Are you absolutely sure that you are pulling away in FIRST and changing into SECOND, and not something else? What happens if you pull away in "1", manually move the lever to "2", and than manually move the lever to "D"? What happens if you pull away in "2"?
 
When i put it in '1' it stays in 1. And brakes on the engine in 1. The gearbox makes a kind of whining sound in 1st gear.
When i put it in '2' it behaves as if it is in '1, but no braking on the engine. The whining sound is there. So it pulls away in 1st gear and stays there. That also applies when I put it manually from 1 to 2 when driving. it stays in 1st gear, but the braking on the engine disappears, when in 2. The whining sound is there.
When i put it in D it shifts from 1-2 and not further. In 2nd gear the whining sound is gone.
That is really how it behaves.
When i drive around 50 mph (80 km/h) the engine runs at about 2500 RPM
 
Peter Sampers said:
When i put it in '2' it behaves as if it is in '1, but no braking on the engine. The whining sound is there. So it pulls away in 1st gear and stays there.
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That's not correct. Pulling away with "2" selected, it should pull away in SECOND gear and stay there.
 
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