alternator removal

looking over my 1974 P6 2000 engine bay today, (been doing some work on the car after just buying it) . Found the alternator pulley about 10mm out of line, after removing the ajusting plastic ??? arm, and belt, I find that to get to the swivle bolts to remove the alternatot from the car, bloody impossible to get at, I am to old to be a contortionist.
I need to remove the alternator to come up with a solution to the bad line up and to overhaul the same whilst out. So has any one got a magic removal tool for this job

Brian :idea: :oops:
It is a bit fiddly & best done lying underneath the car. You'll see the bolt heads disappear into the mounting bracket. Last time I removed mine I spaced the bolts out with washers so the heads stay proud of the holes. No subsequent problems encountered doing that though I have to take mine off again soon anyway. :roll:
removed the alternator, I've removed a few in my time, (and dynamos), but never have I come across one that was such a sod to get to.
A Rover- with two nylon ajuster strips, and seperate mounting brackets, whats that all about?
I hav'nt tried getting the spare wheel out of the boot yet, would I need a engine hoist?
Anyway thanks for the info folks
Brian :? :?
On that comment, I've just bought a tow rope.
Getting back to the alternator, now found, not one, but two brackets to fix and ajust this electrical gismo.
P6!! two bolts on the alternator, two on the first bracket, plus rubber inserts, two on the second, which I find has some ajustment slots, (how do you get to these once the alternator is in place)? Four on the two sliders = 10 bolts. :?
gobsmacked is not the word
:oops: :)
As I was told when I enquired about the rather cumbersome set-up, there must have been vibration problems with the alternator at the design stage.

Obviously Messr's Heath & Robinson were put to the task of solving them.
Thanks for all the info folks (got to put folks to be politicaly correct).
Now finished putting the alternator back, not a job I would recomend though. I made it harder for myself by not removeing the radiator and fan in the first place. Now ready for a run.
Brian :D :) :)
Had my alternator in and out like a fiddlers elbow, finely bought a new one, interesting bit! it has the 3 pin plug connector, but not the single wire. Checked with the supplier and was told this is a modern, updated version, and the 3rd wire was obsolete?
Moving on to back brakes now, no wonder I have electric problems, bloody past owners need to be shot without a blindfold, Household wire connecting an electric pump to the coil, a clamp left on a brake pipe, a brake pad hanging out, groan, groan, moan moan, more to come.
Advertised as, you have guest it!!"""
I may have mentioned before, but I stupidly bought this car without viewing, and had it trailered home, to far to go, and I wanted a 3500 auto as my last venture, daft decision, back brakes in bad condition, bloody hernia and old age not helping
So, any young budding mechanic around the Southend/Lakeside area, when Boris, OK's, wants to practice, welcome.
Just off to cry


Well-Known Member
The extra wire on the alternator is for battery sensing and is not required.

As for the rear brakes, tell me something I don't know, or haven't seen already.....:LOL:
I've got one for you Harvey. I'm currently doing a set of rear brakes on a customer car (long story — I thought I'd stopped wrenching for money decades ago but I'm the only guy in 300 miles who knows the P6). Things are going well there but…

I have quite a collection of parts, including a pair of calipers that were stainless sleeved, rebuilt with new pawl & adjuster wheel, fitted to a car and then removed. Tag said as much, plus that they had been flushed with alcohol "to preserve". I know who did this, and his mechanical reputation wasn't great, with a tendency to experiment.

So I stripped them down and confirmed that they indeed had experiments within. For a start, the entire mechanism under the cover had a thick coat of underbody rustproofing compound. The picture is the of the one with the least, there was twice as much in the other. Aside from not being a lubricant and washing away the actual grease, it is also corrosive on bare alloy steel and a threat to flood the hydraulic bore and ruin the rubber seal. Then the adjuster wheel thread had a good sized dollop of copper anti-seize applied. Again, not a lubricant!

Last thing: obviously the alcohol flush was with that 70% stuff, which left a thin film of moisture behind that rusted the piston just enough to freeze it in the bore.

The blessing was that they were never on the car long enough to go wrong, once I had removed all the evil everything, including the rubber seal, was like new, except for the corrosion stain on the lever & adjuster wheel. Putting them back together (properly) today and back on the car today.




Well-Known Member
I put a set of calipers back together using resleeved bodies from a well known supplier. They looked the part, having been blasted and lacquered, unfortunately nothing would screw back into any of the threaded holes because all the blast medium residue had been left in there, (not blown out at all), and then lacquered over. Cue hours of cleaning up all the threads and fluid passageways.


Well-Known Member
@harveyp6, could you be enticed to divulge which well known supplier? Perhaps by private message?
@BSKPLoft100, here's hoping you find an able and competent mechanic to get your Rover working properly, and that you can enjoy driving it before too long.
well, the trapdoor jammed as I as I attempted a bit of harri karri. after my indulgence with the following
what brainchild invented the P6 back brakes?
what is the large nut/weird lock washer on the swivel pin? does it need a stick of dynamite? magic spanner?
mine has decided a corrosion cover keeps out the cold. so why move
having managed to remove the handbrake mechanism, after washing the blood from my mouth, (large spanner crashing of stupid said nut, straight in el gobo)
So these callipers have got to come out, (the wife has outed dynamite) so a bright idea required
thought the que outside my house was all volunteers, turns out it was a end of a line to Tescos



Well-Known Member
I believe Harvey will tell you a certain size of A/F spanner will fit that nut, it has to come off, it is a cover cap. It is easier if you remove the handbrake adjuster stop screw, the one with the round head with a slot it it, you can then rotate the handbrake lever out of the way and then even possibly get a socket on the cap. If however the cap is now mullered you may need to hammer a tight fitting socket on it.
In absolute desperation a dremmel can be used on the centre of that cap to release the rivet in the middle, then the cover steel will come away revealing a nice fresh hex for you to butcher :oops:

You could always get one of these for the wife to use, so much more reliable than a rope.
Turbocut Captive bolt gun Blitz Kerner (General) - Captive bolt gun