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Hi Harvey, thanks for your input. It's tough getting the mount and I am not sure if this is the right one for a BW35 1970 p6: REAR GEARBOX EXHAUST MOUNT 2000, 2200, 3500 Hopefully you can help verify it. many thanks

Thanks Harvey, it's a challenge removing that part. And it is BW35. Will have to figure out what's the best way forward. thanks again for your input.

Just went under the car and saw the mount and it's missing at quarter of the rubber. Trying to figure out how to undo the bolt and remove the rubber. Does not look very straightforward. Any help would be great.

Hi guys...after 6 months of very happy motoring with my P6 I had to send it to WoF yesterday and it failed due to worn out gearbox mount. I have ordered on from Scott Old Rubber in OZ but wondering if I can take on this project. Firstly is it hard? And secondly where is this mount? Are there two...

Finally managed to find time to try Mike's fuel sender...after googling and youtubing...it is my old sender and I believe as you guys said it is the resistor. When I attached the replacement sender and move the float up and down, my fuel gauge reacts accordingly and quite smoothly too. So just...

Ok so drove her quite a bit and what a difference four new shocks make. Thx everyone for your help in getting my shocks in. Proud moment for me. :)

Hi guys and Ron especially, after driving for more than. 300km in the city and back and cruising with all 5, 1 wife and 3kids, she's been so reliable and never skipped a beat. Engine runs well and no more idling issue too. So it was vapourisation issue after all and moving the pump on the upper...

Thx mate, happy to know that. Will be waiting for a better ride sometime soon. Any idea after how many km?

First impression of the monroes after a few mins is that they are still as soft as the original. And to be honest my old rear shocks seem to work and have resistance as do the new Monroes. Not sure if old rear shocks can still be used? They look alot sturdier and fatter than the Monroes too.

Thx again Mike, you guys have been fantastic. Couldn't have done it without your help. I just tightened the last wheel nut. I make do without the sleeves as the new rubber bushes fit snugly and looks like they are designed not to have additional sleeves as the centre of the two rubber bushes go...

Yes mate there is and it worked. I managed to tighten it tis way enough to not allow the two parts to rotate. Just wondering how much tighter should I make it. Rubber seem to be very compressed already.

Hi Stan, both shocks are in. Mostly happy with it. However I can't say for certain how tight should I tighten both top and bottom nut. They seem to compress the rubber as I tighten and it feels quite tight but I can definitely yank them in some more. Should I or should I not compress the rubber...

I realised with the new bushings, both sleeves are not required as the bushings fit snugly to the shaft thus they don't move at the top at the rear seat nor at the bottom plate. So I think all is good. However I don't know what I did wrong as everytime I try to tighten the nuts, the shocks moves...

Thanks Mike, exactly what i need to know. OK so are you saying don't use the new rubber bushings that come with the new shocks? find a new rubber bushing that is the same diameter as the old ones? The new rubber bushing is also thicker than the old ones. Thoughts?

hi guys...a bit stuck at the moment. my new monroes don't come with new sleeves and the old ones have cracked. Also it seems to have come with additional rubber bushings and the the very large washer for monroes look alot smaller and thinner. Any thoughts? Should I reuse the old large washers?

Hi Stan, your step by step guide has been godsend. Cause I am half way through and it's looking good so far. Will update when the new shocks are in.

Hi guys, happy to report the issue looks like it has been solved after I moved the pump above the carb. I drove to the city for about 40km and rpm needle consistently stayed at 700 and didnt flick up or down. So far so good. Will update again once I received my ignition kit. Thx u all

Hi Ron, I moved the pump above the carb, to its first position before this happened, it died once and a few times when I engaged R, the engine felt it was about to stall. I sure have to drive it more to see if it has been eradicated. By the way, my electronic ignition kit, i.e more powerful...

Hey mate, thx for that. I had a look at Huco. And saw this on a local auction site and it says it eliminates vapour locks. Any thoughts? Cheaper too. :) https://trademe.co.nz/983698719

Ok that makes sense. I had the pump above the carb previously, near the wing at the top of the wheel and recently had it relocated below the carb near the washer bottle and that might have caused it to behave in this way. I will definitely try to put it back where it was and report back soon...

Thx Ron, really appreciate ur help. The pump is mounted very close to the windscreen washer bottle. From AA NZ site, BP 98 contains no Ethanol. Pump is HKT Corp HEP02A. So should I be using 95 and try that first?

Just had a read on vaporisation in another thread. I recently started using BP 98 exclusively, last two top ups. Not too sure if this has anything to do with the issue.

I think i have found the mixture adjustment nut, thanks to the Haynes manual that was gifted by Al. My Rover was as I was told sent to Singapore for British ambassador in the 70s. Later it was sent back to UK and got worked on before it was shipped to NZ. Cant say it is an Emission control...

Hi Ron, yes thats exactly right. The loss in rpm is only after driving 20mins. If I am on D it's obviously worse and the engine can just stall so I often pull the choke or put it to P to get higher idling speed. the fuel line and reserve tap has been done up properly by Al. So power while...