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I’d been told in the past that the asymmetric fan blades were for a diffused output. I spouted that then did some research to cite. It was only then I found out it was the noise reduction that drove the shape. I still stand by buying from @cobraboy though. He’s a top chap.

To further drag it away I found I was wrong (been doing that a lot recently, apologies) turns out the asymmetrical fan blades reduce noise while keeping efficiency. Discussion thread. As for buying from @cobraboy I’ve just bought a LHD manual steering box from him and he was great to deal...

Oh, interesting. Every day is a school day.

Spring goes under the clip on cap of the ‘flying saucer’ white housing. It applies a small amount of pressure to help the valve seal.

It was never book practice to remove the gearbox with the engine in situ. So I think it was a happy coincidence.

Actually they were asymmetric so the airflow over the block was more dispersed. With a symmetrical pattern air flow tends to be straight back. With the asymmetry it tends to form a pronounced cone of air covering more of the block and engine bay.

Maybe someone will buy you one for Christmas Chris.

https://classicroverforum.net/index.php?threads/p6-group-2-project.40537/ Direct link

Looks a tidy base to work with! Excited to see progress with the build.

Hi, I’m sure @cobraboy will be along soon. In the mean time why not post some photos, we like photos :)

You might have more luck in the P6 Electrics section This thread walks you through repairing the rather odd delay switch.

If I remember correctly, once you’ve removed filler assembly you can pull the old grommet away from the hole in the base unit sheet metal. Fit the new seal in place making sure cutout for the catch is aligned correctly push assembly back into the base unit through the newly fitted seal. Secure...

There’s a large jubilee style clip that holds the rubber hose to the underside of the cap assembly inside the boot. (You sort of have to work upside down). Open the fuel cap like you’d do at the patrol station. Then undo the self tapping screws (I think there’s four?) around the opening for the...

Bear in mind that there wasn’t that many examples of rear calipers at the time. Especially those that needed to use with an handbrake. It happens often with new technologies. I remember working on front hydraulic brakes for a Duesenburg Type A. The wheel cylinder was incorporated into the front...

It’s a lot easier to remove the alternator with the bracket.

Looks good on the breather! This was my write up on making and fitting new bushes and spindles near the bottom of this page. Getting back on the road

In my case the tensioner was fairly new and the rubber foot fell off after 500 miles. I was ‘quite’ upset!

That's brilliant news Steve! It makes a good difference for sure.

If it’s very rich it could foul the plugs. Carbon on the plugs can also be a sign of poor ignition as well. What coil are you running?

No real help, but I’ve done a lower tensioner R&R with the engine in situ myself. It’s not a fun experience. I feel your pain, it isn’t easy.

The carbs will be significantly cooler due to air flow and fuel evaporation during atomisation, so I wouldn't be too concerned with heat. Normal anti seize paste would be fine (possibly better considering a chance of it making its way into combustion chambers (slim to no chance TBH). If you're...

Never had one seize before. My guess is someone over tightened it in the past, or it had gotten damp and not been loosened since manufacture. Either way, anti seize paste would be a good call. Maybe with fresh grub screws if the heads of the original ones are damaged from the work needed to...

If you have electronic ignition you won’t have a condenser. If you pop off the distributor cap you should be able to tell. Unless it’s an amplifier style with an external amp box. Those sometimes use the original points as the trigger.

I think it’s because of their irregular shape and the long, flexible arm. Vibration shakes them and breaks the heat seal between the two halves of the nylon float.

It’s a lot easier with the air filter box off. It’s easy to remove (just two 7/16” brass bolts secure the assembly). You want as much room as possible to pull the alternator once undone.