Bop-Bop-Bop...

Whilst I'm on with BOP, I need to replace the n/s bump stop which has escaped:

IMG_7323.JPG

It should be like the o/s:

IMG_7324.JPG

I've started by making a plate to replace the remains of the old one. This is made from 'thick' steel (part of a pattern floorplan I retained from the Alfa). I will weld a nut on & drill holes round the perimeter for plug-welding it to the mount:

IMG_7325.JPG

Fortunately, the mount is still solid.

We'll see how it goes :)
 
Had same on mine a few years back thibk it’s pretty common. I think new bump stops are sold via couple Rover Parts outlets. Did similar repair and gave area a complete clean up and rust protection at same time. Always something!

Dave
 
I've welded a nut to the plate that a bump stop will screw into & have drilled holes around the edge to plug weld to the mounting:

IMG_7331.JPGIMG_7332.JPG

The outside face of the mounting isn't quite as good as I thought, so I've welded the plate on & will do the side next. The rust is due to taking the car out in the wet straight after doing the work :rolleyes:


IMG_7341.JPG
 
Thanks!

This was the side part before replacement:

IMG_7519.JPG

...& after replacement (perhaps not quite master craftsman standard :( - "must try harder")

IMG_7553.JPG

...& the finished job:

IMG_7555.JPG

:)
 
BOP has spent much of the last year sitting doing nothing, so I was surprised that it failed its MOT on a broken rear spring (the same one as in the last picture) :oops:. I should have given it a once-over, but the pit was being hogged by other cars, so I thought I'd just go for it & see what happened. A weeping front shock absorber too & a slight blow from the back exhaust box.

Anyway, I've got some shockers (adjustable) & I'm getting some springs made which should give a similar ride height (fingers crossed). The previous springs were HD & were only fitted 8 years ago, whereas the factory ones lasted 47 years.....:rolleyes:

BOP was put over the pit & jacked up until the back wheels were off the ground:

BOP1.jpg

Then I supported the car across the pit under the forward rear suspension cross-member, took the wheels off, disconnected the lower shocker mounts & pushed them up a bit & also disconnected the driveshafts at the discs. I then lowered the arms until they were at their maximum travel & could then remove the springs relatively easily:

BOP2.jpg

I'll change the rear pads whilst I'm on - I can remove the discs which will make it much easier :)

This is the offending spring:

BOP3.jpg

Hopefully it won't take too long...
 
Last edited:
Great job Phil great to have a nice inspection and work pit too very jealous! I am lucky these days to ga e access to a ramp which is so helpful saved lots back pain and sweating!!
Once again it seems that new springs not as good as original OEM for quality. Happening a lot with various parts.

Dave
 
I've a bit of a wait for BOP's rear springs, so I'm having a go at one or two other things "whilst I'm on" (as you do... :rolleyes:). I'm hoping to get everything done in the 6 weeks-or-so window that I have. Otherwise, it will drift & the car will hog the pit for months.

The de-dion gaiter was split, so I took the tube off & was going to put some new seals in whilst it was apart. Unfortunately, I think the seals must have been 'new old stock' because they were a bit hard & I couldn't get the inner tube back in without the seals distorting:

IMG_0985.jpg

I had to put the used seals back in (:oops:) & all is now fine. I have filled the tube (up to the filler neck) with some thicker oil I got for he Alfa's steering box, so there shouldn't be any leaks. The gaiter wasn't actually leaking when I took it all apart, so the seals were good. In fact they hadn't been in all that long, so I was just doing a 'belt & braces' job with buying the new ones.

Access to the underside is easier at the moment, particularly on the near side as I've removed the exhaust back box which needs replacing. I've repaired the often-perished rib inside the rear wheel arch:

IMG_1027.jpg

But now, of course, "there's more" (as the late Jimmy Cricket would say). This is the vertical section near the bump stop:

IMG_1028.jpg

Loose underseal has certainly been the culprit here, trapping water for a long time.

None of these areas carry much structural weight & were pretty thin pieces when new. However, "I may as well whilst I'm on..";). Even with the pit & with various bits removed, they are still quite difficult sections to get to (& to weld properly). We'll see how it goes.
 
I'm also changing the rear brake pads, which were getting thin. I've had BOP's rear brakes apart several times & I was expecting there to be problems with winding the 'pressure piston' back, especially with it not having done many miles in the last year. However, both sides went well & there doesn't appear to be any leaking of brake fluid from the caliper, which makes a nice change.

With the drive shafts disconnected at the discs, I took the discs off to give even better access & brought out the well-known tool to do the job:

IMG_0987.jpg
 
Phil Robson said:
With the drive shafts disconnected at the discs, I took the discs off to give even better access & brought out the well-known tool to do the job:
Click to expand...
Hi Phil,

A much better option after wiping the piston cup is to spray a small amount of silicon lubricant onto the cup. It will reach the rubber 'O' ring and then you can wind the cup in by hand. I was amazed at how easy this was using this approach.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Phil,

A much better option after wiping the piston cup is to spray a small amount of silicon lubricant onto the cup. It will reach the rubber 'O' ring and then you can wind the cup in by hand. I was amazed at how easy this was using this approach.
Click to expand...
Thank you Ron. I’ll remember that for next time!

I sprayed a little ‘WD40’ on this time, which helped, but I didn’t give its rubber-perishing qualities a thought

Next time may be sooner than I think…
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top