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@harveyp6 is your man for advice on this. Hopefully he'll be along shortly. Good luck

I'd be very surprised it if was bolt up from underneath on either side. Standard practice would normally be bolt down from the top, nut underneath, as it prevents the engine wandering free if the nut works its way off the bottom. I think the fibre washers are part of a top hat piece for...

Great pic. I love all the complementary tones and colours

You're welcome. Glad you've been able to make plans. Enjoy the trip! PS: Nice profile picture. I took that photo myself many years ago when I first rebuilt me engine. It's been circulating on the P6 Club website for some years as part of their promotional stuff. Glad to you liked it.

Thanks, I've got as good access as you can get, so I'm hoping it's not too troublesome! I will have to remove the lever on the end of the throttle bar, which I'm hoping can be released alright on the pinchbolt. The mount and spring are already disconnected from the bulkhead. I'm assuming I'll...

Thanks. I've got the throttle shaft disconnected from its mount, so should be able to fit the grommet without too much fuss. The reserve tap O-ring was replaced last week. I'm hoping to find replacements for the battery main positive grommet, and the reserve tap cable grommet. I think I've found...

Thanks both, @Bernd - I'm not sure on the import restrictions either. @cobraboy - I have just PM'd you

Yes and no. In terms of mounting points, a passenger seat will go in, but it will foul the seat belt reel on a series 2 car (or at least a series 2 with inertia reels fitted). The early seats were modified in 1971 with the fitting of a chromed steel plate to pull the cushioning clear of the...

Looking for a pair of P6 steel rear wings. Ideally series 2, so they've got all the holes already drilled. Cosmetic condition unimportant - just need to be solid and free of any major dents or corrosion. They are for a bare metal respray job. I'm in Merseyside/Cheshire, and often in...

Hi, By the Dales, do you mean the Yorkshire Dales or the Peak District? Either way, we would consider those areas in the North of England (although I appreciate that on a map they are in the southern half of Britain). MGBD are based in Wolverhampton, although they have recently moved warehouse...

Securon 500/30 is your best bet for a series 2. They are manufactured brand new and come with all the fittings, which will fit the P6 anchor points. The buckle design isn't "period correct" but they're more likely to save you in an accident. If you have an original inertia reel buckle, it is...

That's a nice solution. JRW sells remanufactured selector fingers in the UK, but that looks a very acceptable alternative. And probably longer lasting than a repro nylon type.

What a fantastic story. I'd love to know more about it. Welcome to the Forum!

That's very impressive actually. I've always assumed it looks "over painted", as I've seen some leather seats that have been recoloured and it just doesn't look right. I'll get a sample from Woolies or one of those suppliers to see what it looks like. Thanks! PS: Assuming you sprayed this with...

Wow! Never seen one of those but I want one!! Wonder if they have been reproduced?

I may see you there. I'm hoping to pop down for a few hours. I don't think I've ever seen one for the choke, but if you find one, let me know as I like to "collect them all".

I was mistaken earlier. There is a 4-star label as well as 5-star label (see Hershman's photo), which would be suitable for your car, although it may not have been fitted to all models in all years.

I have a good set of ET headrests in Sandalwood. They are vinyl type (not leather), complete with buttons and working mechanisms. The usual fading of the piping that Sandalwood seems to suffer with, but otherwise clean and good. My car is Buckskin. If any owners of a Sandalwood car have a set...

Hi PNP, The P6 has a LOT of stickers on it, the majority of which are available from Classic Repro. The exact sticker design and location varies from model to model. To answer your specific questions: The under bonnet lubrication sticker was always at the bottom left on 4-cylinders Not...

JP is right about the clamps. The marker pen tip is a useful trick. You don't want to over-tighten the clamps as it will put strain through the screen and risk cracking from vibration or temperature changes. Here is what the clamps look like - there is one per side. The top nut jacks it up, the...

Can you be 100% sure it's water and not brake fluid? That would indicate master cylinder seals. The bulkhead in the drivers footwell has a handful of grommets in it, which could be perished, but they wouldn't let in a stream of water. The other possibility is via the heater box. If water is...

I saw this a few weeks ago. Certainly a lot of goodies, but looks like it may be a deceased estate, and the owners want to move it on in one lot. I imagine it'll get picked up by a dealer.

Congratulations on getting the car roadworthy again. In regard to tyre choice, you may wish to start a new thread as there is a bit of a debate here, and a lot seems to come down to personal preference. I'll summarise the factors at play.... the rest is at your discretion. Your 2200 will have...

I never considered that factor, but it makes complete sense. I assumed the pressing was to add a degree of torsional rigidity to the block, as it's quite thick gauge steel, and very very stiff. But aiding flow makes more sense on reflection.

On that side, no. You can do it in situ. But it involves supporting the engine from underneath and removing the crows foot mount. You can just about get to all the studs with a ring spanner, but it is tight behind the auxiliary drive housing. @BrianMac123 has recently successfully replaced a...