1969 (soon to be) 2000ti TURBO INJECTION!

getting ahead of myself but i just couldn't help myself when a mate at work offered it to me, so a tenner down and a rev counter up.
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I've remade that engine mount with thicker metal and better welding after a bit more practice, but to one on the pass side will have to be mounted a bit further back to clear the water pump so i will do this on the drivers side too to make them identical and move the plates bolted to the engine to the rear four bosses instead of the front four to sorten the amount of box section used. I've drawn up a little scetch to show what im thinking of doing with the box section and hope it will be strong enough with a bit of bracing.
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I'm wondering how far to go with lightening the car as i want it light but stil comfortable and have its original charactor, so im thinking of cutting as much as posible out of the doors and maybe even drilling holes around the edges of them. i dont know how much bracing i can remove from the bonnet and the boot but the insulation/sound deadening from under the bonnet will be replaced with reflective tape above the turbo and sound deadening will be removed from the cabin and holes drilled in whatever else i can find that wont be seen at first glance and wont effect the stiffness of the base unit.
 
Weight loss should always start from the top of the car going down - so first useful loss would be to use the roof panel as a mould for a fibreglass or carbon fibre replacement. Then perhaps replace the rear 1/4 panels the same way (or omit altogether). You might get away with replacing the side glass with Perspex? Then as you say, lighten the doors as much as possible - a lightweight skin as well as drilling holes? Top weight reduction reduces roll, so now we are well down the car the next objective is to reduce polar moment of inertia. So next up the bumprs have to go. Then the spare wheel (I can feel the difference from that!). Then fibreglass undertrays front and rear. If you can find fibreglass wings that are lighter than the originals, that will be a win as well.

Final and very important item is the wheels. Lightening them reduces unsprung weight (very good!). My normal recommendstion of SD1 Vitesse wheels fails badly on this criteria. See if you can find some original magnesium MiniLites (not the later aluminium version). Cosmics are pretty light too. Low profile tyres also help as the tyre is a significant component of the wheel weight.

Theres no point touching the bonnet or boot - they are already very light. Interior trim and sound deadening generally are also a bit of a waste of time. With the exception of the front seats - which are much heavier than they need to be!

Don't go too mad!

Chris
 
i have thought about fibre glass roof and quaters a little but thought it maybe easy enough to make my own quaters out of ally i dont want to change the front seats or loose the spare wheel or the bumbers (i've just put them on) as that would lose some of the charator of the car and would also be easily noticable. if i wanted to build a super lightweight one id ues the brown shell from the spares car and probably a big v8 or a tuned poky 2200 either engine would be on big carbs and probably completely undrivable :twisted: I know a fiber glasser through work and if i took my roof and other bits too him to m ake a mould how many people would be interested? as for the bonnet and boot just because they are already light doesn't mean they cant be lighter.
perspex windows :? they do lose a lot of weight but i've got one in the back of the caddy and i cant see bugger all out of it and its a right pain and they look awful when they start to go brown so im not sure about that.
 
To reduce the roof weight, just cut the whole lot off like I did. :LOL:

Interior trim and carpets can weight quite a bit, although most of it is low down. Modern cars often have a rubber coated foam underlay and that can be really heavy.
 
that transparent aluminium would be great you could have all the body panels made out of it not to mention a v8 too :) if only it was going to be cheap haha
 
got the passenger side body mount made today and then the mount from the engine to the mount on the body. I changed my mind again on how to mount it to the engine for various reasons so ive bolted and then will weld the box section to the plate like this
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so this is what the mount looks like now
IMG00103-20110404-1845.jpg
 
I'VE DONE IT AGAIN! i've gone and managed to over complicate it all over again. I've used so many angels causing so many stresses on different parts that I don't know whats going on anymore, so lets revise the whole mounting idea again.

The top edge of the plate that I have bolted to the engine is in line withe the bottom of the chassis rail which is flat,
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Now if I just use the cylindrical bushes that i was planning on using originally and a simple bar welded to the plate out to a braket hanging from below the chassis rail with the bush on the end of the bar and a bolt through the bush and brackets.

The bar
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and assembled
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any thoughts?

sorry for all the drawings its just how I think.
 
If you make the box section the same depth as the plate attached to the block then taper it down to the same size as the mount bush then all should be good and strong :D

Are you thinking of hanging it below the chassis rail now? As long as it is securely attached, it should work fine. Would it be welded or bolted?
 
well i would like to bolt it as i dont trust my welding but it would involve some interesting sleving with the angle of the chassis rail.
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but should be ok.

what are peoples thoughts with the stresses involved as its pulling from under rather than pushing from on top?
my dads not convinced with the idea.
 
bought a set of these bad boys today for £30 although not in as good condition obviously.
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i still need the bellhousing and other associated bits though and its really slowing everything down which is frustrating to say the least.
if anyone could help and point out ones they may have seen somewhere or van beakers i may not of tried i would be very greatful.
 
its a good job im 5'7'' and 10 and a half stone then haha a mate at work has got a 820 turbo and wants 300 quid for it :? so i may get it i could make money off it but i would also like alot of bits so i dont know what to do.
my dad had bought some hallogen lights for his and now hes getting round to stripping his hes found out that he already had a set of cibie ones in it so iv had them off him for a cheaky tenner :)
 
I just scrapped a nasp 820 and got over £100 just for the shell, plus another chunk for the Recaros, you could probably buy it, take the parts you want and weigh the rest in, and not end up much out of pocket.
 
I will try get him to stuff it away in his unit until i have the money.
i'm eying up my next project, the track car.
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should look a bit like this in a few years
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8)
 
got my seats today.
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very happy for the price, one needs the bottom cusion recovering as someone has got a little too close with the welder.
 
I've got the seats in now but kept them on rails so i can still move them and i think the suit the car quite well
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and then to hide the unsightly seat rails ive taken the stainless steel door steps off the spairs car cut and rebent them to fit over the rails.
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[edit]
got the harnesses today abd the bolted straight in with the eyelets to the original seatbelt mounts wish id got some along time ago now.
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