thomas2310
New Member
What height should the biting point be, mine is about half an inch from the floor,got car recently ,dont know what may have been done regarding seals or cylinders etc.
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1972 2000tc clutch biting point
- Thread starter thomas2310
- Start date
johnsimister
Active Member
It should be higher than that, starting to bite around a third of the way through the travel from floor to pedal fully up. Does the biting point come up if you pump the pedal a few times? An easy first check is to peel back the rubber boot of the slave cylinder to see if the piston seal is leaking. Rover's factory workshop manual, usually easy to find on eBay, gives details of pushrod adjustment, actuating arm angle, pedal height adjustment etc. It's possible that they have been set wrongly in the past.
Last edited:
thomas2310
New Member
Just got the car,new to p6 ownership i shall check for leaks etc,thank for your info
If everything is set up as it should be, and there aren't any leaks, and it's bled properly, then the bite point being too close to the floor is normally a sign of the master cylinder failing.
Here's how to set the pedal height.
Pull back the carpet and underlay and set the brake pedal height between the bottom of the pedal and the floor to 6 & 7/8"
Set the clutch pedal level with the brake. This is done on the threaded rod into the master cylinder (under the bonnet on the 3500S).
Push the clutch operating arm rearward until the release bearing touches the pressure plate and make sure the arm is one spline forward from vertical. Remove the arm and move it on the splines if it's not, and take care not to drop the nut in the bellhousing.
Pull back the slave cylinder boot. Adjust the pushrod so that the piston is about 1" away from the circlip. (Pedal at rest)
Wind the stop bolt all the way in. (Thats the one in the footwell.)
Then get someone to slowly depress the pedal as you look at the piston in the slave. What you need to get is the piston just touching the circlip when the pedal is on the stop, and you achieve this by adjusting the pushrod each time just before the pedal is depressed.
Once you get to the point that putting your foot on the clutch down to the stop makes the piston touch the circlip in the slave, lock the nut on the pushrod.
Then wind the stop bolt up one turn, and lock it with the nut.
Depress the pedal again and make sure there is at least 25thou clearance between the piston and the circlip in the slave.
If not wind the stop bolt up a little at a time.
The above is different to how the WM tells how to do it, but the above is based on practical experience.
Here's how to set the pedal height.
Pull back the carpet and underlay and set the brake pedal height between the bottom of the pedal and the floor to 6 & 7/8"
Set the clutch pedal level with the brake. This is done on the threaded rod into the master cylinder (under the bonnet on the 3500S).
Push the clutch operating arm rearward until the release bearing touches the pressure plate and make sure the arm is one spline forward from vertical. Remove the arm and move it on the splines if it's not, and take care not to drop the nut in the bellhousing.
Pull back the slave cylinder boot. Adjust the pushrod so that the piston is about 1" away from the circlip. (Pedal at rest)
Wind the stop bolt all the way in. (Thats the one in the footwell.)
Then get someone to slowly depress the pedal as you look at the piston in the slave. What you need to get is the piston just touching the circlip when the pedal is on the stop, and you achieve this by adjusting the pushrod each time just before the pedal is depressed.
Once you get to the point that putting your foot on the clutch down to the stop makes the piston touch the circlip in the slave, lock the nut on the pushrod.
Then wind the stop bolt up one turn, and lock it with the nut.
Depress the pedal again and make sure there is at least 25thou clearance between the piston and the circlip in the slave.
If not wind the stop bolt up a little at a time.
The above is different to how the WM tells how to do it, but the above is based on practical experience.
thomas2310
New Member
Thats great,thanks
thomas2310
New Member
Little update on my clutch bite point query, fitted new master and slave cylinders, finally got them bled and all is well,bite point is now about a 1/3rd way up, thanks to all who offered advice