Attempting to get a 110 back on the road

#1
Hi all,

I'm a complete amateur however I have always worked on my own cars, never paid a penny to a mechanic as I've always managed to learn and succeed. However I'm struggling with my 110. perhaps because I've always worked on semi modern Rovers. Rover is my proffered brand. I picked it up as a runner which has stood for many years. It runs and drives well.

Today I went outside on a very frosty morning with the intention of freeing up and restoring the rear brakes. I needed to turn it around to make it safer to jack up on the slight incline on my road. The car nearly started after a few seconds on the starter but stopped, no ignition light and all electrical systems dead. Oil has also leaked from around the dipstick hole. I assumed the moisture has caused something to short out and blown a fuse but I'm more concerned about the oil leak.

Please help. many thanks
 

roverp480

Active Member
#3
As Colin said ,classic symptoms of poor Battery connection or the connections on the battery cable to the starter , including the starter solenoid.
 

quattro

Administrator
Staff member
#5
If the oil has come out of the dipstick hole, it points to excessive crankcase pressure. Not usual if it didn't actually start though :hmm:

Try cleaning out any breathers pipes you have on top of the engine, including any filters on the top cover.
 
#6
Next thing I’m struggling with is getting the butterfly valve to fully close. I have lubricated from the pedal box up to the throttle body, replaced the return spring and rotated the spring mount on the shaft to increase tension. However I am still needing to force the throttle shut by hand at the valve.
 
#9
Hi all,

I seem to have solved the throttle problem by increasing the tension of the pedal return spring. It closes normally and idles smoothly now. However will I come of any unwanted side effects by using this method? I made the adjustment at the rod which has a ball joint at either end. I am starting to believe that the car has been completely stripped down at some point and not fully rebuilt. I am coming across all sorts of things not fully tightened.
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
#10
More tension on the return spring may accelerate wear on the carb throttle shaft, which will produce an air leak eventually and change the idle.To check for a leak here spray something flammable onto the shaft ends whille its running and see if the idle changes. Depends a bit on carb model - some later SUs had seals on the shafts to reduce this - certainly the HD series did, and my HIF do. I wouldnt be surprised if the ball joints in the linkage have some wear that makes them favour an inorrect position .
 
#11
I had a TC that wouldn't idle below 1500RPM when I got it, but I could push the throttles down to slow it. Turned out that the butterflies where not centered correctly by a previous owner. I loosened the screws holding the butterfly to the shaft and snapped it shut with the idle screw fully out. Tightned the screws and all of a sudden I had a 700rpm idle!

I'd check that first before going too crazy looking for a bigger fault.
 
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