When I used to dismantle after the plates had broken I would always want to find a reason for the failure, then when reassembling I would rectify all the problems that were there on the way back in.
When dismantling, make sure that the 2 dowel bellhousing bolts are fitted, and fitted correctly. Slacken all the bellhousing bolts below the engine sumpline, leaving the bottom 2 till last. If when you slacken them a gap opens up between the bellhousing and engine bearer plate, the engine sump needs to be moved backwards. Do this on reassembly.
When removing the crank bolts and washer, note which way round the washer is, it needs to have the curved edge next to the flexplate, not the flat edge.
Check the converter spigot, they can get worn, bent or even ripped out completely, but if that's the case you will have been swamped in ATF while doing the job, so it's hard to miss.
Renew the spigot bush.
Clamp the ring gear in the vice by the area where the timing marks are. Remove the old plate and refit the new with a dab of loctite on the bolts. Doing it this way saves any confusion getting the plate in the right position.
Refit the plate getting the crank washer the correct way around. Reassemble with new, or old converter if OK. Fit bellhousing, then refit gearbox.
Once the eng/trans is back in and level, I always slackened all the engine sump bolts and forced the sump fully backwards before retightening all the sump bolts.
If you can get the strengthener assembly that was fitted to the 2200 auto, then fit it.
Once assembled, get the fluid level correct, set the kickdown cable correctly, set the ignition timing correctly, set the idle speed correctly.
Roadtest, return car to customer, taking copious amouts of cash from him as you do so.