BW35/65 Checklist.

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#21
sagegreen said:
so, that means, If I drive POS 2 the Box can change the gear within POS 2 back to POS1, in the case of lower speed for example. WEll, I never noticed that. the only thing was, if I stopped because of a traffic light, it was possible to drive with POS 2 again after the lights went green. but I think, that is possible to all Auto-boxes (?)

I hope the technical inside of the 387 is the same / close to the common boxes like the known pre-code boxes. I orderd a good used spare BW35, precode 303, yellow plate. It should be no problem to fit the 303 into the NADA car?

Rover boxes should be SECOND gear only in the "2" position, so if you come to a stop with the lever in that position, it will pull away again in SECOND, and stay there, with no shifts. This is different to all other BW35's in other applications where "2" gives you 1-2 & 2-1. With those you haven't got SECOND gear start, which Rover wanted to retain. A 303 will bolt straight in in place of your mystery 387. Even though it's bound to have been interfered with since new, I have to say I'd love to have a look inside that 387.....
 
#22
. This is different to all other BW35's in other applications where "2" gives you 1-2 & 2-1. With those you haven't got SECOND gear start, which Rover wanted to retain. I have to say I'd love to have a look inside that 387.....[/quote]

1-2 & 2-1, like the early boxes (?) P R N D2 D1 L?
My box is now 300km away from me, but i will contact the guy who repair my 387 now. Maybe is doing some fotos from the inside of the 387. Do you have any wishes what he should photograph?

thank you
regards
Richard
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#23
PRND2D1L are different altogether, so comparing in this instance isn't worthwhile. The only thing about that selector pattern was that it operated in the same way over all vehicle makes.

There are so many differences across models that you'd have to take pics of pretty much everything, but I suppose to prove my theory he should see whether it's fitted with a range control valve.
 
#24
Hi Harvey,

Silly question but 8 litres is the capacity including filling the Torque converter or with out ? I can remember :oops:

I'm going to be changing the fliuld with AFT-G as havent done it in the 2yrs I've owend the car, to be honest it's the best BW35 I've had in a Rover so far but it's just starting to clunk into 1st when pulling up to stop, also when going into reverse, this is when its hot but I may have added a little to much fluid causing too much pressure as I understand, but also sometimes it'll go into 1st without any thump :?

Will check the kick down linkage as I understand this can be finely adjusted to stop the 'clunking into gears', it works well at presant so may just change fluid, clean filter first.

One question is do I drain when hot and does this drain the torque converter aswell ? or do I have to leave it for a while to let it fully drain, from memory its doesnt completely drain so end having excess New fluid from two new 4.5 ltrs plastic bottles, can't remember how much drains & how much stays in the torque converter , ideally I want to fully drain & replace all the fluid.

Thanks in advance, Damian
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#25
DamianZ28 said:
Hi Harvey,

Silly question but 8 litres is the capacity including filling the Torque converter or with out ? I can remember :oops:
That's total capacity including the converter and cooler.


DamianZ28 said:
I'm going to be changing the fliuld with AFT-G as havent done it in the 2yrs I've owend the car, to be honest it's the best BW35 I've had in a Rover so far but it's just starting to clunk into 1st when pulling up to stop, also when going into reverse, this is when its hot but I may have added a little to much fluid causing too much pressure as I understand, but also sometimes it'll go into 1st without any thump :?
Too much fluid won't cause any rise in pressure. Intermittant harsh engagement and 2-1 downshift could be either the throttle or the kickdown cable sticking every so often.


DamianZ28 said:
Will check the kick down linkage as I understand this can be finely adjusted to stop the 'clunking into gears', it works well at presant so may just change fluid, clean filter first.
If it has DEXRON in it then changing it is a good idea, but if it's the proper fluid and clean and clear I'm not sure what you hope to achieve by changing it. If it's filthy dirty then remember that the contamination is suspended friction particles, and if that's the case you run the risk of finding that it slips with new fluid. Correctly setting the kickdown cable will remove any clonks from the box, but it won't help if they're coming from elsewhere in the drivetrain.


DamianZ28 said:
One question is do I drain when hot and does this drain the torque converter aswell ? or do I have to leave it for a while to let it fully drain, from memory its doesnt completely drain so end having excess New fluid from two new 4.5 ltrs plastic bottles, can't remember how much drains & how much stays in the torque converter , ideally I want to fully drain & replace all the fluid.
Drain it when hot, but be careful, as it does get very hot. If you leave it draining the most you'll ever get out is what's in the box, and what drains back from the top half of the converter, you'll never get it all out. If you want to do a complete change the only way to be fairly certain you've done so is with at least 4 drain/refills. The only way to be totally certain is overhaul the box and converter.
 
#26
Hi Harvey,

Thanks for the quick response!, one of the reasons to change the fluid is that I have no record of when it was changed before I bought the car, although it still looks clean, certianly not burnt.

I think I'll check the kick down linkage first, throttle linkage was done a short while ago with all the linkage bushes replaced.

Thanks again, Damian
 
#27
Hi Harvey,
maybe you have an advice for me.I am running out of ideas :D

so, my BW35 is back in the car for 2 weeks now, (as I reported, the BW 35 was at service by the Rover Club of Austria. until now, everything works fine. Yesterday, i took a longer testdrive on a country road - first route was uphills with 50mphs and more the BW 35 works fine,then I drove a winding & smaller country side road (up hills) (engine warm, choke pushed in)- suddenly (@30 mph speed) the car lost power in "D" the speed was down to ca. 5 mph. I stopped, pushed the accl. pedal again and - the car moved forwards but still with a minimum of speed, I took the reverse gear, which works correct and with full power, drove back a few meters, shift to 1st gear and - everything was okay. The same thing happend on evening in the city (cold engine, choke pulled out) Again, the car lost power until pressing the accl. pedal- no drive for a few seconds, then the power returned back, then again, no power for a few seconds, (speed ca. 10 mph) that happend 3 times until i arrived home. I noticed, that only position "2" did not loss power.

well the same problem I do still have in the morning - after the car parked more than 10 hours. Choke pulled out, Reverse or front gear switched, the car does not get enough power, it is lazy (sluggish) - just after a few minutes of driving everthing works.
I checked ATF fluid = okay

what do you think?
is this still an Auto box problem?
could this be a wrong adjusted linkage?

or is it a wrong adjusted carb?
an electr. fuel pump (bendix) problem (too much fuel or to less fuel into the carbs?
an electric problem (weak wires)

I hope, it is not the BW35 again :)

thank you,
Richard
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#28
sagegreen said:
I drove a winding & smaller country side road (up hills) (engine warm, choke pushed in)- suddenly (@30 mph speed) the car lost power in "D" the speed was down to ca. 5 mph. I stopped, pushed the accl. pedal again and - the car moved forwards but still with a minimum of speed, I took the reverse gear, which works correct and with full power, drove back a few meters, shift to 1st gear and - everything was okay. The same thing happend on evening in the city (cold engine, choke pulled out) Again, the car lost power until pressing the accl. pedal- no drive for a few seconds, then the power returned back, then again, no power for a few seconds, (speed ca. 10 mph) that happend 3 times until i arrived home. I noticed, that only position "2" did not loss power.
Before getting in too deep it would be helpful if you could clarify from the above whether you mean:

A) You try to accelerate, but the engine has inadequate power to accellerate the car and you are losing roadspeed during that.

or

B) You press the throttle and there's an increase in engine RPM, without any significant increase in roadspeed.

Depending on which of the above it is will point you in the direction of either the engine or the gearbox.
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#30
stina said:
This is your area Harvey i know , but are the brakes binding :?:
That could account for the lack of forward progress, although with a 4 disc set up I'd think that it would be exactly the same in reverse, and if it was the case, and bad enough to slow the car that amount, the plumes of smoke coming off the brakes might be a bit obvious. If he picks option "A" then that could well be something to rule out right at the start.
 
#31
Before getting in too deep it would be helpful if you could clarify from the above whether you mean:

A) You try to accelerate, but the engine has inadequate power to accellerate the car and you are losing roadspeed during that.

or

B) You press the throttle and there's an increase in engine RPM, without any significant increase in roadspeed.

Hallo Harvey and Stina.

first to point a.) YES
b.) no, there was no over-touring(hauling) engine.
c.) the car went actually throug the MOT in August (in Austria it is called "Pickerl", it means sticker :)
brakes are perfect.


For 3 days now i took testdrives under heavy rain, city rush hour, all equipment on like A/C, all lights ...wiper, electric fan, int. lamps. then the same route uphills and downhills on sunny october days again, small roads through the forrest with heavy corners and breaking points, (I felt very english in this moments) and...nothing happend!!!!!!!

Everthings works fine....I have no idea what was the reason before - i took the same roads, same & more speeds - 2 times, I hunted my car with ca. 80 mph uphills - downhills - and what happend? my car was cheering because he liked it. The engine, the auto box (and me) where smiling like honeymoon.

well, I am sorry If i took your time causing my problem - I hope this problem is history now - if not, I am feeling free to write you again :) thanks to you and all of the classicroverforum. The only thing I can tell you - (but you all know it) the Rover P6 is still the best automobile in the world, even after 40 + years :)
regards
Richard
 
#35
Hi - so I had the car warmed up and the engine running, pulled the auto box dipstick out - bone dry no oil on it. Tried again in the morning when not started up - oil to the line on the dipstick. Then I spotted writing on the dipstick which I haven't noticed before that said 'Check when cold' So do I really need to put any in ?? If so how much?

Cheers Steve - 2200 Auto 1975 - just passed MoT !!!!!
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#37
sagegreen said:
Bw 35 was removed and wil sent to an P6 guy, (see my posting for this case on the elctric section on this site. But, I am a little bit confused, because the plate on the BW 35 shows, colourcode = yellow, precode = 387. could 387 a NADA factory-fittment box? Is it a a Rover P6B box? I did not find anything about 387 on the web. could it be an BW65 box?

Just an update on this, as I (and others) had speculated on the possible origins of the 387 Series. Just to prove how rarely I look at the WM (it's probably the first time since the original thread was ongoing) that while looking for something else today I came across the answer. When the 267 Series was introduced (which was done to make P5B and P6B boxes totally interchangeable), at that point any exchange box returned to the factory for reconditioning was rebuilt to 267 spec regardless of what spec it was previously, and all of those rebuilt boxes were given a 387 Series dataplate.
 
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