1974 3500 Auto, Reg. STR168N Almond coachwork

having once had stubborn steering wheel on a ford Mk 4 Zephyr I tried pulling upwards heavily with oen hand and with other whacked steering wheel from underneath... soon learning that removing wheel nut completely was very foolish. A wonder I didn't end up with a broken nose but it DID hurt a lot !! lesson learned hard way. Not sure about horns being easily polarity swap but those on my rover are clearly marked so assume theres a reason for this.
 
having once had stubborn steering wheel on a ford Mk 4 Zephyr I tried pulling upwards heavily with oen hand and with other whacked steering wheel from underneath... soon learning that removing wheel nut completely was very foolish. A wonder I didn't end up with a broken nose but it DID hurt a lot !! lesson learned hard way. Not sure about horns being easily polarity swap but those on my rover are clearly marked so assume theres a reason for this.
 
Having removed the steering wheel, an after market version, by screws to boss, I had a 3 legged puller, one of the type with a knurled nut which holds the legs in position, this was more bloody nuisance than anything else, trying to screw the puller, just bound up the 2 opposing nuts, so, Heath Robinson, just nip up the pulley remover, put a large jubilee clip around the 3 legs, tighten, slacken said knurled nut, wind up puller, hey presto, easy peasy, boss almost jumped off. One step further to the moon, horns now seem OK, headlights cxxp, not having a drivers handbook, the light sequence is a bit daunting.
Has anybody a copy/knowledge of the headlight system, ie. I assume the dip works whether the ignition is of or on, (don't forget I am working from scratch, a mass of wires in the engine bay)
Something to read while you are having a cup of tea and a biscuit
Keep well
Brian
 
Back
Top