A Guide To Front Spring Removal And Refitment

nzwoodie said:
Can anyone supply or have the dimensions of the packing washers that go between the front suspension top bush brackets and the body. Original part number looks like it was 620033 also what are they made from? I have two cars and neither have any camber shims that I can see, but the packing washers look like rubber on one car and plastic on the other. I'm assuming they also act as a water seal around the long bo
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They aren't packing washer per se, rather they are shims that are used to correct the camber. Steering specialists in Sydney used to have them, but I am talking back in the 1980s. The workshop manuals will tell you that the camber is not adjustable, but it certainly is adjustable. If you have the steering checked, and it turns out require adjustment, then they can be used, but not for any other reason.

Ron.
 
Thanks for your replies. I can't see any shims like the ones in your photos Ron, just the stuffed looking washers between the brackets and the body. The same on both the cars I have here. I'm going to replace the top link bushes and feel that when the washers are disturbed they will be useless and will need to be replaced, the parts list shows them simply as "packing washer top link" part number 620033. As sdibbers said rubber would be to soft but I guess I will have to dismantle one car and find out what they are made from. I can't help but think someone must have replaced theirs at some time and may be able to enlighten me as to what they replaced them with.
Bruce
 
Hi Bruce,

The packing washers that you mention, part number 620033, I have them on my Rover too, they go beneath the nyloc nuts that secure the top link through the bulkhead. They are made from mild steel, and they are just washers. From the look of your photo, to me, that is just some sort of mastik, which from memory I have seen before. It is not the remains of a rubber washer of anything like that, so I would not be too concerned. Unless you have shims fitted by a steering specialist at some point down the line, there is nothing to be fitted between the top link and the bulk head.

Ron.
 
Hi Ron, Thanks for that information, I will now proceed with more confidence, both cars are NZ assembled ones so I guess it's possible that they put some sealer around them in Nelson.
Bruce
 
Hi all
I just removed the right side front spring as I am changing both out as a (hopefully) cure to my excessive neg camber issues.
The new ones I got are 17.5 inches long but the one I removed is only 16 inches long
My cars vin # is 44700858 B which according to the factory manual it should have a 17.5 in spring,is it common for the spring to collapse that much in 49 years?
Just wondering out loud
Cheers,John
 
My rear springs had sagged over 30mm when I did a side by side comparison with the new ones.
Depending how you car has been driven over the last 50 odd years -I'd say what you've got may be normal wear'n tear
 
Great write up! When I took my springs out I used three spring compressors. It was tricky but two can be unstable and the spring can pop out sideways. That can't happen with three. I also put ratchet straps around the springs as a belt and braces approach. They were left in the far corner of the garden until I needed them. There is an awful lot of energy in those springs and I like to be well clear!!
 
Rovohn said:
Hi all
I just removed the right side front spring as I am changing both out as a (hopefully) cure to my excessive neg camber issues.
The new ones I got are 17.5 inches long but the one I removed is only 16 inches long
My cars vin # is 44700858 B which according to the factory manual it should have a 17.5 in spring,is it common for the spring to collapse that much in 49 years?
Just wondering out loud
Cheers,John
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How much negative is excessive ? You might miss that when you take it off. Mine cornered really well with added negative.
 
Rovohn said:
Enough that it can ruin tyres after 1000 miles
John
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For tyres to wear that quickly I would not have thought there was enough negative camber to be gained. I recall my car was around zero camber at stock ride height, and when lowered around 1 1/2" it went to 1 degree negative, so perhaps the same height as yours ?
One degree negative I would have thought not been enough on a std width tyre to cut out that quick.
Maybe you have a tracking issue as well.
I take it the tyres wore on the insides ? perhaps you are toeing out as well ?
 
cobraboy said:
For tyres to wear that quickly I would not have thought there was enough negative camber to be gained. I recall my car was around zero camber at stock ride height, and when lowered around 1 1/2" it went to 1 degree negative, so perhaps the same height as yours ?
One degree negative I would have thought not been enough on a std width tyre to cut out that quick.
Maybe you have a tracking issue as well.
I take it the tyres wore on the insides ? perhaps you are toeing out as well ?
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A few years ago I had replaced the upper and lower ball joints on both sides of the car,that’s when the wear and camber issues started,last year I obtained 2 new/refurbished swivel pillars off a 4 cyl car complete with new ball joints,calipers and rotors and swapped the original sw pillars completely and still had the camber issue,I’m not sure how the toe in/out can change but when I’m finished getting the new springs in I’m going to get a wheel alignment and see where that takes me.
Its all rather frustrating as I never had any issues until I changed the first ball joints
Cheers,John
 
Rovohn said:
A few years ago I had replaced the upper and lower ball joints on both sides of the car,that’s when the wear and camber issues started,last year I obtained 2 new/refurbished swivel pillars off a 4 cyl car complete with new ball joints,calipers and rotors and swapped the original sw pillars completely and still had the camber issue,I’m not sure how the toe in/out can change but when I’m finished getting the new springs in I’m going to get a wheel alignment and see where that takes me.
Its all rather frustrating as I never had any issues until I changed the first ball joints
Cheers,John
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That is one of those annoying coincidences John. Toe in/out is adjusted by the track rod that runs behind the engine. Camber is adjusted by placing shims behind the top link.

Ron.
 
Rovohn said:
A few years ago I had replaced the upper and lower ball joints on both sides of the car,that’s when the wear and camber issues started,last year I obtained 2 new/refurbished swivel pillars off a 4 cyl car complete with new ball joints,calipers and rotors and swapped the original sw pillars completely and still had the camber issue,I’m not sure how the toe in/out can change but when I’m finished getting the new springs in I’m going to get a wheel alignment and see where that takes me.
Its all rather frustrating as I never had any issues until I changed the first ball joints
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If the FWA was set with all the ball joints having excess play, then fitting new joints without resetting the FWA could give you the problem you are experiencing.
 
I'm going to hazard the guess 'Front Wheel Alignment'.
I expect I'll be corrected shortly! ;)
 
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