Addressing 2000TC Running On.

captaccordion

captaccordion

New Member
My 2000TC used to be an absolute pig for running on, and I took a couple of steps to address it, with a view to reducing combustion chamber temperature. I'm in Australia, but the Southern end, where it can be bloody hot at times, but bloody cold at others. Firstly, I looked into the thermostat. The original is 180 degrees. I tried a 160, but that was a step too far - the car ran badly in cold weather. I settled on a 170 degree thermostat which doesn't trouble the running of the motor, although it probably makes the heater perform even less well! The other thing I looked at was the snorkel to the air filter, which was angled so as to draw air from the hottest part of the radiator. Doubtless it was designed so to prevent carburettor icing in extremely cold conditions. I reworked mine, as shown, changing its angle and adding a baffle so that the motor draws air from beside the radiator. The running on is now very nearly cured, only occurring slightly and occasionally, and would be totally cured if I remembered to let the motor idle for a couple of moments before switching off.Rover TC Revised air snorkel cropped..jpg
 
If the running on persists even after idling before switching off you still have the option of fitting a dump valve into the servo pipe.
 
These dump valves were standard fitting on 1.3 MG metros fitted with a A+engine. Mine was a 1987 model.
Clive.
 
Mine was a 1 owner car and it looked factory but who knows, possibly a after sales update.
I remember with the hot cams they fitted caused emission problems at MOT time ( H/Cs were too high) unless carefully set up.
Clive.
 
I am not sure about Metros, but late carb 1.3 Minis had them as standard.
I used to run an MG Metro cam in my Austin and i also had problems with HC emissions at idle. The solution was to have a high(ish) idle speed, but this caused runnning on problems when the engine was hot, hence i also had to fit that solenoid valve that vented the inlet manifold with the ignition off.
Anyway, back to the OP's issue, what is the idle speed like? If correctly set up, they can idle smoothly at about 650 rpm, where there should be no running on problems.
 
You may want to check the return springs on the distributor, you. Can buy replacements on eBay. If your spark curve is holding advanced then your return to idle speed will be slow. Also check that the throttle is returning properly back to its stop. Also check for air leaks in the carbs. Air leaks will cause lean mixture and hotter running. If you can get a set of HIF6 carbs, I suspect that they would cure a lot of overrun issues as they are more tuneable as they are not so large. However they were only fitted on the the 2200 models which were not sold in Australia. I'm have a set, but I need to get the left hand drive throttle linkages.

I tried 160 degree themostat. I had plug fouling issues. I would run on 98 octane fuel, with 170 degree themostat in Australia. Does your car have an oil cooler? They were standard on earlier cars, but optional on later cars.
 
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