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Thanks, @Vern Klukas. I don't have the original, but if I did I would be tempted.

Thanks again, Demetris, and thank you, Vern. I think I might take a chance on this servo from Barratt, just because they are close to me, and returns to UK vendors if something goes wrong could be tricky. I did get to the car and the parts list, so here are the relevant pages (168 and 169). You...

Thank you, @Demetris. My car was built May 25,1966, so it would have had a Lockheed servo with Girling master cylinder and Dunlop brakes by your information.

@Ban306: I'm all for buying from folks who support the Rover community, and may very well if I go down this road and have the option. The servo in question is a Delphi/Lockheed part, so I imagine it's available from vendors other than SNG Barratt. Having said that, SNG Barrat USA is a...

I may have answered my own question, but then again, it's not 100% clear: This document from Moss lists the LR18230 as the proper unit for a Rover 2000 and 2200, but only from Chassis suffix "C", and my car is an "A" suffix car. Given that literally everything in the braking system changed...

My car is an early car with Dunlop brakes and instead of the proper Lockheed servo, it came to me with a "PowerTune" knockoff version of a Lockheed servo. This was discussed in this thread when I purchased my car. The brake feel is still quite notchy, almost as if the piston sticks in the...

That’s right! Steve Dutcher rebuilt the aluminum Weslake head on my 3-litre P5 when I still had it, and the work was beautiful.

So far, so good. I fit one to my MGB last year, and I removed the valve cover to adjust the valves this spring. Still looks like new, and I didn’t have to use a new gasket or Hylomar the daylights put if it, etc. Just put it back on and be certain not to over-tighten! Got it here: Search...

If you ever need a shop for head repair (you said you're in NEW England, right?), River City Machine in White River Junction, VT and Dutcher engineering in western MA have both done right by me.

I just replaced a very old, very thin, cracked valve cover gasket with a silicone one, and it seems to have significantly reduced my oil leakage, which I thought might have been something far more serious, given how much there was, and how it was blown all over then engine block by the fan. It...

Thanks, Guys, sounds like it's part of the automatic chassis lubrication system. I still think that something has to be wrong with this part, even if it's awfully similar, as it sure does look to be cut-down from something else.

My '66 NADA 2000 TC has a glass dome, FWIW.

My apologies for resurrecting a (VERY!) old thread, but I wanted to chime in that I have an early 1966 NADA 2000TC that has the system in the photo posted above by @KiwiRover. It has the flat cap on the valve cover and a draft tube connected via a rubber elbow to the RH front of the engine. If...

I have a very early 2000TC that does not have a PCV system. My car looks just like the picture at the end of this thread, with a flat cap on the rear valve cover and a draft tube at the RH front of the engine. Under my car's flat cap on the valve cover I have a metal gauze filter that seems to...

So, I am resurrecting this thread, as I finally got around to pulling the tachometer. As is so often the case, I stumbled into some blind alleys and it took many hours the first time, but I bet I could remove and refit in under 30 minutes at this point (fine, maybe an hour). Here's the right way...

I will give that a look. Of course, it's way up over the transmission and inaccessible.

Thanks, Harvey. The seat is not worn, the plate is not loose, and the steady bar is not broken. I'll double-check the bushes. If memory serves, isn't there a procedure to align the transmission in the tunnel? My issue is a general amount of slop, combined with reverse and 4th that end up...

A bit of an update, for anyone paying attention. First, I got the build date out of the folks at BMIHT, and this car was built May 25, 1966 - Definitely an early car! Second, my wife and I took the old girl on a 3500 mile trip a month back, and she acquitted herself beautifully. Unfortunately...

This is an old thread, so my apologies for re-awakening it, but I ran across it while looking for the proper plugs to put in my early 2000TC, and as it happens, I can confirm that the early TCs did come with a label specifying Champion N-6Y plugs:

My tachometer is reading a bit high, so I wanted to take it out and see if I could see anything wrong. If not, I thought I might sub in another Smiths tacho and send this one off for service. My car is an early TC with the tachometer directly to the right of the instrument panel, and the clock...

Thanks, guys. The AMCO knob has a great look, but the shape is a bit awkward in the hand. I still like it quite a bit, though!

It looks to me that it's clearly not original, but looking at yours, it sure is nice to see that it is mounted with the cylinder in the same orientation.

Another item of note, which led me to my guess that the rear was rotated, is that the rear of the servo has only two studs, not three. Of note is also that those nuts are loose and need some tightening before I go back on the road!

Vern: My car's serial does have an "A" suffix. I made it over to where the car is, and that hose does connect to the air valve. It looks like the rear of the vacuum canister was rotated to allow the air valve to be placed in this position while aligning the mounting studs with the bracket. I...

I just noticed the "Rover" text on the generator belt on this car. I don't know if that indicates it might be original, but I certainly want to swap that out before making any long trips!