Not necessarily. You need to check the switch on the cable behind the centre console and make sure that it's fitted correctly and working as a first stop, and check that the otter switch is only earthing out when the engine is up to temperature.
If you twist the choke knob and the light goes out...
That's it. That one is made to the early spec, later ones don't have the four grooves shown on one end. Those grooves were supposed to be against the bearing.
It only needs one bolt to drop out for the plate to drop down on that side. Every single nut and bolt should be checked for tightness before and after each journey. (BTW, it's not OCD, it's CDO, the letters should always be in alphabetical order....);)
But that won't do anything to stop the diff plate dropping down, all it might do is stop the bolt going through the screen of the bloke driving behind you.
What can happen is a failure of the timing case gasket around the oil gallery from the sump, if this happens it can draw air into the gallery and it won't prime.
Re the handbrake it sounds as though you haven't adjusted the calipers up properly when you fitted the pads. All I would do is put the handbrake on, and then look at the quadrants on the calipers and see how far they have travelled. If both are nearly full travel the calipers need adjusting, if...
The cable has to be set so the quadrants are back on their stops when the handbrake is off, but there is no slack in the cable, so the quadrants start moving as soon as the lever is pulled.
Spigot bush is the same id, but steel, so it must be changed. A BW65 might fit in the manual tunnel. Propshaft is shorter, speedo cable is different, rear mount is different, radiator is different.
You're correct about the pads. Just make sure that you fit the pad slippers and shims correctly. The illustration for how to fit them is incorrect in the WM, but it's correct in the parts book. Note that the notch on the slipper that locates on the mills pin sits at the top.
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