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Sorry, bad habit of mine. on a car its called a condenser (in side distributor as 99.9% of people already know) but it is basically a capacitor just an old term for it. Cheep to swap out as well and a good first point to start.

Nope, I still put my money on coil or capacitor, classic symptoms, gets warm and starts braking down, leave it a bit and then all ok until it gets warm again.

Coil! when a coil start failing one of the faults is as it warms up, it has a dry joint on the primary side that goes open open circuit. So worth checking the spark when it is failed state. I know this has happened to a older BMW and an older ford that i have repaired, both after about 20...

Got engine in last week! surprisingly easy!!! found a carb fault on commissioning that I didn't pick up on carb strip down, now waiting for parts before test firing. (the long wait for post over the easter weekend) So going to go and have close look at my possible next project, a ford P100...

Just putting it out there, i would also be looking at major vacuum leak. plug up the brake servo pipe port to rule out servo, if your servo is sucking air it would knock out / reduce power on half the engine, + check for vacuum leaks (I don't recommend propane gas being swept over joints to see...

I did this job only this week, I ended up using Stanley knife to carefully cut most of the way through the rubber over the white plastic and then eased off with a screw driver. it is meant to be a push on pipe but with age it doesn't and you rick breaking the fitting on the servo. the new pipe...

I have a Webasto sun shade + all the other less important Webasto bits bar any of the folding material from a 1976 P6. The car was in storage for 40 years so its in fairly good condition, bar the following defects: a faint 2" scratch in centre area, (above thumb in photo) Chrome on centre hinge...

On my calcs it basically works out that the outer face of the wheel is in roughly the same place on both wheel hubs and with the increase of offset and wider rims all the extra material is on the back face, makes sense and ties up with what Tony said above, didn't know about modified front hubs...

You are correct, I have found the stamping, the 150mm wide rims are indeed stamped 5-JFHX-14 with a 40mm offset and the 165mm rims are stamped 5.5-JSLX-14. I have measured all the 5.5J wheels and all measure an offset of 47.5mm and not what I thought was set in stone at 40mm. My personal...

The beads also have 15mm difference. These wheel came of P6 rovers, the 165mm rim is from a P6B Auto that was laid up in 1982 So offset on the 150mm wheel rim is indeed 40mm. the offset on the 165mm rim is 47.5mm. From my calculations the entire additional 15mm width is on the inside of the...

Bit of knowledge / confirmation of my theory. Re-Steel wheel rim width: Just paint striping the 5 wheel rims from the car, only after loads of work to notice that three of the wheels were skinny on width at 6" where as 2 were 6 1/2". I can only assume the skinny ones were taken from a 2000 /...

well almost there with the engine, still need a few bits for it and some weather to fit it, noted this is a later 9.25CR engine.

Also noted, all bearing were standard size and very little wear, replacing all new shells anyway with no grinding, also bores were standard size and very good, just a bit of honing required.

More before and after pics of my ongoing project (1974 P6 3500 Auto), started on last major task "Engine", I will let you all to decide which pic is before and after. Plus also rocker shaft found broken inside a post and measured 0.9mm of total wear / difference between rocker & shaft on...

Found it, 3/16 hex drive grub screw in centre, rear, bottom. will need a good driver to get it out as cheep hex key is not going to cut it.

Decided to rebuild the box on my project as not run since 1982 + heavy oil contamination on both sides (definitely had been leaking when it was running) Found one oil leak on one side, a servo O ring had been fitted incorrectly and pinched ( see pic) found second oil leak on other side, one of...

bit of knowledge needed please. I have a P6 project,( R Reg) and owned 2 others in the past, In regard to the inside door handles as per photo, i had assumed the all metal type were the series 1's and plastic trimmed type were the series 2's. But this rover I have has an all metal design that i...

Door No3 done, usual welding etc etc one to go. After working on 4 rear rover doors now, all had the 1/4 light lower pins corroded out! had to use some grey matter as well as made new pins, now all work fine, hope to get last door done by Christmas. (after tiding work shop as its degenerated in...

Just seen your post, seems its exactly the same project and problems, re the glass buffer, i used felt strip, same as the stuff you put on the bottom of chair legs. also for corrosion control i used zinctec sheet steel for the metal work (had one 1mm sheet outside for a year and no rust!)...

Door No 2 done, had another 100mm re metaled at the bottom as appears to be the norm, lots of internal repairs. Fitting tomorrow and then onto No3 door,

On a similar note, I replaced all break line on my project in September (Series 2 V8) and discovered it had all single flared brake line joints, this is a big No No now as must be either double or bubble flared as required. cant remember what the res connection was but its not a pressure joint...

Getting a move on my project now that had been laid up since 1982 in an actual barn on a farm! (im sure a well known phrase for that), after a years break of working on it to build a good workshop that is warm in the winter and a good size, all main welding done, brakes done, running gear done...

Agreed, Just going through this chat, I am restoring a rover , in storage since 1982 (ish) heater box needed some TLC with a welder, and the internal foam rubber panels glued onto the flaps inside were dust when touched. the matrix though was perfect, tested at 1 bar (chickened out of going...

At what point do you scrap a panel, I rebuild a pair of rear wings over the last few weeks and with hindsight i think i should have sourced a better base on one of them to start on. (wanted to keep the original panels for some silly reason!). Good practice though as a time will come when no...

Looks like a new boot lid is going to be required, the spare wheel kit appears to have fitted without a gaskets so the ally has reacted with the steel over the years