1969 (soon to be) 2000ti TURBO INJECTION!

With a quick search on google i have two ideas for the down pipe
Idea 1. = cheap, cheerful and easy.
downpipewelded.jpg

and idea 2. a bit trickier and more time consuming and more expensive but could be made to look the part.
turbodownpipe.jpg

as much as i would like to do the second one i think the flange maybe a bit beyond me and would need to have it machined flat as welding would probably warp it.
 
As much as I like budget aspect idea of option 1, I've got a very strong feeling it will fail very rapidly :LOL: BUT on the basis that it is effectively a free option, why not try it ? And if it blows off after 10 miles you'll have a hilarious story to tell later :LOL:

With option 2, I would suggest bolting the flange to a scrap turbo while welding, it should keep it pretty flat, then you can always "machine" it flatter with a sheet of glass/steel/mdf and some wet and dry.
 
i dont really have and scrap turbos, well not the same as the one i'm using, i could easily borrow a scrap impreza sti one.
if i went for option 1 i think i would get the welder that has a caravan on our park to weld it and have it looking fairly presentable. and hopfully still free :?: .
If its welded properly i cant see it blowing off any time soon but i think i may have to put a flexy in the pipe somewhere to reduce the stress going through it.
 
Apparently it's very difficult to weld mild steel to cast iron, in fact it's difficult to weld cast iron on it's own. Add to that the incredible heat cycles a turbo goes through, it will be interesting to see how it lasts.

It's a good idea to add some support for the turbo too if you can, it's very common on these engines for the manifold studs to be pulled out of the head, so it's worth taking as much load off it as possible.
 
Cast iron can be succesfully welded but it requires the right techniques, I would think that the cast to mild would be ok too, the other alternative is bronzing /braizing but at turbo exhaust manifold temperatures :?: I would think it might be wiser to fabricate a mild exhaust manifold then mate it up to the turbo I am sure long term reliability would be better.

Graeme
 
Hi, are the castings actually iron? You might find that they are cast steel
(use a magnet to check, but you knew that already). Thus making them
easier to weld, although the carbon from combustion can contaminate the
metal. Another way is to cut the casting off just beyond the internal
shaping and then sandwich it between the turbo and new downpipe using
the existing stud pattern and longer studs.

Colin
 
As far as i am aware the magnetic element in steel is iron threrefore the magnet would stick to cast iron as well as cast steel so although you do have a point i think your testing method is a little off cheers for the idea though.
i don't quite understand the sandwich idea though which side of the internal casting should i cut?
 
Hi, having gone through this thread again I am not sure what I said about
the sandwich method would work. I am not sure that I have a clear idea of
the way the turbo is orientated and where you want to move it to, apologies.

Sorry about the mix up over cast iron and cast steel. But a lot of what was
traditionally cast iron on cars is now cast steel.

Colin
 
No need to appologise all suggestions are welcome.
I may try and get some of the welding done by someone at college as i have provisionally sold them the flywheel and clutch off the 620 as they had one that needed them, so instead of money i may get the bits welded and maybe some flanges made.
And here is a pic of roughly where the turbo sould sit.
S1032782.jpg
 
Looks just about perfect to me.

Shame about all that space over on the other side, you sure you don't want to put a supercharger there as well ? :LOL:

Not sure how you're getting on with the inlet manifold, but I noticed somebody breaking a disco MPI on ebay, might be worth a call. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/170595445872
 
Hi, yes wouldn't putting the alternator down on the other side create more
options with the positioning of the turbo?

Colin
 
Well done Richard! That's the key to it isn't it. Get all the auxilliaries shifted to the other side of the engine. We're often blinded by false assumptions - in this case that, just because o.e.m. parts exist, that you've got to use them! I should have thought of that too, I've recently been helping Colin Gould with a power steering installation on a 2200, so I'm very familiar with discussing how to sort out new front end drives and auxilliaries brackets! In this case the difficult bit is already done - you have a pulley on the crank and pulleys on the alternator and power steering pump, and you haven't got any wiring to cloud the issue! All you need is a bracket and a belt.

This done, you then have lots more space to play with for the turbo and manifolds. The only cost is that you might have to shift the battery to the S2 location in the boot. Are you going to fit a power steering steering box to go with the pas pump? If not, you could junk that as well.

An mpi Disco will already have all the clutch, bellhousing etc and the front three quarters of an LT77 (except it will be an R380!). Make sure you knab the pedal box and clutch master / clutch cable. All you need then is a 2WD taishaft assembly.

Chris
 
Chris, the key aspect of the MPI Disco is that the inlet manifold points to the cam-belt end of the engine (the front in a rwd install) rather than the gearbox / bulkhead end. Without this you either have to cut and re-weld a fwd manifold, or run a stupidly long inlet trunking from the back of the engine to the front (Robin Hood did this when they used the engine).

In terms of moving the alternator etc.. the M16 (same block) had the water pump over on the other side, plus it was seperate from the pas pump (T16 has them combined), so the common thing to do is fit the M16 water pump. If you don't need the pas pump (quite possible in a P6) then you're only left with the alternator to move, and you can either just drop it further down on the same side, or move it to the other side.

However, I don't really see a problem with the way he's got it setup now, and saves a load of messing about moving everything. Also shows that a non-turbo version would be quite a straight forward fit.

I was trying to find Marko Cosic's pages from when he fitted one of these into his land rover, but I think it's all but disappeared, anyway I found this site http://www.kewengineering.co.uk/upgrades4mgs/Engines/fitting_t_series_turbo.htm which may give you some more ideas.
 
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