And now my car won't start...
- Thread starter 03-P6_3500
- Start date
03-P6_3500
Member
Hi Harvey, thanks for your quick reply.
However: how do i do this exactly? Test light: like in a screwdriver with a small bulb? And the hotwire: connect a wire from the terminal that receives power to where exactly?
Like i said: i am a absolute beginner with this work... A P6 seemed like a good place to start.
However: how do i do this exactly? Test light: like in a screwdriver with a small bulb? And the hotwire: connect a wire from the terminal that receives power to where exactly?
Like i said: i am a absolute beginner with this work... A P6 seemed like a good place to start.
Yes, exactly that.
You put one end of the "hotwire" to a 12v supply, and touch the other end on to the terminal you have previously identified using the test lamp.
03-P6_3500
Member
I'll try and give that a try.
South Gippy Rover
Active Member
I feel your pain and frustration.
I had something very similar happen to me a while ago. It turned out to be an aftermarket immobiliser switch that I was unaware existed.
Short lived joy
Have you definitely excluded the battery as the culprit? Do the battery terminals heat up when you try and start it?
Give the car a jump start to see if it makes a difference.
I had something very similar happen to me a while ago. It turned out to be an aftermarket immobiliser switch that I was unaware existed.
Short lived joy
Have you definitely excluded the battery as the culprit? Do the battery terminals heat up when you try and start it?
Give the car a jump start to see if it makes a difference.
03-P6_3500
Member
No i haven't excluded the battery, didn't feel the temperature of the terminals to be honest. But i'll charge it today (hope the trickle charger for my motorbike does the job), clean the poles and test it this evening again.
If this doesn't work i'll try to hotwire the starter.
Harvey: if i do this with disconnected ignition the starter wil (hopefully) work and crank the engine but with ignition off the car will not start right? This is only to test if the connection starter terminal - relay works like it should?... I really should have paid more attention in school when electric systems were teached.
If this doesn't work i'll try to hotwire the starter.
Harvey: if i do this with disconnected ignition the starter wil (hopefully) work and crank the engine but with ignition off the car will not start right? This is only to test if the connection starter terminal - relay works like it should?... I really should have paid more attention in school when electric systems were teached.
South Gippy Rover
Active Member
If your battery is the issue and not holding it’s charge then charging it will make no difference.
You need to use a known good healthy battery to exclude it as the culprit.
Simplest option is a straightforward jump start.
You need to use a known good healthy battery to exclude it as the culprit.
Simplest option is a straightforward jump start.
03-P6_3500
Member
See... Like i said. Should've paid better attention.
Of course. I'll try that.
Of course. I'll try that.
03-P6_3500
Member
Just tried a jumpstart: no difference. Clicking starter-relay, further: nothing. The battery is at least 12 yrs old however, might be interesting to replace anyway.
I did notice however that the interior ceilinglight dims a tiny bit when turning the ignition. Don't know if this means anything, but i happened to notice.
Next test: hotwiring the starter...
I did notice however that the interior ceilinglight dims a tiny bit when turning the ignition. Don't know if this means anything, but i happened to notice.
Next test: hotwiring the starter...
03-P6_3500
Member
You put one end of the "hotwire" to a 12v supply, and touch the other end on to the terminal you have previously identified using the test lamp.
[/QUOTE]
I had to make the testlight with a bulb and two wires so it took some time: the terminal in blue (1) is the one that lit up when connecting testlight to terminal 1 and the earth (2).
Again: to make sure i don't set fire to something there: to hotwire i connect the terminal 1 to 12V (battery) = pole with nr. 3, right?
Should i do this with a "real" wire or with a screwdriver like before? I'm starting to understand a bit what i'm doing, but only a bit...
Again: thanks a lot!
[/QUOTE]I had to make the testlight with a bulb and two wires so it took some time: the terminal in blue (1) is the one that lit up when connecting testlight to terminal 1 and the earth (2).
Again: to make sure i don't set fire to something there: to hotwire i connect the terminal 1 to 12V (battery) = pole with nr. 3, right?
Should i do this with a "real" wire or with a screwdriver like before? I'm starting to understand a bit what i'm doing, but only a bit...
Again: thanks a lot!
To make what you are saying clear, terminal 1 becomes live when the ignition switch is turned to the "START" position? It's NOT live all the time?
If both those statements are correct then you can move on.
Again: to make sure i don't set fire to something there: to hotwire i connect the terminal 1 to 12V (battery) = pole with nr. 3, right?
Should i do this with a "real" wire or with a screwdriver like before? I'm starting to understand a bit what i'm doing, but only a bit...
If what I said above is correct it doesn't matter how you short terminals 1 & 3 together, but that small blue terminal connector isn't a original fitting so the wiring has been messed around with.
What does the large White?Brown Lucar connection with the plastic insulator on it connect to? Is it on a tag terminal on the main battery live feed in, or a separate smaller terminal like wire number 1?
03-P6_3500
Member
Hi Harvey,
Thanks again! Every suggestion or answer results in a new question!
To be honest: i haven't checked if the testlight lights up when the ignition is nót in start. I'll check that first. What if it does light up when not in start?
And the second question: i thought that the blue connector looked a bit "thin" and different from the other ones... The white/brown is original i think (according to the wm) and connected to a smaller terminal like no 1. I noticed this when i cleaned the terminals a few days ago.
It is in the shadow of the photograph, but only 2 and 3 are the larger battery and earth terminals.
Thanks again! Every suggestion or answer results in a new question!
To be honest: i haven't checked if the testlight lights up when the ignition is nót in start. I'll check that first. What if it does light up when not in start?
And the second question: i thought that the blue connector looked a bit "thin" and different from the other ones... The white/brown is original i think (according to the wm) and connected to a smaller terminal like no 1. I noticed this when i cleaned the terminals a few days ago.
It is in the shadow of the photograph, but only 2 and 3 are the larger battery and earth terminals.
You should not have any supply to the starter unless the key is in the "Start" position.
I think the White/Brown wire should be the supply in from the relay to operate the solenoid, and the other one with the dodgy blue connector should be the supply out to the coil during cranking. You should be able to test those wires with the test lamp, and once you know which one powers up when the key is in the "start" position, then you can work out which terminal it should be fitted to by hotwiring the 2 small terminals.
I think the White/Brown wire should be the supply in from the relay to operate the solenoid, and the other one with the dodgy blue connector should be the supply out to the coil during cranking. You should be able to test those wires with the test lamp, and once you know which one powers up when the key is in the "start" position, then you can work out which terminal it should be fitted to by hotwiring the 2 small terminals.
03-P6_3500
Member
Hi Harvey,
checked the connector(s): the dodgy blue one gave supply for the test light (although pretty weak compared directly to + and - on battery), the white-brown wire did nothing. So blue is the one to wire hot.
I followed both of them through the engine-bay and ended up at the fusebox (which isn't possible i guess, so must have missed a turn), but there is some more dodgy wiring going on there... See photograph.
Oh, and: Cobraboy: headlights dim a bit as well wen turning the ignition.
checked the connector(s): the dodgy blue one gave supply for the test light (although pretty weak compared directly to + and - on battery), the white-brown wire did nothing. So blue is the one to wire hot.
I followed both of them through the engine-bay and ended up at the fusebox (which isn't possible i guess, so must have missed a turn), but there is some more dodgy wiring going on there... See photograph.
Oh, and: Cobraboy: headlights dim a bit as well wen turning the ignition.
03-P6_3500
Member
The headlights don't go out but weaken a bit.
I have tried to start with a jumpstart lead on saturday: nothing also: just the clicking sound of the relay and the humming of the fuelpump (i think).
03-P6_3500
Member
I just hotwired the blue connector with the battery (1 and 3 on my first photograph): only a slight buzzing sound in the solenoid, nothing more. Same thing as when the ignition is turned to "start", only then the hotwiring wil increase the buzzing a tiny bit. Does this tell you anything? Take out the starter motor or solenoid and have it looked at?
Oh, and followed the wires of blue and white/yellow (yellow turned brown through the years) correctly: this didn't end up in the fusebox ofcourse, but enters the bulkhead. Ahem.
Oh, and followed the wires of blue and white/yellow (yellow turned brown through the years) correctly: this didn't end up in the fusebox ofcourse, but enters the bulkhead. Ahem.