Buyer's advice

ccaenen

ccaenen

New Member
I'm on the lookout to exchange my MGB GT for a P6 3500. Unfortunately a MGB is just not practical for a young family.

I've read that the body panels are bolted which I actually prefer but it's also easy to hide any misery. I'm going to check a few examples in the next coming days and therefore I'd like some advice regarding things to check. I've read the following:

- Remove back seat cushions to look underneath.
- Look underneath the booth carpets.
- Check under the wheel arches.
- Check the connection points of the suspension.

What else should I check? What are typical rust spots for these cars? What should I check underneath the car? (Please note; I probably will have to jack up the car and c
 
Speaking from painful and costly experience you absolutely must persuade the owner to let you look under the carpets running along the inside of the cabin where the floor meets the vertical panels i.e the run of the inner sills. This may involve pulling up said carpet areas and if they haven't been inspected previously they may well be stuck down with adhesive but insist on looking anyway they usually fold back into place. Check also where the boot floor meets the vertical sides. Bottom of front wings and tops of rear wings under quarter panels often rust and rear door shuts. Good luck.
 
Hi c!
(Cor? Presuming that Caenen is your family name...)

- Do look thoroughly in and around the heater box, and its "underside" from inside the car, where the (warm) air for the footwell enters the interior.-
There are two water holes on top of the box, beneath the grille unter the bonnet.
These lead THROUGH the box at a nearly right angle to OUTSIDE tubes going down through the engine bay to the floor.
Should the inner "elbows", the short right angle rubber tube pieces, be perished, water will collect at the bottom of the heater box and eventually seep through into the base unit (!!!!!RUST!!!!) and interior.

- Take a good look at the fuse box for burnt clamps.

- Coolant may drip from the pipe that runs lengthwise under the inlet manifold.

- Window seals are a bit of a hassle when not up to the job.
The "window scrapers" have to be ordered from Australia and the ones for the quarter lights are no longer available.

- If you want an automatic gear box, check the fluid thoroughly. Read in this forum what it should (not) look like.

- The rear calipers and brake pads are said to be a pain to replace, only topped by the dismantling of the front springs.

- The wipers, wiper mechanism, wiper engine, park switch and delay should work.
Well.
Sort of.
Partially.

BE AWARE HOW SMALL THE INTERIOR OF THE CAR IS, especially the rear seat. An MGB might be bigger, I reckon...

Take time and maybe even consider buying one in the UK!!!
Should you want to take a look at our Jimmy, a P6 that has taken up quite some time and money and STILL looks a bit ... knackered - feel free!

(Ik weet niet hoe ver weg je zit van Roermond of Venlo...)
De groeten

stefan
(Oh: BEWARE of P6s that look immaculate. Some of them have contained, as I recall, "6000 pounds of welding" ... )

(From above club buyers guide :
"On cars with power steering the wiper motor can work only when it wants to" -
what's the connection?)
 
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"The "window scrapers" have to be ordered from Australia and the ones for the quarter lights are no longer available."

Not available at all any more from Scott's.

"BE AWARE HOW SMALL THE INTERIOR OF THE CAR IS, especially the rear seat. An MGB might be bigger, I reckon..."

Nah.
 
^^^ They do look good. Did you remove/have the frames out already or did you fit them with the frames in-situ?
 
Thank you.
The doors were complete. I used a liberal coating of face moisturiser to make them slippy, a tip given to me by a windscreen fitter.

And no I did not get caught by management ;)
 
Got mine from Scotts and fitted them without any lube, facial or not.
They do look and work pretty good, and I did not even know that the originals have metal in them ... .
 
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