76 Rover P6 3500 project

spiritfree

New Member
Just acquired the car which is part way through refurbishment to get back on road - main thing left to complete is getting the engine electrics / fuel system & air cond. I seem to be missing parts from the end of the accelerator cable to how it is attaches to the carb. Can anyone help with parts & / or detailed pictures.

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • my Rover.jpeg
    my Rover.jpeg
    284 KB · Views: 35
There is no accelerator cable on the P6. Have you got any pictures of the area around the rear of the engine on the N/S?
 
There is no accelerator cable on the P6. Have you got any pictures of the area around the rear of the engine on the N/S?
My choice of cable instead of linkage obviously got people's notice.
Photos attached to show space for missing parts - I particularly need parts numbered 35 / 36 / 16 / 17 / 18 /19 / 40 / 41 / 42 .
Any advice / help would be appreciated. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • Parts manual view.jpeg
    Parts manual view.jpeg
    133.2 KB · Views: 53
  • Rover #2 view of missing accel. location.jpeg
    Rover #2 view of missing accel. location.jpeg
    160 KB · Views: 53
  • Rover showing space for missing accel linkage.jpeg
    Rover showing space for missing accel linkage.jpeg
    191.9 KB · Views: 53
You could try Wins or MGBD parts. There is a scrap yard in Doncaster that has some P6s in, but they aren't the easiest to contact :confused: (Balby car Spares) 01302 858805

There may be some on here, hopefully someone may come along to help
 
You could try Wins or MGBD parts. There is a scrap yard in Doncaster that has some P6s in, but they aren't the easiest to contact :confused: (Balby car Spares) 01302 858805

There may be some on here, hopefully someone may come along to help
Thanks for the info but as I live in Western Australia have found a source a little closer in Adelaide (South Australia). Thanks again
 
My drivers side door opened & closed ok when I first got the car but now it will only open 25mm when the handle button is operated from the outside & same when trying to open from the inside. The only thing done to the door so far was trying to wind up / down the window & then the door opening problem appeared - HELP - how do I get the door open fully.??????
 
Here is a update on my project progress to date.
Engine freed up by soaking cylinders with diesel for a couple of days / carbs overhauled & linkages restored / fuel system cleaned out / engine started & now idles ok / cooling water hoses renewed & heater refitted . Windscreen wiper motor was seized but now operates (still to find where park position is before fitting wiper blades ). Part of exhaust system replaced . Lub system was primed with petroleum jelly using a syringe via pressure gauge sender tapping point before rotating engine with starter motor - system pressure good. Extensive clean of underneath area (engine sump - auto gearbox area).
Have sourced some parts from JR Wadhams in UK with good prices & delivery time to me in Australia & used parts from a wreckers in South Australia.
 
wow that is what I call progress!!!! keep up the good work!
Thanks - still a bit of tidying up to do & to find the cause of a knock underneath / suspension? (sounds as though something rotating & catching/hitting at one point). Knock came after about 1km of short drives around housing complex & doing tight circle turns. No obvious signs of rubbing/hitting anything underneath. Only thing found was on near side the rod that goes into the spring is pointing down whilst drivers side its horizontal which makes the nearside wheels arch 20mm higher than other side.
 
Thanks - still a bit of tidying up to do & to find the cause of a knock underneath / suspension? (sounds as though something rotating & catching/hitting at one point). Knock came after about 1km of short drives around housing complex & doing tight circle turns. No obvious signs of rubbing/hitting anything underneath. Only thing found was on near side the rod that goes into the spring is pointing down whilst drivers side its horizontal which makes the nearside wheels arch 20mm higher than other side.
Suspension knock sorted (loose wheel nuts on 1 wheel)
I want to fit a second hand indicator switch & followed WM & removed rover logo from centre of steering wheel & then could not go any further as the photo 6124 shows there is no nut to undo & I can't cheat by undoing 4 screws holding switch cover as the photo 6126 shows the indicator switch fits over the steering column - HELP - How do I remove the steering wheel????
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6126.jpeg
    IMG_6126.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 32
  • IMG_6124.jpeg
    IMG_6124.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 31
removed rover logo from centre of steering wheel & then could not go any further as the photo 6124 shows there is no nut to undo & I can't cheat by undoing 4 screws holding switch cover as the photo 6126 shows the indicator switch fits over the steering column - HELP - How do I remove the steering wheel????

I think you must have prised the badge out of the housing, which isn't supposed to happen. What you have left should prise out of the wheel, revealing the nut. Then glue the badge back into the housing.
 
Thanks "harveyp6" - you were right.

Eventually managed to prise off the housing & nut but will have to search for a suitable puller to get wheel off column - knocking not working.
 
At least you dont have to worry about an air bag going bang! A 3 legged puller bolted to the hub might help, along with some penetrating stuff - 50/50 acetone and ATF is very good here. Make sure you mark the original orientation, so the indicator cancelling works again.
 
Back
Top