1972 3500s P6b L/H Front Suspension Bottom Link & Bush Assembly 548057

Lovel

Lovel

Active Member
Have been replacing the lower ball joint on the vertical pillar and have a question on the L/H bottom link 548057. My 1972 3500s car came to me with two spare links L/H & R/H and 595741 & 595740 the other links that are mostly unobtainable apart from modified versions. I noticed that on the link arms on both sides of the car currently fitted the ball joints appear to come from an earlier model with a sort of screwed in retainer rather than the later sealed versions. This got me thinking that the two spare bottom suspension links may more likely were the original fitment with the sealed type ball joints and were replaced by the current screw top versions along with the bottom links. One thing I observed is that the inner end of the links appear to be machined differently with less protruding at one side. Is this something that is different between early and late models, The links 548057 appear to fit 2000 & 3500 models according to the parts list, so wondering why the differences? Hopefully my photos show some of the differences between the bottom links?
 
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Can't speak on the differences in machining, but I was long ago given a set of the early-type links like yours, as they're supposedly serviceable and thus a 'better idea' than the sealed-joint ones. The ones on the car are sealed. Nice to see someone else with similar provisions!
 
I keep looking at that first picture, and those bottom link struts (with the ball joint) look too long to be for a V8, much more like 2000/2200.
Maybe it's a trick of the camera, or my memory failing I don't know.
 
harveyp6 said:
I keep looking at that first picture, and those bottom link struts (with the ball joint) look too long to be for a V8, much more like 2000/2200.
Maybe it's a trick of the camera, or my memory failing I don't know.
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Hmm, not just me then. How long are they centre to centre?
 
I agree Harvey, the V8 and 2000 struts are noticably different and you can't put 2000 ones onto a V8 chassis....
 
Continuing with the thread. I decided to convert one of the 2000/2200 models new long strut arms to have a spare to fit my V8. First using a spare LH wishbone, I removed the rubber boot and bolted an old LH V8 strut to the wishbone and spaced it out with 11.48mm thick equivalent of washers so the that the face of the strut was parallel to the wishbone face and seated in the taper hole. Next using a piece of angle bar. To which the inner part of the strut was bolted I welded the angle bar to the wishbone to create a jig for the reference point.



I then cut a piece out of the strut some 48mm in length and mounted up the newly cut strut in the jig. I purchased a steel bush which was 18.5mm ID and fitted to the ends of the struts. This took a bit of dressing because the struts aren’t exactly concentric with some forging flash, but once fitted in the jig a tack weld was applied to hold the assembly together for final welding. The track rod end of the strut had to be bent slightly to match the V8 shape, this was easily achieved in a hydraulic press as the material is very malleable. White marking showing where to apply pressure and bend ever so slightl.




For welding up of the strut I remover the inner bush just in case heat got to it, the outer end we can do nothing with. The strut was welded with TIG and found that excess heat was easily controlled and no problems with heat transfer to the track end.


Finished article. Tried the new strut in the jig and all fine. Lick of paint and identifiers before the item is put away for a rainy day. Will tackle a right hand side in the near future.

 
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Be aware if you're going to MOT the vehicle. One of the 'RFR' (reason for refusal) is 'inappropriate welding of steering or suspension components'. It will be down to the tester's discretion on the day, but could go down as an advisory. However, that does look like a good modification well executed, but something to be aware of.
 
I did convert these on my car. I purchased 2 x 4 cyl arms and engineered them to fitment V8. There are pictures on my restoration thread
 
ampwhu said:
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That was my original plan but I thought that to thread the uneven concentric shape would require removal of more metal plus if you allow for the OD of the core of the thread, you are possibly down to 16mm OD for the core of the thread shaft rather than the 18 to 19mm OD of the original strut.
 
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That's a nice solution. Did you buy a LH thread die, and did you make or buy the adjuster?
There's been pictures on here of a similar arrangement on early 2000 factory test cars.
 
Yes I have LH and RH thread dies. The thread's are M14 or M16. I can't remember. I machined the adjuster myself.
 
You have a LH tap as well then. That's nice work.

It was all going so well until you mentioned the "M" word.:LOL:.

I made a steering drag link for a truck because I needed a different ball joint at each end but I machined the rod ends and made a sleeve and welded it together and never had a problem with it. The man from the ministry might not have liked it if he noticed it but years of used proved me right.
 
There might be adjusters like that around. I am in a club here that makes Lotus 7 clones (clubbies we call them), and its not uncommon for people who already have steering racks whose tie rods need to be longer, or even shorter - thinking of Escort racks - and I believe I have seen adjusters as above used, specifically to avoid any welding. The amount of inspection these cars get would make detection of welding a certanty. Demon Tweeks comes to mind as a source.
No welding or extensions on my car!
 

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ampwhu said:
Yes I have LH and RH thread dies. The thread's are M14 or M16. I can't remember. I machined the adjuster myself.
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Please can you tell me which machinery you used? I really like the idea of the threaded adjustment but apart from reducing the OD of the strut I was concerned about obtaining total accuracy along the length/orientation of the strut without building some sort of reference point or jig for each side as measuring the original strut is not an easy thing to do, and of course backing off was a fear I suppose, I guess you could always tack weld once the strut was in place:LOL:
 
These modded parts give me the heebie jeebies. I'm sure they're more than strong enough but I found the real macoy when I replaced mine. BTW the cut and sleeve is exactly what JR Wadhams does

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