After 20 years a P6 again finally a V8 automatic. With work that is.....

So after lots of fun with the brakes I decided to buy a new master cilinder. They are not very cheap though.......

But I wanted to ask you : do you have tips to bleed the braakes? I have the nice dubble system with this nioce piece:

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the pressure failure switch.

This will probably hinder my bleeding will it not.

In the manual it is stated that you have to bleed front and back at the same time. Well tht is not very convenient. You will need three persons to bleed the brakes. or should I block the switch somehow? I do not remeber where but I thoughty I read that somewhere. They stick a little screwdriver in the hole from the swithc on the failure switch. This prevents the little pistonlike part to move.

Any ideas are welcome!!!!
 
So as said in the brakes section The mastercylinder has been replaced and the braking is back!! Yesss succes. I also changed the mild steel exaust endmuffler for a one of stainless steel. Looks a lot better. The mild steel was welded together and had a big welde patch that was awful to look at. But because I had to order the mastercylinder anyway I decided to order the exhaust as well.
 
So it has been a while.
I have a Lucas 35 DE 8 distributor. This was already in when the car was bought. I do not use the resistance wire and 12 volt wire from the starter motor. I use a point from behind the fusebox from the white wires. These are 12 volt as soon the ignition is on. Also during start. But doing so I think the ignition failed. Perhaps because of the 12 volt constant or it might be something else but the car stopped producing sparks.
So I bought this from the states:
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This unit can be mounted in the existing distributor and the coil is a 1.5 ohm Coil suitable for 12 volt constant. No need for the balastwire.

I have to install them yet but keep you posted!!
 
The 35 DE8 Opus ignition has to be run through a ballast resistor, the full 12v will have killed it.

If that Ignitor kit is an upgrade from points, it may not fit an Opus distributor. Not trying to pee on your fireworks, just trying to point out a possible problem that may hold you up.
 
This kit was specifically adviced for the lucas 35DE8 distributor. So I think it will fit. Were there any 35DE8 Distibutors with points made? I thought they all were electronic ignitions?
 
If it says it fits the 35DE8 then no problem.
As for saying no more changing points on the box, I have no idea. As far as I am aware a 35 DE8 is an Opus electronic distributor.
 
I fully agree with you. I also thought that it was very odd to put that on a box. "Never change points again" on something that never had points in the firstplace.
But the box is the same for every set you buy. It is the sticker/label on top that shows what model is in the box.
 
The 35 D8 is a points distributor and can use this internal module.

The 35 DE8 is already an electronic distributor with a far magnetic superior trigger wheel. This is designed to use the Lucas db118 module on the side. It still however needs either a higher resistance coil or a ballasted one.

To use no ballast you need an ignition module which has active feedback i.e. it isn't simply an on off switch on the input trigger, it switches itself off or limits the current when the coil is charged. An common solution on any car is the GM HEI type. Even then you need a ballast set up to protect the coil if the coil is designed to work that way. This type of module optimally runs with an E-core coil which runs no ballast and is 0.3-0.6ohms. That's the point the primary ignition resistance (i.e the power to the coil) doesn't limit the current, the module does.
 
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was not the dab118 module together with the 35 DLM 8 distributor??
My 35DE8 does not have such a module.
pertronix LU-281 is for the 35DE8 distributor
pertronix LU-181 is for the 35D8 distributor

I bought the LU-281
 
I googled LU 281 fitting instructions, it deals with fitting to an Opus dist.
Who mentioned points anyway ?
 
So this morning I started with th installation of the pertronix ignitor type 1.
First remove the old stuff from the distributor:
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and off course it just did not fit. The plastic parts were just a little to high so I could not place the clip.
so sanded it down a little bit about 1 mm:
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so finally it fits:
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everything in
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replaced the old coil with the flamethrower coil. I think the old one was just fine but hey lets do it right all at once!

Turn the key and......... Nothing....

ah yess the battery I wisely disconnected. Sop connected the battery and turned the key....

Succes!!! It ran with barely touching the key! It started really good and run nice and smooth!!!!

so very happy now!!!
 
So the MOT which is needed every two years was there again. It passed with no remarks! So another two years !!. My car is from 1977 so only two times more and it will be MOT free!!

today I changed the inside doorhandles:

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I did not know that the fittings are different!! it has a star fitting whereas the my newer ones had the square fittings.

Luckily I had a pair of suitable fittings laying around!!

See here the difference:

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Unfortunately I do not drive the Rover much now because of the fuel prices but in the winter probably will get a LPG installation installed. That will make a huge difference..
 
Wow, they certainly are. I was driving these cars since the 1970's and have never seen one that good. I take it your government doesn't dump salt all over the roads every time it gets cold?
Well actually they do and this Rover has had some welding before I got it. As you can see on the first page or second of this thread the rear suspension toplink mounts were quite rusty.
My country is the Netherlands, Wet , salty winters and not so high temperatures.

So this one has been repaired and quite well as far as I can see.
I think the guy who started restoring it lost interest for not getting it starttiung well (he connected the ignition wrong) and something banged into his door and made him decide to sell. But I don not know for sure

So today I wrote the car trader an email whether I could get in contact with the previous owner (If he knows who it was). I found out he now is trading in used firetrucks......

But I would love to know what the previous owner did to the engine for example because this work looks very good . I have already seen some bad repairs to this car as well. He used many metric bodls in UNF threads on the body and so on. That costs me a lot of effort to repair!!

But if I hear anything I will post it here!!
 
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