Brake Master Cylinder Alternative

Steve

Member
Just about to sort my brakes out as its warmer, mistyped on eBay and got the Landrover section, plenty of Brake Master Cylinders for 1960's 70's that look just like the one on my 1975 2200 P6, but for a fraction (less than £20) of what the P6 specialists want to squeeze out of us. Whilst the rebuild kit I bought was only around £6, a whole new unit for not much more is attractive. Presumably for a basic unit Girling would have tried to use a standard one for a range of cars - forget that just remembered the rear calipers, however is there a chart somewhere showing alternative compatible parts for P6 but shared with other cars ??
 
You probably want a period Girling parts book. They’re usually on eBay, either as originals or scans.
 
You do need to be careful buying Land Rover parts. Prices are often too low to provide decent quality. At a minimum you'll need to strip down a master cylinder sold that cheap and clean out the swarf before risking it on the car. You might also find yourself replacing the seals with better quality ones or just chucking the whole thing in the bin in disgust. As a long-time Land Rover owner, I speak from bitter experience.
 
Another thing to look out for is the different specifications of the units. Just because they physically look the same, doesn't guarantee they are the same.
They will probably have different diameter master cylinders, and possibly different pressure ratios, too.
 
Genuine Girling parts will have the bore dia. cast on the side. but even with the same dia bore, there are then different flanges, boots, thread sizes for the pipes and actuator rods But I agree some of the cheap pattern parts are a disaster. If it gets to the point where P6 ones are not being made one will need to modify other applications or re-sleeve ones existing cylinders.
 
Get the master cylinder that you have sleeved in steel or brass, and put a new seal in it. There are lots of seal kits on eBay.
 
Always when have a single system, by very careful with buying from ebay or ali.

I have a master cylinder who is worn by rust, I have a lathe, so maybe make a sleeve for it, but machine the
cylinder itself I can not because it do not fit in the machine on a save way.

Reuse the old cylinders is always a good idea, and not trow them away.

regards
 
Yes, l only get cylinders reconditioned & sleeved now. Buying new is a lottery with the odds stacked against you.

Afcourse when we want we can use also other ones with some work, and the range rover seems to fit also.

I go look how I can sleeve them myself, looks like not so much work.

I do see the aluminium clutch master cylinder has no problems with this pitting.
 
Get an iron cylinder sleeved in stainless, common practice. No more pitting.

That is what i consider, and do it myself, I have a lathe.

But do the cylinder itself is difficult because it does not fit in a lathe, so I can use a cotter cnc drill for that, using 22 mm give me enough space to
machine the sleeve itself. need to be 22,020 a 22,040mm bigger and use the fridge and warm the cylinder to press it.

if it fails, I have tried.

Oke this cylinder, it is the slave cylinder from the booster is capped with a plastic plug, in the book I can not see if there is a ring in it to lock it, if not I can just press the piston out, someone know?

regadsDSCN5566[1].JPG
 
Last edited:
Oke this cylinder, it is the slave cylinder from the booster is capped with a plastic plug, in the book I can not see if there is a ring in it to lock it, if not I can just press the piston out, someone know?

That is not the slave cylinder for one of our Rovers. Where did that come from? The pushrod does not belong in the air control valve housing, so if that is how it comes...

Ron
 
That is not the slave cylinder for one of our Rovers. Where did that come from? The pushrod does not belong in the air control valve housing, so if that is how it comes...

Ron

It came from the booster.

This is example from the reserve booster I have in case of.

DSCN5565.JPG

And this one I am busy with. Painting and such.

DSCN5569.JPG
 
That is what i consider, and do it myself, I have a lathe.

But do the cylinder itself is difficult because it does not fit in a lathe, so I can use a cotter cnc drill for that, using 22 mm give me enough space to
machine the sleeve itself. need to be 22,020 a 22,040mm bigger and use the fridge and warm the cylinder to press it.

if it fails, I have tried.

Oke this cylinder, it is the slave cylinder from the booster is capped with a plastic plug, in the book I can not see if there is a ring in it to lock it, if not I can just press the piston out, someone know?

regadsView attachment 24174
The white plastic acts as a bearing to centre the pushrod. It is just a tight slip fit, and corrosion tends to turn it into a interference fit. Try not to ruin it, it’s not part of the minimal kits you commonly get these days.

Yours
Vern
 
Hi. If these is not secured with a clip spring I just press it out with mine fridge compressor. As I did with the others.

It is quite possible to use the lathe to make a new one or even the printer. There are a lot of companys who do restore break parts, so I think
for all of you here people, just do never trow away parts.

AS extra what I never did say here, I am electronicus so repairing things as the clock or rpm meter is not such a problem.
 
Boosters can have different slave cylinder dias (air control valve) that produce very different feel on the pedal - ie, braking effect vs pedal feel.
 
Boosters can have different slave cylinder dias (air control valve) that produce very different feel on the pedal - ie, braking effect vs pedal feel.

I have use the original booster, I have disassembled it to clean and revise the slave cilinder. I need now all the repair kits for slave cilinder and wheel claws or how you call these in English..

I have also a reserve booster who is also from a 3500 rover, this one looks quite good and not old.
 
Is this topic now about a booster cylinder or a brake master cylinder? To me at least they are not the same thing.......For a master cylinder for a P6 I see MGBD want GBP75+ shipping (At least A$180), when I can get a 0.875" dia master locally for ~A$100 promptly. For a booster , would go to a local brake shop, dont care much about cost, as long as they work, and come with some warranty, and I know who they are.
 
Is this topic now about a booster cylinder or a brake master cylinder? To me at least they are not the same thing.......For a master cylinder for a P6 I see MGBD want GBP75+ shipping (At least A$180), when I can get a 0.875" dia master locally for ~A$100 promptly. For a booster , would go to a local brake shop, dont care much about cost, as long as they work, and come with some warranty, and I know who they are.

It is about all break parts, the rover has a complete faulty break system, because the previous owner has drain all the oil years ago. The booster is oke now, get overhauled completely.

I have now a own tread where I do post, please go there.
 
Back
Top