I don't know if you are using the car regularly or if its been stored but I have found that stale fuel can cause this problem.
Backfiring & lack of revs
- Thread starter machman767
- Start date
machman767
Active Member
Hi, guys, latest update. Having been to the meet up last Wednesday at The Waterside and speaking to Mike and Tony with their sublime 2200SC I decided to order a new module from Powerspark, installed it this afternoon but still no joy. I decided to pull each plug to make sure they were all sparking and, surprise surprise, they spark when they feel like and weak when they do. So, what next?! Cleaned all the plugs but thinking it might be worth getting a new set, maybe new dizzy cap and coil? Haven't had chance to get the multi metre on the coil yet.
Secondly, there is a brown wire with a plastic end near to the alternator, looks like it should be plugged in somewhere but doesn't seem to be anything available, any ideas?
Mick
Secondly, there is a brown wire with a plastic end near to the alternator, looks like it should be plugged in somewhere but doesn't seem to be anything available, any ideas?
Mick
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mikecoombs
Active Member
Back in the distributor there is a little wire that connects the moving plate to the baseplate. give it a tug and make sure both ends have good contact and there is a reasonable amount of wire there. Professionally, I'd start by renewing all the service items, plugs, leads, distributor cap and rotor, Points and condensor.
sounds to me like a spark issue, which I think you just confirmed. Finally the the wire to the points - there should be two plastic insulators one on either side of the spring and the wire end should not be touching or be extremely close to the stud and nut. Check this point for earthing with either a lightglobe or meter. Note the engines are very spark plug conscious so just buy the standard plug, don't change the heat range. the 1/2" thread plugs can also short if there is water in the bowl they sit in (originally they had the little extension thingys like the 2000 so have the recess they plug into which can fill with water and oil and short out the plug.
sounds to me like a spark issue, which I think you just confirmed. Finally the the wire to the points - there should be two plastic insulators one on either side of the spring and the wire end should not be touching or be extremely close to the stud and nut. Check this point for earthing with either a lightglobe or meter. Note the engines are very spark plug conscious so just buy the standard plug, don't change the heat range. the 1/2" thread plugs can also short if there is water in the bowl they sit in (originally they had the little extension thingys like the 2000 so have the recess they plug into which can fill with water and oil and short out the plug.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
You mentioned the very low voltage on the ignition switch (4-5v). Even if you switched to electronic ignition this will still be a problem.
I would trace that feed back to source as you have a resistance in it. Look for crusty connections, frayed wiring etc. also, is the 3500 a ballasted ignition system like some four cylinders? If so the ballast resister could be going high resistance on you. If it's like the 2000's the resistor is incorporated into the loom and hard to find. You can try running a temporary feed without a resistor, see if you still have the misfires and backfiring. That would at least confirm or reject that particular problem.
I would trace that feed back to source as you have a resistance in it. Look for crusty connections, frayed wiring etc. also, is the 3500 a ballasted ignition system like some four cylinders? If so the ballast resister could be going high resistance on you. If it's like the 2000's the resistor is incorporated into the loom and hard to find. You can try running a temporary feed without a resistor, see if you still have the misfires and backfiring. That would at least confirm or reject that particular problem.
machman767
Active Member
Thanks for all the suggestions, thought I was getting somewhere yesterday, changed the coil for one I had hanging around and it ran, very very briefly, now back to just churning. Fairly certain its electrical. I've attached a picture of the distributor, the little wire that Mike refers to, bottom left, doesn't appear to have any insulation on it at all, I'm guessing it wont be helping?!
Mick
Mick
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machman767
Active Member
Well, definitely progress! Got a mobile tuner down (George Reid) and got her running, sweetly as far as I was concerned, not good enough for George. Replaced the plugs, changed the oil and has hopefully found the cause of it not starting, chiefly too low a current at the coil thus weak spark and possibly fuel pump on its last legs. Carbs have been taken away for further looking at as right one seems to be taking too much air even with a everything backed off so with them set up right, new fuel pump should be good enough to take to MOT station, whatever that might unearth! But, at least the heart beats again!
Mick
Mick
machman767
Active Member
So, she lives.......almost! Carbs, sorted, new fuel pump, fitted BUT now discover fuel filter must be blocked as supply from it is poor to say the least, patched a temporary solution in and she purrs like she probably hasn't done in years. There is, however, another BUT. A piece of metal on the bit that isn't attached in the photo is missing, we tried to put a split pin in, which worked, but there is now way too much play in the throttle linkage, would anyone have a) a replacement bit or b) have a suggestion, please?! So near yet still so far....
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clive P62
Active Member
Hi,
That white nylon connector piece does wear and cause excessive movement in linkage which in turn effects kickdown
cable adjustment/gear change.
Try the norm p6 parts guys as these were remade i think at some time.
noticed that there is a washer welded to throttle bracket,there should have been a hard black rubber bush fiited,
most of these wear and fall out,still if rod is good fit it should be ok to use.
Clive.
That white nylon connector piece does wear and cause excessive movement in linkage which in turn effects kickdown
cable adjustment/gear change.
Try the norm p6 parts guys as these were remade i think at some time.
noticed that there is a washer welded to throttle bracket,there should have been a hard black rubber bush fiited,
most of these wear and fall out,still if rod is good fit it should be ok to use.
Clive.
machman767
Active Member
Hi, Clive, I don't think the nylon connector is the problem, my mechanic drifted out the bit of metal that remained in the short piece of metal so when we then inserted the split pin to join the linkage together the arm moves a lot before the linkage to the carbs moves. I'm probably not explaining this very well! And I've just thought the bit we drifted out will be in a piece of wood in my garage, will find it tomorrow.
Mick
Mick
machman767
Active Member
Hi, Harvey, looking at the parts manual, it looks like we've drifted out the Tubular Pin (part number 553843) with the remains of the split pin (2556) as it had broken off, hopefully I'll find the tubular pin tomorrow.
Mick
Mick
unstable load
Well-Known Member
You need to refit the roll pin and a new split pin through it.
machman767
Active Member
Hi, John, just looked in garage and found the tubular pin with the remains of the split pin in it, looks like it's going to be a pain to get it out. Will try a bit of heat from the hob when the misses goes out!
Another question, can anyone suggest the best place to get an inline fuel filter from? The picture is of the one I need to replace, Google doesn't seem to be helpful for once.....
Another question, can anyone suggest the best place to get an inline fuel filter from? The picture is of the one I need to replace, Google doesn't seem to be helpful for once.....
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machman767
Active Member
She lives! Managed to get a sellock clip to fit in linkage, with assistance from my good friend a neighbour DL, decided to forgo originality for convenience by replacing fuel filter with a more common inline cartridge type, I'm guessing there may be more crud to come out from the tank yet. And she started, first time, half choke briefly then settled into a nice burble. Took her to the nearest garage for a well deserved drink, now to book her in for the MOT, hopefully they will be gentle with her. Thanks to all for chipping in with suggestions, I guess it really needed someone with George's experience and patience to sort out, we'd have had no chance.
Mick
Mick
machman767
Active Member
So, MOT today. Not really surprised but she failed (), said washers didn't work, they do, not sure what the tester was pushing, hazards only flash on nearside (thanks, Clive, will try your tips), needs welding in three places, not too big or awkward. So, overall, not too bad. Oh, emissions were very good, well within limits. Taking it back next Tuesday, as their welding guy is on holiday, for a quote so with a bit of luck this time next week should be good to go. Had a look underneath for the first time, generally pleased with it, good to see the rear callipers and brake lines have all been done, will need some bushes replacing, particularly on the shockers so will start to look at polybushing I think, all suggestions gratefully received!
Mick
(), said washers didn't work, they do, not sure what the tester was pushing, hazards only flash on nearside (thanks, Clive, will try your tips), needs welding in three places, not too big or awkward. So, overall, not too bad. Oh, emissions were very good, well within limits. Taking it back next Tuesday, as their welding guy is on holiday, for a quote so with a bit of luck this time next week should be good to go. Had a look underneath for the first time, generally pleased with it, good to see the rear callipers and brake lines have all been done, will need some bushes replacing, particularly on the shockers so will start to look at polybushing I think, all suggestions gratefully received!Mick