Harvey: You would connect the new wire loom to the battery post through the bulkhead, as Peter did?
No, I would wire it to the main battery in from the battery on the starter solenoid.
Harvey: You would connect the new wire loom to the battery post through the bulkhead, as Peter did?
I'm avoiding cutting anything.Yes, when I do those conversions, which I do on many and varied vehicles I make up my own looms. The only difference with converting from an 11AC is that I would join the 2 wires at the 3AW and use them.
Peter and Harvey:I'm avoiding cutting anything.
The 3AW base is wired without spades so I can't directly join these without cutting.I don't have to cut anything.
The 3AW base is wired without spades so I can't directly join these without cutting.
THanks, again, Harvey. I'll let you know how it goes.It looks like one. They do look very similar to some heavy duty flasher units. The OE ones always had a sticker on them to avoid confusion.
If it's on JRW listed as a 3AW then that's what it should be.
It should be noted that 2 wires for this job is a very poor engineering solution. The reason being it can partially fail in a dangerous state. ie. if one of the pair become disconnected, then a single wire would take the full current. The better solution would be to wire the alternator to the battery with the single, heavy cable that runs to the terminal post. The Ford version of this alternator does exactly that with a large, single ring termination on the alternator itself.[/QUOTE
Peter: Considering this, would a reasonable solution be to use a single, large-gauge wire, attach one end to the battery post or solenoid, and split the other end into two attachments to the A127 terminal?. Also, if you do connect to the interior battery post, instead of directly to the solenoid, is there not still a single, possibly undersized wire bringing the electricity from the battery post to the solenoid? Thanks, DrewIt should be noted that 2 wires for this job is a very poor engineering solution. The reason being it can partially fail in a dangerous state. ie. if one of the pair become disconnected, then a single wire would take the full current. The better solution would be to wire the alternator to the battery with the single, heavy cable that runs to the terminal post. The Ford version of this alternator does exactly that with a large, single ring termination on the alternator itself.
Got it. Thank you so much for your help. I will let you know how things go. Very much appreciated, Peter.I don't think it would help much. The point of failure would likely be one connector coming adrift. That would explain the single "block" connector as that is safer than individual spades.