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Ah well they are on now with 18mm body tape, quite a firm hold and easy and stress free to fit compared to a couple of months ago when I fitted the Imp body chrome trims which I drilled and fitted the plastic clips for. Easier to maintain a straight seam free line.

5 years later and I still have not fitted the chrome strips, but am tempted to do so now, however although I have all the clips at hand I am reluctant to start drilling holes in the panels. Was thinking if anyone has used Tiger seal instead or double sided body tape, perhaps a little rough but...

Its still lying outside a commercial garage in Fyvie, Aberdeenshire , i just saw it just last week. The garage owner has probably about 20 or 30 other 70’s classics that never move. They never sell any of them or would consider breaking as far as i can tell, and tbh are not very helpful...

My clutch pedal over the last couple of years has been eventually getting higher and higher relative to the brake pedal until the point yesterday when it started to strike the accelerator pedal crossshaft. The clutch works the same as it always did, it’s just there is a lot more movement until...

I just had a look around and can’t find anymore 15/16” A/F bolt heads, perhaps a 24mm A/F bolt head would work but I don’t have either to sample and confirm if the bolt shaft would be suitable and have a diameter of 0.625” or more to turn it down?

This link shows some discussion on the subject and dimensions, post #6 & #7 1972 3500S P6B Power Steering Installation

Slightly neater than the spare LT77 bell housing I had where someone had attacked it with a lump hammer. Wish I hadn’t skipped it after finding out trying to obtain a replacement was quite expensive.

The definitive answer from the Rover operations manual. Yoke angular displacement

Thanks for confirming. I was under the impression they should be in phase after reading this thread, but maybe it’s just me that’s read it incorrectly

Some photos of the slot and the piece of box section held alongside the clutch slave arm. Perhaps someone has added in the slot in the gearbox at one time, but boy was it handy. The angle of the box section is held towards the arm as it is angled, sorry but was difficult to hold and take photo...

This prop shaft alignment thing was bugging me, so I eventually found the alignment mark highlighted in green after a little investigation. 1st photo shows the rear arrow aligns with the front arrow. The photo shows it slightly off but it is just the camera lens distorting things. The second...

After having tried all the usual methods to free off my clutch which I’m sure is not too good for the drivetrain, these last few years when storing over winter I have held the clutch pedal down and placed a piece of 1” x 1” long square box section between the slave arm and the alloy gearbox...

Well I have spent way too much money and hours rebuilding the 5 speed box, including sourcing all the parts, but I’m at a stage now where I am beginning to think it is such a shame to remove the old original 4 speed box, and in order to preserve the cars original character I have parked the idea...

At least the engine will be sucking in cooler denser air boosting power compared to the pancake filters which just suck in hot air and make more noise.

Can you advise if this pump unique to our cars ?

Prop shaft Alignment arrows where did they come from ?

The previous photo supplied by mrtask shows a slightly different mount compared to the one I have, and I think that is the one that was used by cobraboy, that clears it up for me. Seems that is a stronger mount with the extra web. Here’s mine in the same position.

Any chance you can clarify what the bracket is from? The top half looks to be SD1, but the bottom part looks like something else, and no matter which way I plan to cut up my SD1 bracket I can’t see how the lower part is fabricated from just one bracket? This photo below from another...

Ok thank you, will order up a pressure plate too, and manufacture a spacer.

Understood the part about the splines difference between LT77 and 3500s, but the pressure plate seems to be acceptable in the conversion guide? Also seems to be a self centering option for the SD1 Clutch pressure plate and bearing, I’m not sure of the subtle differences between them?

Can you advise why the recommendation to change the clutch pressure plate and the slave. I have been reading the LT77 conversion guide which mentions no need to change the pressure plate or the use of a spacer on the slave.

Spotted a pump on eBay with 5541/9522/1 for a USA ca, perhaps same as UK version? Rover P6 3500 Power steering pump | eBay

Thanks for sharing that detailed info, and your experience. The hose I have came from Wadhams, ok it doesn’t take much to bend it, but as you can see in my photo comparison they are quite different, so not even close IMO. Could do better on next batches. Incorrect threads aside. The OP...

No sorry looking closer it looks like a lip seal

It is a while ago since I overhauled mine so the olives or part missing is a little foggy, however just looking at this seal kit would the top right seal be "it" or perhaps im way off sorry! OIL SEAL KIT (CD4758P) - Hobourn Eaton Pump - Cars with a Hobourn Eaton pump - Pump & Hoses - Steering -...