2200TC Project

Question please. On the TC, on the dizzy side, the engine mounting arrangement is bolt down - nut from underneath. On the exhaust side it's bolt up from the bottom and nut on top. When I was reassembling recently, what I thought was a thick washer on the exhaust side, turned out to be made from thick fibre. When I tightened the nut down I smashed it. Does anyone know the part name or number, (Wins doesn't) and where it fits in the assembly? Thanks.
 
I'd be very surprised it if was bolt up from underneath on either side. Standard practice would normally be bolt down from the top, nut underneath, as it prevents the engine wandering free if the nut works its way off the bottom.

I think the fibre washers are part of a top hat piece for centring the bolt through the engine mount. On one side at least, the hole in the crows foot is about 3/4", so the top hat washers allow it to be centred. They may even be eccentric, therefore theoretically giving the ability to adjust the drive train alignment by rotating the top hat, but I'm not sure.

If the sleeve is still in the crows foot, perhaps just fabricate a washer from some household plastic. A margarine tub or similar?
 
They are insulators, I suspect the idea was to prevent the header heat from travelling through the engine bracket and mount bolt and then getting the rubber bush hot. Only used on TCs. SCs & Automatics use the same bracket as the RH side.

Yours
Vern
 
I'd be very surprised it if was bolt up from underneath on either side. Standard practice would normally be bolt down from the top, nut underneath, as it prevents the engine wandering free if the nut works its way off the bottom.

I think the fibre washers are part of a top hat piece for centring the bolt through the engine mount. On one side at least, the hole in the crows foot is about 3/4", so the top hat washers allow it to be centred. They may even be eccentric, therefore theoretically giving the ability to adjust the drive train alignment by rotating the top hat, but I'm not sure.

If the sleeve is still in the crows foot, perhaps just fabricate a washer from some household plastic. A margarine tub or similar?
Thanks Michael but...
Manual, TC section. " Insert the front mounting bolts but do not tighten them. The left-hand bolt is fitted from below, and the right-hand bolt from above
 
They are insulators, I suspect the idea was to prevent the header heat from travelling through the engine bracket and mount bolt and then getting the rubber bush hot. Only used on TCs. SCs & Automatics use the same bracket as the RH side.

Yours
Vern
Where exactly does it fit Vern?
 
There should be two of them, one on top and one below the bracket. They are number 64 in the drawing.

Yours
Vern
 

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My first though was that both bolts should drop in from above, but Brian is right the manual does say the LH bolt should be inserted from below. Must be for clearance with the twin carb manifold & carbs.

Yours
Vern
 
My first though was that both bolts should drop in from above, but Brian is right the manual does say the LH bolt should be inserted from below. Must be for clearance with the twin carb manifold & carbs.

Yours
Vern
On the TCs you cannot fit the LH bolt from the top without removing the carbs or at least the heat shield on the bottom of the carb assembly. There is just not enough room to get the bolt straight enough to fit into the engine mount bracket. If you replace the original through hole mounts with the VW mounts where there is no separate nut, it has to be bolted from the top and is a lot of "fun" with the carbs in place.
I was bolting both sides from the top (with the original mounts as that does seem logical and potentially safer) and did not discover the error in my ways until the first time I tried to remove the engine without removing the carbs. The bolt has to stay in place as you remove the engine and it is an extra thing to get hung up on as you manoeuvre the engine out.
 
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Yes it does seem a little off safety-wise, it is a self locking nut I think, but still. A split pin would make me feel safer. I'll look into it, now that I know what the parts are, when refitting I might look into a safer alternative.
 
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I would never imagine removing the engine with the carbs still in place.
Since you would have drained the coolant anyway, it is a 10 minute job to take them off with the manifold.
 
I would never imagine removing the engine with the carbs still in place.
Since you would have drained the coolant anyway, it is a 10 minute job to take them off with the manifold.

Absolutely, but the bolts had to come out to support the engine while I replaced the gasket on the engine side-cover.
 
Took the car out this evening, noticed one of my headlights is gone. Outer beam LU 54522973 37.5W. Geoff has HL103H4 , are they OK to replace with?
 
Just had the exhaust examined. The "Olives" joining the sections have blown and completely rotted away. Anyone know of a supplier or a fix?
 
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