BW 65 leaking at sump gasket problem.

ButterFingers

ButterFingers

Active Member
Hi there,
my automatic gearbox, a BW65, is leaking at the sump gasket. I have removed each bolt and coated it with goo and re-tightened it. It stemmed the flow for a day or so , but now is leaking again from the actual cork gasket join.

Q: I think that the only way to cure the leak is to remove the sump and install a new gasket.

In doing so, is there anything that I should know before removing the sump?
Any springs to jump out at me or ball bearings to drop to the floor? or anything that is going to fall out?

If I buy a gasket, does it come in a "Kit" with some type of filter arrangement.?
Can I buy it locally or is it a send to England (Wins) event?
Peter
 
When the sump is off you need to make sure that the gasket mounting face is flat, they tend to dome upwards around the bolt holes and not clamp the gasket correctly. Nothing should fall out when you remove it. There should be a magnet in there that you can remove clean and refit. Don't use any sealant, only a smear of vaseline to hold the gasket in place if necessary. Filters are all the same on the BW65, and should be available where you are. When refitting the dipstick tube, lightly screw into the sump, fit the top mounting bracket, before finally tightening the sump fitting. If you tighten the sump fitting first and pull the tube over to fit the bracket you'll crack the sump. This may be the cause of you're current leak.
 
Thanks Hervey6 for the advice, I will see what I can source locally for the gasket and filter, then tackle the job, and keep you informed as to the progress and what I find.
Peter
 
I´ve done this recently, but did not ask Harvey, so the procedure with the dipstick :confused:, I will check again....
Maybe worth to check the kickdown cable also, when you take off the sump. Mine was hanging on two wires only at the carb-linkage. Just have a visual check at this point or maybe decouple it from the linkage and try if it runs smoothly. And (done this after reading answers from Harvey in other threads) use a pan when draining the sump and check amount what was drained. Fill up exactly this rate with new oil (which is only a part of the total volume), guessing your level was correct before starting this work.
 
Auto gearbox update:
Today removed the sump and only 3 liters came out, it looks red and reasonably clean, but I will replace with fresh ATF . What brand do you recommend for a BW 65?
What is the capacity of the BW65 in liters?
My workshop manual only cover the B W35 so I'm working blind.
I have sourced a gasket kit (a la jag) from Autopro , a local parts shop, and it comes with a rubber gasket instead of the usual cork one, ( better product I think) and a internal filter the same shape as the metal one
that came out.
Inspected the kick-down cable and it looks fine and secure.

P3192978.JPG P3192979.JPG P3192976.JPG P3192977.JPG
The BW 35 has a drain plug in the pan but the 65 only the filler dipstick for draining, as you can see in the picture. The replacement filer looks like a plastic clone, from the picture in the parts shop. The proof is in the pudding when I collect on Tuesday.....
Peter
 
harveyp6 said:
Brand isn't important as long as it meets Ford spec M2C-33F or G.



That cable looks very slack, there will be a lot of throttle movement before the cam starts moving.
Click to expand...
how do I tighten it Harvey, is it a question of just taking up the slack?
Peter
 
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ButterFingers said:
how do I tighten it, is it a question of just taking up the slack?
Peter
Click to expand...
Tighten the cable by moving the adjuster at the top downwards until the slack disappears and any further adjustment would start to move the cam itself. You're looking for the cam to start moving as soon as the throttle starts opening.
 
update: I adjusted the kickdown cable as advised and the slack is now taken just out.
I took 3 liters out so put 3 liters back in of Castorl type F. The dipstick says check cold, so tomorrow I will start the car and shift it through the range and back to park , then check the dipstick? is this procedure sufficent to check the oil Harvey P6?
Peter

P3212980.JPG the aftermarket kit for the BW65
from Autopro, AU $19-00.
.P3212981.JPG old and new filter, note that
the new one has a cork gasket attached.
P3212983.JPG old and the new.
the new one is in rubber, I think better than cork..
P3212984.JPG the identification of the kit for others
in Australia.
 
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Hi Peter, I changed the sump gasket on my BW type 35 a couple of years ago and as Harvey says the flange must be flat! beware the rubber (neoprene I think) gaskets, I had 2 of these fail within a week or so of refitting them! I didn't over tighten the bolts or anything like that (I've had my car for nearly 42 years now) both the neoprene gaskets had split between the bolt holes, don't know if there was a reaction with the fluid but I have now fitted the cork gaskets again with no further leaks! at least not from the sump (I have heard that the type 35 has a nickname of the "wetbox"!!??)
Best Regards DAV8
Dave
 
hi there Dave,
Thank you for your reply. my box is a BW65, so dont know if your problem affects the 65 as well.
Wins (UK) sell gaskets and there is a rubber one available that they have had manufactured themselves and say its an improvement on the cork one.
Has anyone fitted the rubber Wins type gasket on BW35 or 65 auto boxes?

Peter
 
Hi Peter, I did get all my gaskets from Wins (rubber and cork), from your photos they look very much the same, I did think that the rubber should be better but as I have said both failed, so, I now consider that when originally designed by BW they used cork so that's where I am now, also looking back the cork has given me very few problems, perhaps Harvey will advise (incredible amount of knowledge on the P6) I have used in the past an additive (Wynn's) which I think Harvey will advise against but again with no problems (I tried this stuff to try and prevent the leaks from other areas) I have travelled about 100,000 miles on this box and still running.
Best Regards DAV8
Dave
 
Hi there Dave,
I inspected the auto gearbox today and found a puddle of oil under it.
The NEW rubber gasket has failed, I noticed that where I had tightened up the bolts , the gasket had bulged out at the bolt hole and the bit in-between was flush with the side of the gearbox.
I have slackened the bolts so that it does not bulge, and hoping that it may reduce the seepage? o_O
It looks like I now have the same problem as you, so I will have to order a cork gasket from Wins and drain and refit it, then see what happens.
Its annoying having to do a simple job twice, regardless of the initial cost, just ...........:(
Peter
 
Sounds like the sump pan (ok, it´s more a cover) is bended now. Forget fitting new gasket before you are not sure, that pan/cover is straight again. Regardless cork or rubber, sorry to say that, looks like "overtighted" and/or not started from the middle screws.
 
did not know about starting from the middle?
Maybe if I slackened all off a bit and then re-tightened from the middle?
 
it´s more or less like tightening a cylinder head, you start with a screw in the middle, then the opposite one then the opposite next one to the first and....
sorry, for a German it´s sometimes not that easy to describe in common words.
But anyway, before you reinstall it with a new gasket (cork or rubber, I can see no difference here until the gasket itself fits correctly), check that the oil pan is straight. It´s a thin thing and bends very quickly.
Same procedure for the sump pan of the engine. But most important is torque. I use a small ratchet but always use it at the knob, not at the lever and only smooooth tighten it.
I use Hylomar Blue also, but´s that´s risky at a sump pan for an automatic box. Very few, because if sealant goes in it could block something in one of the many fine bores in an automatic box.
 
Hi, Just a point of note, don't use a sealant on cork or the rubber gaskets because it acts as a lubricant and makes it easier to squeeze the gasket out when tightening the fixings. As said hold the ratchet at the head or use a palm ratchet or find the shortest spanner you can so there's not too much leverage.

Colin
 
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