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I have the bracket and the link rod with kick down pin and "C" clip. I don't have the spring and it will need a Rubber bush ( I used a grommet from an electrical wall socket, the ones that stop wires from being chaffed and trimmed it to fit ) worked a treat.

AHH, ok. I probably have the bits for a later set up here. Will look next time I go in the shed of dread

Why not just fit the cable directly to the carbs as per the early RV8 set up. They had a bracket that bolted to the elbow connection and then it fitted to a link on the carbs.

Start off by doing as the above post described. You need to find three points, 1 rest. Slowly pull the slack from the inner cable until you find a point of resistance. This is your REST position to be set with engine idle speed set as low as possible. 2 Full throttle Pull out the inner cable...

So it sounds like the converter you have is a used one ?

8 weeks to recondition a BW35! Wow! Also I would be worried by the builders comment of " your converter is from a P6 and not a P6B"

Have one or two here if your stuck

That's the standard Speedo angle drive found on most of the automatic transmission range fitted to Rover cars along with a few others except jaguar /Daimler cars which differ

I suspect its low on fluid especially as you mentioned you have a leak. Level has probably dropped to a point where there is just not enough fluid to keep the clutch energised. Top it up some more and give it another go

Yes, that's usually a sign of a cracked main case.

Thank you all for your input, I am trying to find homes for a lot of parts for a lot of various makes and models before they get scrapped, so if anyone is in need of them let me know and I can put you in touch with the vendor.

As per the post all, any help with identifying these would be most appreciated They are marked up as Rover.

You could probably use brake pipe along with the bending tool

The GM has or should have an adjustable modulator that you can vary the shift points to suit, it's a case of trial and error. If you look at the rear of the modulator you will see the adjustment screw, make sure it's screwed in slightly before you start your adjustments. As for the pipe itself...

Two grunts will do it. I would use some form of corrosion barrier on the bolts rather than any locking fliud. When they corrode in the main case they snap the bolts lugs off it

If it's a BW35 / 65 converter then you require 4 of 3/8 UNF 15mm thread length ( 24mm overall length ) You also need a hardened washer on each one

Yes I would say it's too slack or it is becoming too slack when returning to rest. The crimp can move up the cable if it's returning hard back into the inner sleeve.

Hi Peter. Sorry I have missed your callings, my old email has been closed by Sky and I can no longer access it. I will ping you a PM with my new mail address. The cable should not come out of the cam, the only way it will do that is if the cable is slack enough to be pushed backwards when the...

Only the SD1 had GM autos.

013 serial code for P6B Anything else is likely to be SD1 ( which won't fit directly without swapping things and or machining things )

Ok. I hope it works out for you. The cable I have here should it not.

Hi KJ. Do you not have the speedo pinion and cable from the ZF ?

Hi Marc. The one with the groove inside is NOT for the V8 The one without the groove is I suspect for the V8 Rover, but I need to check it against one to confirm this.

Why don't you ask them to remove the entire rod and linkage set up from the car and then clean, straighten and return to them with the lengths set to the measurements in the workshop manual. Say here you go, these are right now.......... and wait N see

I would take a punt on the valve body being the culprit. Sadly I'm the other end of the country