2000 tc Heater Blower no hot air

You won’t see coolant out the top hose. Best method I’ve had success with is to fill the system. Run the engine up to temp with the radiator cap on then loosen the hose clip on the top hose so coolant pressure bleeds air from the heater. When you see coolant coming from the edge of the hose retighten the hose clip and the jobs a good’un.
 
Just filled mine with "4Life" coolant, it's similar to "Evans" but a lot less expensive. I think I paid just under £20 for 5 ltrs. So hoses all back on just have to put the carbs back on and ready to go,(assuming I haven't lost anything like a spring). All nuts were put back in place when the carbs were removed so they will have to be removed again to put carbs on.
Regards Terry H
 
after 2 bottles of drink unblocked and an hour and half with hose .water and pressure test . Found no leaks but still rust and debris being shaken out of heater matrix. aware water flow slow and not right have opted to remove. one end and have a look see. desoldered end with no pipes ..found about 50% of flow vanes ? pipes ? blocked . so made a probe form old metal coat hanger ..needing a fair bashing to get it thin enough to slide into each cooling tube? but having sound 30 mins pushing and cleaning each tube to ensure it was cleared and a water recheck for flow ..am happy to have a go at desoldering 2moro and. pressure testing again. then it's getting unit rebuilt and refitted to car. issue I have found was created by me being bit heavy handed. trying to remove the speaker mounting. box above. tunnel containing choke. fuel reserve tap and radio section in order to get old carpet out from under it. I doing so I broke ( sob) the two mechanical 'fork' operating levers by using excessive force when still connected ! so next job fixing the 'forks' so I can reattach operating levers again! will update when and if I succeed. with a few pics ( I Hope)
 
As above l think end-tank removal & rodding out is the only reliable method of getting the matrix back to working as efficiently as it should. In my case though, l don't think a standard electrical circuit iron will be man enough for the job. :)
 
Good morning,

Although this topic is old, I like to ask where on earth I can find my heater blower?
There is enough hot air coming from the dashboard when I turn the switch to red, but no blower sounds to hear despite controlling all the switches. I like to find out why it’s not working of course.

I looked under the bonnet and could find the heater box in which the motor is supposed to be I guess, but no sight of it. Or doesn’t my car have one originally?

Thank you!

Wilfred
 
The blower is inside the heater casing. Check in a quiet area, engine not running - you should hear and feel the blower then. If not, check the fuses, then the connections on the lever. When I had my heater core redone the man said it was a 2 pass type, and the bulging on one end tank meant that it wasnt working properly, so he fixed it while the end caps were off.
 
Wilfred Oldtimer said:
Good morning,

Although this topic is old, I like to ask where on earth I can find my heater blower?
There is enough hot air coming from the dashboard when I turn the switch to red, but no blower sounds to hear despite controlling all the switches. I like to find out why it’s not working of course.

I looked under the bonnet and could find the heater box in which the motor is supposed to be I guess, but no sight of it. Or doesn’t my car have one originally?

Thank you!

Wilfred
Click to expand...

Hi, The blower motor is in the back of the heater box. -

P6 heater box back.JPG

Colin
 
Wilfred Oldtimer said:
There is enough hot air coming from the dashboard when I turn the switch to red,
Click to expand...

If you mean from the vents in the dashboard (the face vents) then you have problems, if you mean the vents along the front which clear the screen then that's ok :)
 
Hi, thanks.

I can feel no airflow since the fan is not spinning, I can only feel that the heater is working very well. It also cools down when I shift the handle in the upper position.

I reckon I need to take out the heater unit in order to access the motor ?
 
Check there's power going to the motor first. You don't want to take the heater out to find there's a blown fuse or a bad connection to the motor
 
In addition to @colnerov said. Check the fan switch contacts on the left of the center stack. There’s a braided earth strap that grounds the lever as it’s moving, that can break with age. Also, the contacts on the plastic housing can get dirty and stop power getting to the fan. I’d try manually powering the fan with jumpers first to see if it’s the switch as it’s much easier to get to than the fan.
 
Hi,
That makes sense indeed, I will check those things first then. I already found some other bad contacts in my car, which of course is not a big surprise after 51 years :)
 
If the end cap with the in & out pipes is at all bulging its likely that the water does not do its 2 passes through the core, because it doesnt have to. In that cap there should be a dividing baffle at the halfway point , forcing the water to go through half the core to the other end, and back through the other half of the core. The baffle should be attached to the end cap, AND touching the end face of the core.
What is a “double pass” radiator?
 
Morning,

I discovered what the issue was on my heater blower, one of the switches on the control handle is defective, also one of the coils on the motor apparently. What I did is connect the still working switch and coil together and now the motor spins again. Only one speed though, but I can live with that :thumb:

In the diagram you can see the principle, if one coil is connected to ground then the speed of the motor (52) is low, when both coils are connected to ground then the speed is maximum.

Life can be mysterious sometimes.

Have a great Sunday,

Cheers,

Wilfred

IMG_1550.jpeg
 
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