2000tc head off

C

catteeclan

New Member
Hi all.
Ex mechanic who doesn't want to be doing the big heavy stuff anymore, but I've taken this on as I haven't done one before.
Was called round for rough running and poor starting, owner wasn't wrong. Soon discovered next to no compression on 3 and 4. Fired compressed air down on TDC to find it exiting the exhaust so I've now got the head off.
Had a look on here and other websites to find anything I should worry about before removal and the only thing that gave me some worry was the plate behind the tensioner which fell down. Lucky for me I could just see the edge of it after the head was removed and fished it out with a magnet.
I checked the valve clearances before removal and they're all on the tight side but the exhaust were very tight to the point I couldn't get a gauge in but I could turn the bucket/follower. This head now stripped out doesn't look like it's been on to long as there's very little carbon out the exhaust ports and build up on the valves.
My reason for coming on here is info as you prob guessed. I heard that these valve seats are already hard and only need harder valves to help them run on the fuel we have now. Don't know if that's true so need help with that. Also best suppliers for the parts I need to get it back together.
Cheers, David.
 
I wasn’t aware of any problem with the valves, especially on the TC head. The TC valves were made from a tougher material than the SC valve iirc. Valve seats should be hardened from factory also. I have, however, seen excessively recut valve seats cause issues. When (if) you send the head in to have work, be aware that skimming the head can cause slack in the top timing chain. If you can have it checked for flatness first and minimise material removal that’ll be a good thing.

I’ve replaced both valves and seats on my car. The seats had been overcut in the past and stems showed wear. Plus, I was planning on using the car quite hard so wanted a strong starting point. I know that it’s probably fine with unleaded fuel, but I still use Lucas lead substitute (I’m in the US) just for peace of mind.

As for head removal, find the original factory workshop manual. It’s one of the best manuals I’ve ever encountered. Shop times are accurate, it lists all tools required before an operation (even down to the socket/spanner’s needed). The engine has some nice features to help with head removal, a bracket to support the cam sprocket, a locking dowel for both flywheel and camshaft to ensure timing isn’t lost and a retraction screw inside the top chain tensioner.
 
I can do a lot of it but think I will hand it over to the engine shop although he's off for hip replacement very soon.
For some reason my cam locking device is missing but sure I can work round it.
 
Wins International are excellent. MGDB also good. JR Wadhams have almost everything but can be slow to ship.
 
Hi again.
Got the head back from the machine shop last week and have been sorting the valve clearances. Find myself needing 6 shims, 4 of which sizes don't seem readily available. I'm guessing these are common so stocks have run out. Anyone point me in the direction of good stocks?
I'm guessing they can be made but I'd imagine expensive.
Waiting to hear back from MGDB at the mo so there's still hope.
 
How are you checking valve clearances - head bolted to block with old gasket? Years ago the founders of the Oz club (Welcome to RCCA Web pages - Rover Car Club of Australia) had a 1" steel plate made so you could bolt a head to it, and do clearances with relative ease. The club also recently helped clear out a closing down Rover service business , which included a decent stock of valve shims, so it might be worth contacting them if you have no luck at home.
 
jp928 said:
How are you checking valve clearances - head bolted to block with old gasket? Years ago the founders of the Oz club (Welcome to RCCA Web pages - Rover Car Club of Australia) had a 1" steel plate made so you could bolt a head to it, and do clearances with relative ease. The club also recently helped clear out a closing down Rover service business , which included a decent stock of valve shims, so it might be worth contacting them if you have no luck at home.
Click to expand...
Thanks JP. I made a piece of wood using the gasket as a template which covered 1 cylinder at a time allowing me to sort 2 valves then moved to the next etc.
I've been told these cams are quite fragile so seemed the safer way with the head off the car.
I'll check out the link thanks. No news from MGDB yet.
 
The cams are quite brittle. You’ll commonly be warned about bolting/ unbolting the head evenly, but you can also break them by rapidly & repeatedly free reving the engine to the redline with no load. It’s never happened to me, but I was there when it happened to a customer car one day & I’ve seen a couple of other engines over the years that had broken cams in the right spot, which was between the #3 & #4 cylinder lobes.

The theory was that torsional windup & some kind of resonance mode was at fault.

Yours
Vern
 
Head now ready to go back on so I've been checking torque etc. Haynes say 70 lb/ft for the mixed gasket I'll be using. That ok? Seems a bit much to me on those skinny old bolts. Also what size Allen key is the upper chain tensioner? Didn't worry when I took it apart but would like to make sure I take the right one which will also be long enough to reach.
Lastly, it looks like I can bolt the tensioner in before dropping the head into place, tensioner locked, anyone tried. If it's common practise the I've missed it in the manual.

Only just remembered to order the throttle coupling which was mashed together with a couple of small pipe clips.
Never had a reply from MGDB so got the parts elsewhere.
 
Allen key for tensioner is 1/8”. Just checked my notes for the head bolts:

Torque: 70lb/ft

No.1 Cap torque:

bolt head marked ‘T’: 55lb/ft.
Or:
bolt head marked ‘V’ 70 lb/ft
 
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