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Thanks so much for posting the pictures. Both the manuals I have here don't make it clear that the SS trim has to be fitted to the body first. I also realise now that the trim needs a bit of force to get it fully seated. On a normal glass replacement the trim would stay in place, but I'd had it...

I've run into problems fitting the rear screen. Basically I can't work out how the stainless trim trim is supposed to fit. There is a folded edge which looks like it ought to sit inside the channel in the body, adjacent to the rubber. However if I try and fit it like this the screen won't push...

Thanks for the reply. I have a spare rear window here which has the same problem. It was only really an "icing on the cake" job, so I'll just refit the screen and pretend it never had a rear demister, from the factory

I've got the rear window out, and it seems a good time to look at the non functional demisters. All of the tracks are open circuit, and the problem seems to be rather more than just breaks in the track. It's almost as though the conductive material has completely oxidised. The only continuity I...

That's not right, from the 1967 factory manual 1) camber : 0deg +/- 1deg 2) castor: 0.5 deg positive +/- 0.5degree 3) swivel pin inclination: 8 deg 1) is the angle of the wheel when viewed from the front, negative means the wheels splay out 2) is the angle of the king pin (steering axis)...

Really appreciate the advice Harvey, and yes its very hard to judge when I've only ever owned or worked on this one example.

Hi Harvey I can try doing that - another idea I had was to lift up one wheel at a time and see if the steering effort is the same in both cases. So you don't think the steering damper has much effect when backsteering it via the wheels? When I say stiff to turn, as I say its difficult to...

Hi Dave, someone has already asked that and its on 165R14's standard size. I keep them pumped up a bit harder than the book says too, around 28psi or so. You are dead right though, even a small increase in tyre width could make the steering heavy - I remember that from the non-PAS car's I owned...

OK so I'm getting myself psyched up for taking off these top links. I had a look at the drivers side and the bushes on that side look well-chewed up - I'd say its allowing the link to move forward a good 2-3mm. Now the Rover manual shows these 3 retaining rods with flattened ends which hook in...

I've just replaced the front shock absorber bushes in my car and can report this has made a noticeable reduction in road noise.

Now your talking :cool:

Interesting reading this thread. My own car has more noise on the left hand side, both front tyres are the same type and it was just the same with the previous tyres. But none of the tyres will have been the same as the original Dunlop SP's which I think the car would have been fitted with new...

Donkeys years ago I drove a series 1 v8 and I don't remember it being like this. That car was 10 years old and about 65k miles. Did you put packers under both of the bell crank mounts, and can you remember how sensitive it was - e.g. how much effect did (say) a 1mm packing have? I do think a...

Tyres are 165R14, I have them a bit harder than the book says to try and reduce steering effort - about 30 psi. Tracking can't be far off as the tyres wear fairly evenly. Wheels are off at the moment so I can double check the tyre wear.

Thanks for so many replies! I can relate to classicalgreens "strength of popeye" comment. I had a power steering hose burst on an XJS once, and I'd say the Rover is giving that car a run for it's money on steering weight, when moving. One of the upper ball joints was replaced a while back, but...

This is something that is hard to judge, since I've been driving cars with PAS for so many years. I fully expect the car to be a bit heavy at parking speeds, but I've always been surprised how much effort is required to actually corner (especially when I think back to the manual steered cars I...

Thanks Ron, thats how I thought it probably would be. Actually, I re-read that section of the factory manual a bit more carefully this morning and I noticed they do include a diagram which shows the same.

Apologies if this has been asked before but I can't find the answer using the "search" feature. I am replacing the rearmost trailing arm bush i.e. the one where the arm connects to the deDion tube elbow. The replacement bush has two slots, and I wondered which way they are supposed to go? The...

For ambla/vinyl I used some stuff from frosts. I don't know if they still do it, you sent off a sample which they colour matched. I sprayed the dye on using a normal paint spray gun. A touch up gun might have been less wasteful, but it did a great job, which proved very durable too.

I think stale petrol would just make it harder to start, rather than a misfire. I've had petrol older than 12 months before now and they seem to run ok. Weird one with the brake pedal though.

I've had the clutch stick on numerous cars, over the years. I use the same method as Harvey, foot on clutch then start in gear, usually they free once the car has moved just a few yards. I don't see how it should do any damage, I've never had to be rough - the loads are only similar to going off...

I too have just had the brake fluid loss thing. However I'm not sure if MGBD spares actually have these calipers available. I recently tried to enquire about availability and got no reply to email and could not get a reply on the phone. I took this as a no.

Hi Karl If its stuff inbetween the carbs then I too wonder if these might be SU parts? Its might be worth a quick call to Burlen Fuel Systems.

You can get right angled screwdrivers, I've got one of these Angle Screwdriver Set 12Pc Or for tighter screws I have one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-Fatmax-Driver-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B00DLQQTFU It's out of stock on there but you get the gist.