2200TC Project

On my single carb, fuel overflows from there when float gets stuck. I thought perhaps there was meant to be a pipe to direct such erroneous overflow to ground and avoid the hot bits, but it appears not. I had overflow pipes on my old MG, but have not worried too much now since fuel did not combust on exhaust manifold, but did stink, quickly warning me of the situation. And cleaning that side of the engine! If indeed that's a similar d shaped hole as on the sc. If not, apologies for spouting nonsense in addition to petrol!
Ah! I see. Thanks Mick, I remember your post. Now to put them all back together.
 
Oh woe is me...

TC Carbs are a pain. Rebuild kits done, assembled,"base lined" and refitted. No start. Rear one is dropping fuel. Off they come again.
I'm really not convinced by that floating assembly, any advice in this regard would be appreciated. Also is there an easy way to drain the fuel tank?
 
Oh woe is me...

TC Carbs are a pain. Rebuild kits done, assembled,"base lined" and refitted. No start. Rear one is dropping fuel. Off they come again.
I'm really not convinced by that floating assembly, any advice in this regard would be appreciated. Also is there an easy way to drain the fuel tank?

That brings back memories! I switched to HIF6s on Beryl a few years back and terrible problems with overflowing at first. One new float was taking on fuel immediately and that caused the float chamber to flood. I've read this is a pretty common failure on modern floats.

Other problem I had was on 31 degree C + days when the ethanol would boil and cause floats to sink. That took weeks to work out!

Other things to check when you have them apart: State of butterfly spindles. I thought mine were good, but on removal they showed massive wear (no wonder it wouldn't hold a tune). I made longer Delrin (Acetal) plastic bushes for mine along with a new spindle and that transformed the car. But I believe you can press in new bushes at home if you're careful before fitting new rubber suction seals to the spindle.

My spindle repair is near the bottom of this page.
 
I pulled everything off again, inlet manifold included. Lost a gasket, but no worries, already on order.
Drilled two holes in my workbench, and loosely bolted the manifold to it, with washers and rubber mounts for safety. Makes life so much easier. Wish I'd thought of it sooner.
manifild.jpg
 
Inlet Manifold and Carburetors back on, it's running but it's nowhere near perfect. Some fiddling needed to get the Throttle return to play nice. It's sticking and over revving. Also a blown exhaust, but worst of all, I can't select any gear while the engine is running. Which I hope someone here here might advise me on. I have the Gearstick Seat Bush in my shopping cart over at Win's for this week. Going to start taking it apart tomorrow.
 
Been a while, finally managed to get the shaft eye bush and spherical seat bush done. I haven't taken it out, but gear selection feels better, but it's still a bit rattly. According to the p6 Club article, I have an early gear-stick with the metal acorn, "Early cars had a metal acorn that offers a very crisp change but can rattle". I will inspect the remote housing bushes soon as possible, do they help cure the rattle?
 
Late cars have the metal acorn, with the bush inside the ring on the selector rod...
Hence my confusion...

"There were a variety of different gear levers available during the production life of the car - short, medium and long gear levers for Series 1, Series 2 and post-1973 cars respectively (give or take). All are interchangeable, although the material of the ‘acorn’ at the bottom of the lever differed.
Early cars had a metal acorn that offers a very crisp change but can rattle. Later acorns were a PTFE material (or similar) which can break off or disintegrate. Repairs are difficult and replacements are not difficult to source. "
 
AFAIK there are 4 types:

Short, series one plastic acorn.

Short series 2 plastic acorn.

Long series 2 plastic acorn.

Long series 2 metal acorn.

The above list is the order they appeared on cars. The metal acorn was only available as a long lever, which was never fitted on early cars.
 
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Thanks for the info Harvey, I have since replaced the seat bush and the selector rod bush. Interesting to note, see the groove on the ball? Obviously the bush was replaced, but the previous one had failed and the pin was cutting into it. I'm hoping I don't have to partially remove the engine to get those other bushes in!
 
Next! I've had a niggling little drip at the front of thermostat housing. "Oh I'll get to that, it only took me 5 minutes the last time."... Famous last words. Four hours to remove said obstinate housing, gently tapping and prising. Here's why. Looks like the original gasket, maybe the stat was changed at some point and they didn't bother getting a new gasket. Anyway, new stat and new gasket gone in. All nice again.
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Afternoon.
Restoring my rear plate light, one of the posts snapped when I was removing the nut. Externally it's in pretty good shape, not so nice inside.
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There are two gaskets, one inside one outside. The outside one is available at Wins, the inside one is only available in a pack which includes gaskets for the whole car. I don't know about the inside rusty bracket? Any ideas? Is it available anywhere?
Not a major rush, it's still in the garage...Actually, last pic before it went into the garage for over-wintering, couple of weeks maybe.
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Is the inside one foam or rubber? Foam you can cut from EVA foam sheet (available from craft stores). Rubber, I can print a new TPU one for you.
 
WINS has the inner foam gasket part number 600342. I have seen a reproduction base for that lamp unit previously after having the same problem with the broken post. I searched Lucas L649 and came up with a couple of options. It looks like those lamp assemblies were used fairly extensively. JRW has a repro base listed as part number 536047BH.
 
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Is the inside one foam or rubber? Foam you can cut from EVA foam sheet (available from craft stores). Rubber, I can print a new TPU one for you.
The outer one is Rubber, and it's the better of the two. The inner one Foam. That's a good Idea Steve. Probably manage that myself!
 
WINS has the inner foam gasket part number 600342. I have seen a reproduction base for that lamp unit previously after having the same problem with the broken post. I searched Lucas L649 and came up with a couple of options. It looks like those lamp assemblies were used fairly extensively. JRW has a repro base listed as part number 536047BH.
That's excellent DAK, thanks! I knew one was available, got it the wrong way around! I haven't had anything off JRW yet, must have a look. Cheers.
 
I got the TC out today, reluctant to start but finally did. It needs a proper mechanic to sort out the issues. I let it run for a little while, and off we go... NOT. Can't engage gears. I did the shaft eye bush and seat bush in November, haven't had it out since. I managed to drive out the gate and back in again after much gear grinding. Any recommendations please?
 
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