Search results

I found that the junction between ballast wire and normal wire was deep in the loom, behind the passenger glove box. Rather than cut in that awkward place I just took a new line from the ignition switch to the coil. Your experience may vary. I'm also thinking I might put the coil on a relay to...

You're right, it's just dreams at this point :)

So quick question - would putting pre 94 heads on a post 94 engine be possible? Would the larger chambers lower compression to 'boost friendly' levels? Although I see there's a 8.13:1 - that should be low enough right?

And that's why I love this place. Such a depth of knowledge. So would P38 heads bolt to a P6 block?

It's what I've heard too....are SD1 and P38 heads the same? The book I was reading recommended the P38 as the best 'out-of-the-box'. Might be cheaper, too. :)

Cool that's what I'm chasing! That's more elegant than my design so thanks for posting! I often get called a heathen on other sites for straying away from SUs. Just meant as a laugh, if anyone gets offended they're not the kind of person I'd enjoy chatting to anyways :)

Hi Guys/Gals. I have gone to the dark side and put a holley on my 3.5, in my P6. I'm not happy with the complicated throttle linkage set-up that came with the bits I used. Can you other 'heathens' show me some pics of the elegant linkage/cable set-ups you have? At the moment I'm thinking I'll...

It'll be different now with the electronic dizzy - might have to ask the manufacturer....

Glad to hear there's progress! I would assume the static advance is the same (8deg)? Hoping to do mine tonight - if jobs are slow enough to let me do it in the work car-park lol.

I'm near Caboolture, QLD AUS. I'm looking for a spare to convert to a throttle linkage for a Holley set-up. Auto car.

When I got the set-up (second hand) I got 2 spares :)

Part #24. Disregard the rubber mounts. Just chasing the mounting bracket, which bolts to the passenger side of the engine. There should be one in Australia, surely. :) Cheers, Rob.

I admire smart people....I'd like to be one, oneday :)

Ignition off, no voltage at W1, W2 or C2. 12v+ at C1, on the battery post of the alternator and on both F+ and B on the alternator - no voltage on the upper tang which normally gives 6v when running (W?). 12v+ at both terminals of the regulator. It has to be coming through the ignition switch...

Yeah that's what I had.... Hmm. I'm starting to think I have a short in the relay trigger wire (W1) somewhere....I recently installed a new ignition - I wonder if there's a leak in there that is giving the 6RA just enough to latch on and drain....but then why would the relay sometimes not fire...

Yes I thought I had done it 'by the numbers'. Interestingly when I put a multimeter on the RA I can't find any current causing it to latch... PS I really appreciate everyones help - the missus is impressed with you lot too!

I did try swapping in a modern relay, but for some reason the car didn't like it.... Maybe it was the wrong type or wrong wiring. Just another thought - I wonder if I have a short in the ignition causing the relay to latch. I think the modern relay did fire straight away, which would mean a...

Thanks, that really helps! It actually explains why the problem is intermittent. Sometimes it's latching, sometimes not. The drain IS through the field circuit so it also explains that. And it explains why the drain is sometimes there, and sometimes not. I did try a modern relay but the car...

Saga continues. Relay appears to fire up, so not that. Then magically the drain left and the alt started charging...then just as magically the drain re-appeared, but for now, the alt is still charging.... With an external regulator are there diodes in the alt that could be playing up...

What is the job of the 6RA relay? If it's not turning on would the alternator not charge....I guess? Is this an accurate diagram for the 6a? Durite 0-727-20 Relay, 12 Volt 30 Amp, 6RA Type Make or Break Relay I guess I could just try one of the modern relays hanging around and see if that...

Are rectifier and a regulator the same thing?

There's no bulb in the boot light. So frustrated with it right now. I don't understand how all the parts work together which makes diagnosing it very difficult. Is there any way to see if the alt isn't being triggered to charge or something like that? Sparky said the alt was good - and it was...

So the new regulator went in. Now it's not charging. Haven't measured drain yet.. is the diode rectifier in the alternator? I might have to throw in the towel and take it to a sparky. I'll be pissed if it's the alternator, as I just had that in there.....

So at least I'm learning stuff..... I realised I was doing the current test incorrectly. I'm actually losing 2.3 amps (WTF!?). That seems like a lot to me. No interior light, no boot light. Pulled each of the 4 fuses one by one, no change. Checked the feed for the (missing) radio wasn't earthing...

I charged it to 93% and then tested the draw as described above. Draw was .05 on the 200ma setting on my multi-meter....what does that equate to? I'm starting to think it's actually the battery itself...perhaps...? Anyhoo, it's back on charge now, not connected to +ve terminal in the car. Will...