Anti-freeze

DAV8

Member
Hi all, I think I am about ready for changing the anti-freeze in my 1971 V8 auto, the manual states to use "Bluecol AA" coloured green or antifreeze conforming to British Standard No 3150, I doubt if the Bluecol AA is still available so, does anybody have any suggestions as to which is the best to use. Many thanks
DAV8
Dave
 
Hi Dave,

It's best to just use the standard Bluecol blue Antifreeze. Mixed 50:50 with de-ionized water, after a good flush through of the cooling system.

Avoid the modern Organic Additive Technology (OAT) antifreezes, which are usually orange, red, pink or purple, amongst other colours.
You need a traditional Inorganic Additive Technology (IAT), ethylene glycol based coolant, like the Bluecol one above.
 
I agree, use an old style ethylene glycol antifreeze , ensuring that it has appropriate inhibitors for use in alloy engines ( most do ) . The one really bad thing to know about , however, is that this is both attractive to ( because of sweetness ) and lethally toxic to, small animals such as cats, so be sure to clear any spillages or leakages immediately
 
I stopped using de-ionized water when I was told that it would leech the minerals that were absent out of the metal of the engine. Hopefully, it wasn't the equivalent of a box of sparks for the grinder. :oops: :LOL:
 
christopher storey said:
I agree, use an old style ethylene glycol antifreeze , ensuring that it has appropriate inhibitors for use in alloy engines ( most do ) . The one really bad thing to know about , however, is that this is both attractive to ( because of sweetness ) and lethally toxic to, small animals such as cats, so be sure to clear any spillages or leakages immediately
I was taught (long time ago) by my boss to assess whether A/F mix was strong enough by dipping a finger in the header tank and tasting it. After a while it was simple to tell if it was too weak. Perhaps we should have had a litter of sacrificial kittens?
I never experienced any ill effects - and the Altzheimer's isn't really a problem once you get used to it.
Sorry, bad taste.
 
Hi, we used to test Glycol antifreeze by tasting it, just a touch on the tongue, we weren't
drinking it. Which was alright until you come across Methanol antifreeze, then you couldn't
get the taste out of your mouth. :roll:

Colin
 
The Rovering Member said:
I stopped using de-ionized water when I was told that it would leech the minerals that were absent out of the metal of the engine. Hopefully, it wasn't the equivalent of a box of sparks for the grinder. :oops: :LOL:

Nah! Think someone is talking out of their hat.

Depends where you are in the country. In Devon and other places with granite water catchment, tap water is fine as you never need to descale a kettle.

I always use filtered rainwater. Plenty of it and the price is right.
 
christopher storey said:
I agree, use an old style ethylene glycol antifreeze , ensuring that it has appropriate inhibitors for use in alloy engines ( most do ) . The one really bad thing to know about , however, is that this is both attractive to ( because of sweetness ) and lethally toxic to, small animals such as cats, so be sure to clear any spillages or leakages immediately

Very good policy.

I'm told however that some ethylene glycol antifreeze manufactured are now 'laced' with a bittering agent to make them less attractive, but I'd still clear any leakages or spillages immediately.
 
Why not try Evans waterless coolant. We use it on racing D types and practically everything else and other companies I know use it religiously on their rally prepared classics. I am using it myself and believe me your V8 or otherwise will thank you for it. No pressure, no corrosion, no heat soak, no cavitation and a few more horses.
 
I have just been into Halfords and seen their 3 choices of anti freeze, OAT or Silicate or Xstream

Cars made after 1998 normally need antifreeze that uses silicate-free, organic acid technology (OAT). These types of antifreeze offer better corrosion protection so that parts don't need to be changed as often.

Cars made before 1998 usually need antifreeze that isn't OAT-based and that does contain silicate.
according to Halfords, (above) cars made before 1998 should have the Silicate one

if you were IN Halfords and had just those 3 choices, which would you choose for a 1970s P6 Rover?
 

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Not sure about the Halfords Anti-Freeze, but I picked up some Blue anti-freeze from Eurocarparts yesterday. I know the fluid in mine is blue already as I had a leak and it was dripping on me. This is what the website says about it:
"It is suitable for any vehicle currently using Blue antifreeze / coolant and meets BC6589 (1992) Standard."
 
A difference in coolant behaviour due to either the steel shim head gasket or a composite late gasket I just MIGHT buy, but any other reason I have a lot of trouble with. The alloy hasnt changed since it was cast (or between early and late ones), I havent seen any coolant that mentions copper/brass radiators being a consideration, so I am using latest modern coolant that specifies alloy engines are OK - which are in a majority now I think. Currently my only deference to the engines age is related to the oil I use, mostly due to the crank seals.
 
Good one CobraBoy,
and for those that don't read instructions, the summary in above liked PDF:
  • Only use blue coloured IAT antifreeze in historic vehicles
  • Only use OAT products (‘advanced’ or ‘long life’ antifreeze) if the vehicle used it when new and if specifically directed by the vehicle’s manufacturer
  • Never mix different types of antifreeze without thoroughly flushing out the system
  • Always replace the coolant within the time scale specified by the anti-freeze manufacturer as the corrosion inhibitors break down over time
So with that I'd buy the halfords blue
 
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