Break in Woes (New Unpleasant Noise)

amcdonald

Active Member
Hello

Before too long I will be doing a "how NOT to" post about my reconditioned engine install, but before that tale of muppetry and misery is unleashed, I have the latest and most horrible sounding noise yet encountered during the process. After a few sessions of breaking in (stationary) and generally messing around / timing / carbs etc, the engine was sounding quite okay. Then I noticed a transmission type noise which was a little worrying. THEN forget that, a new and worse noise appeared from the top end of the motor, probably front near distributor - I am sure this only just materialized after some time running the motor. I recorded a couple of audio files from around the distributor area which seems like around the sort of region it is coming from. But it's always hard to tell. Those are attached, I had to put the two audio recordings in a zip file so that has to be downloaded and extracted I am afraid.

I have a rattly noise that is not there at idle but comes on maybe at 1500-2000rpm, and seems to come on a tad more also when the rpm's initially drop after lifting off the gas. It is definitely not supposed to be there. In my minds eye I am imagining a loose chain.

If I have to disassemble this, I might lose the will to live. I spent a fortune and this was professionally rebuilt by 215 experts D&D, so it is basically brand new. It has 10W-40 in it, per D&D recommendations.

Any suggestions?

Adrian
 

Attachments

  • Rattling Noise.zip
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I am sure we all feel your pain. If the engine was built by a company and you installed it and started it following their instructions then I would refer the matter to them. This may mean either arranging for them to visit the car, or you trailering it over to them.
 
It has 10W-40 in it, per D&D recommendations.

If it's under guarantee, then you have little choice to run that oil, but it's not what I would have in it, so I'd be getting back on to the people who built the engine. Only thing I would do is eliminate aything external to the engine that could be causing it first.
 
I shipped it from California to Michigan, instead of using a local shop who would not be that expert in these motors so there are geographic challenges too that rule out using the rebuild shop. After over a decade since the project started, it’s a bit frustrating if the bugger needs to be stripped. Cue removal of all the nifty painted accessories etc etc etc
 
The running in oil I have been supplied is 10W-30 which was a bit of a surprise. I have spoken to V8D about it and they assure me it's the best one to use just don't misuse the engine with it in, but then you should be driving it carefully when running in anyway.

Have you spoken to the builders about these noises?
 
I emailed. There’s not too much that they can do though really. I expect I will have to take it to local shop and get more wallet surgery. Happy days.
 
I think I would be taking the rocker covers off and having a good look at what I can see under there. Check if there's any oil to start with and anything obviously wrong, before starting it.
 
Hello

As suggested, I went back and checked the ancillaries. Unbelievably, I stuck a spanner in between the viscous fan blades and revved it up again and the noise disappeared. The Rover gods were smiling on me today for Easter. It's a bit surprising as the noise was pretty horrible in the flesh and sounded very much like metal grinding and thrashing. It's always surprising how noise can turn out. I am still left with a mystery transmission whine but that could be a vibration so I am ahead for the day.

Highlight of the whole rebuild thing is the scoop air mix valve flap is working..........love that

People might notice the AED and manual choke. I thought the AED looks too cool to remove. I just plugged up all the passageways with black gasket maker. Ditto temperature compensators. Came out nice I reckon, sponsored by Eastwood Paints (or should be).

IMG_0017.JPG
 
I had a Land Rover once that had a noise coming from the clutch area and I was convinced a gearbox bearing was on the way out. Sitting in the car the noise came from the tunnel area and opening the bonnet the noise came from the back of the engine area. It was only after bending down in front of the car to pick something on the floor that I realised that I could hear the noise through the radiator from the front of the engine, it was the water pump bearing. All the bodywork and radiator cowling was "reflecting" the noise to the rear.
 
Pleased to hear you've found the cause of that cringe inducing noise, Adrian. Your engine bay looks very clean and tidy. Really nice work.
Do you have the wire mesh cover and large rubber gasket for on top of the air box snorkel? You're also missing a second, slightly larger diameter outer flexible hose for the warm air feed to the underside of the air filter can. It is the same sort of 'concertina-ing' (!?) flexible hose. When fitted, it conceals the shiny metal pipe with the 90 degree bend, on the left in your picture. I imagine it is intended to help insulate the warmth, although I don't know if it makes any real difference to functionality. Lastly, shouldn't there also be a metal 'finger guard' on the alternator, covering the fan blades? Sorry to be a pedantic, picky 'rivet-counter'. Not wanting to detract from your high quality restoration.
 
def nice engine bay . not seen that sort of air intake box either and love idea it gets cool air from under and not warm air from across intake manifold as standard cars. not sure what to make of those 'extra' pipes to inlet elbows / breather pipes /rocker covers. must be a reason for that mod I guess.
 
def nice engine bay . not seen that sort of air intake box either and love idea it gets cool air from under and not warm air from across intake manifold as standard cars. not sure what to make of those 'extra' pipes to inlet elbows / breather pipes /rocker covers. must be a reason for that mod I guess.
Classicalgreen, that air intake box is the US export set-up. It gets cold air from the big scoop on the top of the bonnet, and warm air from a collector over the right hand exhaust manifold, via the flexi hose. There is a flap in the 'snorkel' and a bi-metal gadget concealed inside the air filter box, and some vacuum magic going on to mix the two air supplies.
 
Hello Mr T

I do have the meshy thing so no lost points there. Although the rubber seal is not perfect.

I totally forgot about that silvery outer hose. I have not seen it since about 2007 as it was the first thing in the bin. Now I will have a think about a replacement.

Finger guard - I have no clue about that but now I am curious I will google some images.

On the subject of the ridiculous plethora of rubber hose, that’s because you can’t get the right kit any more and I wanted to keep the temp compensator so a bunch of extra nonsense was added to tee it all off. It also makes the engine look more exotic than it actually is for unaware US viewers.

Finally, i decided to switch out the oil for 20W-50 after all this noise panic. I need to replace the (brand new) and 100% duff expensive oil pressure gauge sender I got from UK supplier anyway......grrr
 
I totally forgot about that silvery outer hose.

It isn't silver, or at least the one I used to have fitted wasn't. It is just like the black hose you've got now, just a bit bigger diameter, to fit the metal 'cups' at either end, and held in place with big wire 'C' clips in the slots provided.
 
Hmmm. I definitely had it. Maybe I am confusing it with ducting type stuff. But as this thing has been a decade off the road it could have been bright pink for all I can properly remember. I do have the C clips, amazingly, considering my propensity to chuck stuff out way too quickly.......
 
Seems theres two types of P6er. Those who dispose of things they later realise they need, and those who hoard loads of bits'n'pieces for years and years, even risking marital strife by piling boxes of spares in their home. I'm of the latter variety. :rolleyes:
 
Looks great.
Couldn't help noticing the lack of dipstick in the transmission filler tube. Hope you replaced it before driving............
 
The NADA does not have a filler tube, or at least not one that’s accessible. It’s a bit of a pain. Actually what you see is the old dipstick tube that was taken out of the block (it broke) and recycled as a filler tube in the breather. So you have to drop in the fluid very slowly, but better than having to do it from underneath. I will have to find a cap as the dipstick is elsewhere. Maybe I will buy a new one.
 
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