So after lots of fun with the brakes I decided to buy a new master cilinder. They are not very cheap though.......
But I wanted to ask you : do you have tips to bleed the braakes? I have the nice dubble system with this nioce piece:
the pressure failure switch.
This will probably hinder my bleeding will it not.
In the manual it is stated that you have to bleed front and back at the same time. Well tht is not very convenient. You will need three persons to bleed the brakes. or should I block the switch somehow? I do not remeber where but I thoughty I read that somewhere. They stick a little screwdriver in the hole from the swithc on the failure switch. This prevents the little pistonlike part to move.
So as said in the brakes section The mastercylinder has been replaced and the braking is back!! Yesss succes. I also changed the mild steel exaust endmuffler for a one of stainless steel. Looks a lot better. The mild steel was welded together and had a big welde patch that was awful to look at. But because I had to order the mastercylinder anyway I decided to order the exhaust as well.
So it has been a while.
I have a Lucas 35 DE 8 distributor. This was already in when the car was bought. I do not use the resistance wire and 12 volt wire from the starter motor. I use a point from behind the fusebox from the white wires. These are 12 volt as soon the ignition is on. Also during start. But doing so I think the ignition failed. Perhaps because of the 12 volt constant or it might be something else but the car stopped producing sparks.
So I bought this from the states:
This unit can be mounted in the existing distributor and the coil is a 1.5 ohm Coil suitable for 12 volt constant. No need for the balastwire.
I fully agree with you. I also thought that it was very odd to put that on a box. "Never change points again" on something that never had points in the firstplace.
But the box is the same for every set you buy. It is the sticker/label on top that shows what model is in the box.
The 35 D8 is a points distributor and can use this internal module.
The 35 DE8 is already an electronic distributor with a far magnetic superior trigger wheel. This is designed to use the Lucas db118 module on the side. It still however needs either a higher resistance coil or a ballasted one.
To use no ballast you need an ignition module which has active feedback i.e. it isn't simply an on off switch on the input trigger, it switches itself off or limits the current when the coil is charged. An common solution on any car is the GM HEI type. Even then you need a ballast set up to protect the coil if the coil is designed to work that way. This type of module optimally runs with an E-core coil which runs no ballast and is 0.3-0.6ohms. That's the point the primary ignition resistance (i.e the power to the coil) doesn't limit the current, the module does.