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I have just replaced Vredstein Sprint Classics on the front of my car with Hankook Optimos, and haven't noticed any difference in the handling.

If you think the petrol might be the cause then I can't see octane booster making any difference. A fuel problem is more likely to be contamination, than the petrol being of a lower grade. The only solution if it is the fuel would be to drain the tank. You've really nothing to lose, since if...

A couple of months ago my car started running roughly and wouldn't idle. I checked all the usual things - even stripping the carbs - without success. I had filled with petrol the night before the problem started and half-suspected that was the cause, but the car was running so badly I doubted...

Thanks Harvey. The box changes nicely enough so long as I don't try to hurry it, so perhaps the spare won't be needed.

The gearbox on my 1974 3500 is a bit notchy, and recently spat out a synchro tooth when I changed the oil. As the car is my daily driver I don't want it off the road for too long so have acquired another box which I intend to have rebuilt in readiness for the current box's eventual demise. Is...

There is. I fitted one to my '74 car recently to replace the original as the belt had frayed. I got mine from Wins (Classic British Car Specialist) but Mark Gray and Wadhams also have them. Can't remember the exact cost, but it was around £50.

I have to change a rear wheel bearing on my series 2 3500S. Have bought the bearing but cannot get the collapsible spacer. I'm told that it is not necessary, and that I can re-use the old one provided I torque it up correctly. Can anyone tell me what the torque setting should be?

Any time you see the car there, come and say hello. I'll either be on the simulator or behind the shop counter. You'll have no trouble finding me as we all wear name badges. Andy

That was me. I work in the museum on a voluntary basis and the P6 is my every day transport. Hope you enjoyed your visit. Next time you visit I can thoroughly recommend having a go on the spitfire simulator.

"As an aside, I think I'm going to run a course on how to fit a P6 handbrake boot." Put me down for that. I've just replaced mine and it looks the same. Wasn't happy with it at the time but couldn't see any way to improve it. What am I doing wrong?

Win's don't have any and won't be getting any more. Bought two last week from Wadhams, £9 each plus VAT.

Might be worth trying a different paint shop. My local shop (in Kent, so no good for you) were unable to do anything from the paint code but produced a very good match just from the year of the car and the name BL gave the colour (almond).

Pretty sure they're satin.

There's a chap near Ramsgate with quite a collection of old police cars, including a blue ex-met P6. Not exactly local to where you saw it, but not that far away.

I had the same problem. After removing the remains of the old stop, the plate to which it fits was sound but I could not get the bolt out. I fixed the new one on with Tiger seal (polyurethane adhesive), and it's still there four years later.

Bought a decent auto-dimming mask, apron, and gauntlets. As I ride a motorbike I also have a ready supply of earplugs (not something I would have thought of using). After a lot of frustration, it all got a lot easier when I realised that there was a protective film on the inside of the mask as...

Thanks. I had a look inside with a borescope and it looks remarkably clean, but seems a good idea to give it a bit of extra protection while the car's stripped.

I currently have the front wings off my car and noticed a clear plastic bung just forward of the door that gives access to the void between the inner and outer bulkheads. Before I spray inside with cavity wax, can anyone tell me whether the void is open to the inside of the car.

I've finally taken the plunge and bought this www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/deta ... mig-welder. Only spent about 30 mins playing, and all I've managed so far is a lot of random splashes and a few holes. Hope it gets easier soon as the car is of the road until I master it (or give up...

My 3500 has been my everyday car since I bought it nearly five years ago. The nearest I have had to a breakdown was a spell of rough running which was resolved by new HT leads. In practical terms, the extra fuel cost is offset to some extent by the free road tax and low depreciation and is, in...

Thanks chaps. Having spent some time looking at the welding forum I'm probably more confused now than when I started. Simon, when you say you trashed your 90, was that because you used it a lot and for long periods (which I am unlikely to do) or because it was not up to the job? Also, as you...

I have finally decided to take the plunge and have a go at welding. Looking through past posts Clarke machines seem to be well regarded, and as I have a Machine Mart nearby that seems the way to go. Where I should like some advice is which model. It will be solely for use on the cars, and if I...

Might be worth trying a different supplier. My local paint shop told me the code was no help but mixed a near perfect match with only the name BL gave the colour (Almond in my case) and the year of manufacture.

My car is 1974 and has no rear fog lights. It has never been a problem. I suspect it's a case of not required but, if fitted, must be working. Take them off and you should have no problem.

My gauge is pretty accurate, insofar as the amount needed to fill the tank is generally close to what is indicated on the gauge. I have to pull the reserve when the needle is just into the final segment (so just under a quarter of a tank) and it takes around twelve gallons to fill up.