Auto box removal

jasper53

Member
Anyone know if when removing the late type auto box it can be removed and fitted with the torque converter attached? Assume the four bolts on the backing plate are all that holds it on to the flywheel? If removing with the whole bell housing rather than just the box itself there will also be no need to remove all of the compensator stuff, as it's attached to the bell house? Assume also that re-fitting is the same procedure, put the TC on the gearbox and fit the lot to the engine. Working on a lift, so no problem with access to anything, also using a transmission jack. I can see we need a photo of the limiter switch wiring before removing it! Other than that looks pretty straight forward to dissconect the other bits and remove. Have taken also the radiator fan off, as suggested by harvey, for safety and the front engine steady bar. More or less ready to drop the thing out. Cheers, Rob
 
The late type (BW65) pretty much has to be removed and refitted with the converter still in the bellhousing, otherwise you can't get things lined up and will damage the front pump seal. (At the very least). You can't remove the bellhousing from the outside of the box, only from inside the bellhousing.

Just seen you have a 2000, so there isn't a late type box, they are all BW35 and with those you can remove the box, then the bellhousing, then the converter, but you can do it all in one as well.
 
Cheers for that, will leave it all in one piece as it will be easier to take out. Inside job for morning while it's hissing down. Rob
 
I've done a lot of them, and always removed the box, then the bellhousing, followed by the converter, but, if you're happier lifting it all out as one then go ahead. One possible problem for you is that the spigot on the converter often gets stuck into the bush on the back of the crank so you end up leaving it there whether you want to or not. Also, replace that crank spigot bush, inspect the flexplate for cracks/damage, and make sure that it's all assembled correctly. Flexplates crack and break, a lot, and there's usually a reason for it. I'd also remove the compensator as I've seen lots get broken during jobs like this. If you do break it I have them in stock though.
 
Will do, taking the flywheel off anyway, so will inspect the items mentioned. Have limited time on the lift so may have to either leave the bearing in, or machine one on the lathe if it looks sub standard. Being a bearing stockist, we may have one kicking around, or something close to machine to correct size. Will have a look when we get it out. Assume the flex plate is ambidextrous, but I'll mark it as I take it off anyway. Last time I had anything to do with an auto was 1976. Bit rusty. Thanks again for the info. Will let you know how we get on.
 
It's a bush rather than a bearing, made out of mild steel. The plate will only fit one way because of the ring gear, but you need to have those fitted together correctly, the most important thing is getting the crank washer the right way around, but there are dowel bolts that need to be fitted correctly as well.
 
"To disconnect the torque converter from the engine, remove the starter motor and remove the four bolts securing it through the the access " Yeah right!! See photo. Wonder how they got the bolts in there?? Had to remove the ring gear and take the bolts out with a spanner through the gap between the flexplate and the engine backing plate. Great fun. As the access holes with a grommet in at each side of the engine were more inboard than the starter hole, we have opened one of them out to get the bolts back in. Wonder if the engine backing plate is for manual box? Still doesn't explain how they got the bolts in there in the first place. However, all sorted now bell house back on, TC back on, gearbox back in tomorrow. Regards oil, assume it's what Castrol called TQF and everyone else calls AQF?
 

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I reckon that's got a manual transmission engine bearer plate, the auto has a cutout to access the converter bolts.

Ford spec M2C-33F or G is the correct fluid.
 
That was my thoughts. They must have run out of plates at the factory as this is numbers matching car, so hasn't had engine swap. Strange? Bet they had a job getting those bolts in? Although we only took the box out to do the ring gear, we replaced the rear main seal at the same time as it looked as though it was weeping a bit. Do the bolts sometimes shake out of the gearbox to bell house? Two of ours were missing. Probably only standard 5/16 UNC so we will have some in the stores. Compensator bolts were loose as well. Maybe was a Friday afternoon car? Got five ltrs of oil out of the box on removal, plus a little bit on the deck. What's the best way of filling and starting? We never drained the TC on removal. Thanks for you input. Rob
 
IIRC the access cutout for the converter bolts was on the starter hole.

I had a V8 BW35 come in with the most horrendously harsh engagement of gears, particularly going D-R, R-D, and when I looked under the bonnet while the owner cycled DRDR etc, the top of the dipstick was moving across about 6" because all 6 of the bolts holding the box to the bellhousing were missing, so not uncommon to see a couple missing. 5/16"UNC is the thread size.

Tip a bit less oil back in than you drained out, then run the engine and set the level.
 
Anyone got a decent assembly diagram for the 2000 auto flex plate and and it's associated spacers bolts etc. Got our box back in and the engine is locked up. Turned fine as we did up the four bolts on the TC obviously, now won't tun at all. Must have something in ass backwards. Gearbox just clicked in to the bell house with no forcing at all. Give up, about ready to torch the thing.
 
The things that spring to mind are:

Converter not properly located in the front pump.
Crank spacer/flexplate/washer fitted in the wrong order.
I think on the 2000/2200 it might even be possible to fit the flexplate back to front as the crank bolts are equally spaced. (Unlike the V8)
 
Interesting. Far as I can recall order was spacer, flexplate lined up with pop mark I put through a hole in the thing to make sure it went back in the same place for timing marks, then a washer with a groove lined up with aforesaid pop mark then the bolts. Assume the flexplate is on the right way, as you could see where the TC had been mounted to it. Even marked the TC in case that needed to go in the same holes. As mentioned before, had to take the ring gear off to remove the four bolts, as has wrong backing plate on the engine. Ring gear is fitted with mesh marks towards the stater. Guess all that's right? How do you know if the pump is in? Can't see how you would know, unless the gearbox won't go in? Pulling it back out the morning. Cheers, Rob
 
From what you say it sounds like the converter isn't engaged with the pump. As you're removing it anyway, make sure that the crank washer is fitted with the radiused side next to the flexplate.
 
Must have been that, as when we removed the box the engine and TC turned fine. Had another go at lining it up with the box and all is fine now. Just need a little bit more oil as the level is between the marks, other than that works fine. Thanks for your info.
 
Just sorted a minor leak round the dipstick nut. What is the recommended method of checking the oil level? Hot, cold, running or static? Currently cold it is between the two marks. Cheers, Rob
 
Thanks for that. Will have a go when we get the head back on the other one. Did cycle the box, but checked it sat, not running. Came up with the mid level. Did get 10 ltrs of ATF and have only used 5 so plenty left. Thanks again. Rob
 
This is the oil we have used in case anyone needs any. This is the Ford spec. available in 1 and 5 ltrs.
 

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