1964 French "Sharks Tooth" 2000

Hello Demetris. Yes that's what I'll do, but I need someone with me for this which I did not have yesterday :( I was actually thinking of testing power on the starter motor contacts, but starting with the solenoid is best.

You don't necessarily need an assistant, just a test lamp with an extension lead, so that you can see the lamp when sitting inside the car and flicking the switch.
You can bypass the solenoid by disconnecting and touching the 2 thick leads together, but be careful because the one towards the front of the car is permanently live when the battery is connected.
 
You don't necessarily need an assistant, just a test lamp with an extension lead, so that you can see the lamp when sitting inside the car and flicking the switch.
You can bypass the solenoid by disconnecting and touching the 2 thick leads together, but be careful because the one towards the front of the car is permanently live when the battery is connected.
Good idea, thanks! Just to be clear on the polarity question : neither solenoid nor starter motor are polarized, right? In other words, If I get it wrong on polarity, this would not prevent starting the engine ("only" the dynamo may not like it as I understand it)
 
Indeed, the solenoid and the starter motor will not be affected from polarity changes. If you have a dynamo, as it does not contain any electronics, it won't get harmed in case of wrong polarity connection. However, it will not charge until you polarise it correctly. Have a look here for the procedure.
 
Still not sure which switch you mean?
This one on the left
1578295010106.jpg
 
I have never seen that switch before.. be interested in knowing what it does. And more pictures of it when you have a chance..

You know the keys are in the glovebox, right? :D
 
Well, the glovebox lock won't normally turn on the IGN light, so this isn't the fault for sure. :p
I may have dreamt it, but i think that we discussed here again about the "town and country" switch. This is related to the horns, allowing for a selection between a discreet sound for town use, and full blare for country use. I wonder if this has to do with some sort of French regulation at the time, because i know that at least Citroën DS and CX have a similar system albeit on the same switch (you press the switch gently for the discreet sound, and by pressing more you activate the air horns).
Getting back to this Rover, i can see from the photo that the indicator switch was somehow replaced by a later generic Leyland switch.
 
Well, the glovebox lock won't normally turn on the IGN light, so this isn't the fault for sure. :p
I may have dreamt it, but i think that we discussed here again about the "town and country" switch. This is related to the horns, allowing for a selection between a discreet sound for town use, and full blare for country use. I wonder if this has to do with some sort of French regulation at the time, because i know that at least Citroën DS and CX have a similar system albeit on the same switch (you press the switch gently for the discreet sound, and by pressing more you activate the air horns).
Getting back to this Rover, i can see from the photo that the indicator switch was somehow replaced by a later generic Leyland switch.

Yes, it does sound familiar.

And I did notice the indicator switch.. might be an idea to disconnect it for the time being, in case it's shorting.. anything not standard could be an issue.
 
i can see from the photo that the indicator switch was somehow replaced by a later generic Leyland switch.
Well spotted!:oops: Probably of secondary concern right now but definitely requires changing if only I can find one at some point
 
I may have dreamt it, but i think that we discussed here again about the "town and country" switch. This is related to the horns, allowing for a selection between a discreet sound for town use, and full blare for country use. I wonder if this has to do with some sort of French regulation at the time, because i know that at least Citroën DS and CX have a similar system albeit on the same switch (you press the switch gently for the discreet sound, and by pressing more you activate the air horns).
The horn on this car delivers only the discreet sound whatever the switch position. I will change this with one like this from a Citroën DS to Demetris point!
157837587370500.jpg
 
Looks a bit like the Fiamm airhorn I took off our 1967 FIAT 2300 when I traded it in 1974.
Googled it a few years ago before putting it on an MX5 and learned to my amazement that it comes up as a Ferrari or Maserati horn with an appropriately staggering price.
 
I have a set of those Fiamm alloy trumpet air horns that have been with me through out my vehicle owning life, they are ear splitting loud.
 
This coming saturday, I will try again starting the engine...(Now I have a workshop manual, it helps:))
Just wanted to check the approach :
Since it did not start at the turn of the key, I plan to connect the battery with jump leads directly on to the starter motor to bypass the solenoid. (HT Ignition Coil disconnected).
Then if :
1. Starter Motor does not turn => Starter Motor is faulty
2. Starter Motor turns => causes can be :
2.1 Solenoid is faulty​
2.2 Cable from Ignition Switch to Solenoid disconnected​
2.3 Ignition Switch does not actuate.​
2.4 Connection from Solenoid to Control Box disconnected or Control Box Faulty​

Am I on the right track?
 
I would modify slightly this list, in order to start from the simplest things first:

1) Check and clean the engine earth strap and battery earth connections
2) At the turn of the key to the starter position, use a test lamp to check if power reaches the solenoid.
2A) No power to the solenoid
You obviously have to trace the fault, most probably at the ignition switch. To temporarily overcome this, run a jump lead from the battery to the solenoid energising spade connector and see if this activates the solenoid and/or starter.
If the starter turns, then your problem is the switch.
If the starter doesn't turn, but you hear the solenoid clicking, then also the starter has a problem.
2B) There is power to the solenoid
If the solenoid is earthing correctly to the inner wing and still doesn't click, then the solenoid is dead and needs replacement. In order to bypass it and check the starter too, remove the thick leads from the 2 posts of the solenoid and bridge them together.
Be careful because one of the leads is permanently live, and touching them will produce sparks, take your measures and make sure there is no exposed fuel nearby. This should activate the starter. If not, there is a problem with the starter too.
 
Last edited:
I am back! and just started a specific post in the Electrics section. However reading again Dimitris "how to " reply, I realize I yet have to check is there is power reaching the solenoid with the test lamp before calling it a late solenoid
 
Back
Top