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The photographs were excellent.Looking at those it's pretty straighforward.My withdrawal sleeve is the larger diameter curved type, suitable for the finger type clutch cover.That's saved me a bit of work and a bob or two. Many thanks George

The clutch which I replaced was fitted with a centre pad. The replacement fitted had no centre pad but straight fingers. I have not replaced the withdrawal sleeve. My car is a post 69, the withdrawal sleeve has a curved face. Does this indicate that All is OK? George

My new clutch pressure plate is not fitted with a centre thrust pad. It is of the centre finger type which I believe comes into direct contact with the clutch withdrawal sleeve. I think my withdrawal sleeve part number is571398.Is this the correct sleeve to be used with a spring ( finger) type...

Tend to think it's general wear, but .I believe reshaping that worn selector finger should help a lot. The rear flange nut, was tightened to 75 lb/ft.

With the gearbox on the bench, that's exactly what I would like to do.Thanks Regards George

Thanks Vern My selector finger is the latest type held with a pin. I was hoping to rebuild my existing worn finger if possible, but if replacement one's are available I'll probably go for that. A new finger should obviously be a great improvement, but it would not compensate for any wear...

My 4 speed 2000 mk2 gearbox has continued to cause problems due to a very clunky gearchange over the last couple of years. The gearbox is now on the bench. A full overhaul is beyond my capabilities.but I have adjusted the selectors as shown in the manual, and changed the gear change shaft bushes...

Now turned my attention to the carburettors. Removed both carburettors, cleaned the new inlet manifold 0 rings and used a standard washer on the 4 mounting bolts ( part number 550054) with the intention of exerting more pressure against the new seals, and hopefully reduce or eliminate any gap...

Have had complaints of a strong smell of petrol inside the garage from my goodlady.It didn't register with me,as I thought it always smells of petrol. Now I know why. With three or four petrol cans at the ready I disconnected both feeds to the reserve valve under the bonnet, nothing showing...

Not that I'm aware of.

Ok, will top up the fluid to the neck of the radiator and leave it for a couple of days.Ideally I need to get it running to put the fluid under pressure.

Thanks, will order some Hylomar. That's good news 're the carbs. I need to get the fuel supply sorted, then see what happens.

I used a different compression tester this morning, a Hawk Command, which I picked up at a car boot sale a few months ago. All cylinders tested at around 200 psi.maximum but the gauge pressure kept falling back to zero on 3 of the tests ( all plugs out, foot on the accelerator) A faulty gauge...

Had an early start this morning. Was keen to check the camshaft and distributor positioning, it made sense and I was somewhat embarrassed as to what I would find. But no, the camshaft is spot on, and the distributor rotor is pointing to number one cylinder wit h valves closed at 6 degrees BTDC...

Just realised, will check it.......Tomorrow thanks

Have just seen the reference to 180, Could someone explain?

The diy plug lead kit arrived early this afternoon so have made those up and fitted them.Tried to start the car,but it wouldn't have it.Churned on the starter, but no good. Disconnected the petrol feed from pump to carb to check the flow, nothing.Tried the joggler on the pump and sucking the...

I have electronic distributor fitted, I fitted a new distributor cap and rotor arm this morning .With assistance from YouTube I checked the plugs and leads using a multimeter, but new ones should arrive by wednesday Ignition timing is to spec., and the compression, on all four cylinders are...

Have fitted a rebored 2200 block to my 71, 2000TC. To this, I have fitted the original 2000TC head and refurbished HIF6 carburettors. On first start up I had to churn the engine on the starter as it missed and backfired until it eventually picked up, and I was able to release the starter. The...

Thanks for the info., really appreciated Could I also add that the brackets are ideal for wedging open the side door of my garage. Both the left side and right side brackets fit perfectly. Regards George

Yes, you are quite right, a couple of the brackets do have what looks like a nylon bush in the bulkhead mounting hole. All of the brackets do have a cast number of 560241. Any idea why the hole diameters are different for the TC

My parts catalogue dated September 73 and workshop manual are as you have quoted. Yet, I have brackets from a 2000 TC a 2000 Auto and a 2200TC and all of the brackets are numbered 560241 George

My understanding, is that the engine mounting feet fitted to the TC engine block left and right are different. Whereas the feet fitted to the SC and Auto are the same. Part numbers R/S 560241 all models. And L/S on the TC only is 560242. Is that correct? Am thinking that its probably clearance...

It is worth noting, that the cylinder block was at its absolute minimum length prior to dropping the unit. With the water pump and crankshaft pulley removed it does make quite a difference. Regards George

I have the car well up from the floor front and back. I don't have an engine hoist or indeed room for one at the front of the car. So lowering the engine seemed an option. I asked my grandson to make me a low height trolley with heavy duty castors to lower the engine and gearbox onto...