Search results

As others have said, having the carburettors working correctly and equally the same in terms of suction and fuel delivery is paramount. If the carburettors are out, then the engine will not run as it should. The problem may well have been the carburettors right from the start. Ron

I am not sure if my Rover's toe bar was fitted in 1974 or in 1978 after my father purchased the car. Like door mirrors, no two Rovers in Australia seemed to have the same arrangement. The bar is attached into the boot floor and at each bumper bar support bracket. The chrome features no rust...

The link below contains a photo of the parts to strengthen the base unit. The base unit needs to be in good condition when using these parts. Given the severity of the rust in your base unit, Wilfred, potentially cutting out and replacing all of the rusted sections might be the only option...

Hi John, Your toe bar is very different to mine. Surprising to think that there are so many variations. I will take some photos and post them tomorrow. Ron

Hi Richard, Rovers that were CKD for the Australian market when fitted with a toe bar, were locally sourced items. I have never seen any two P6Bs locally that had the same toe bar. The toe bar on my Rover looks nothing like the one in your photo. Ron

No, from my experience the mount should be firmly against the body with no gap. Ron

The 3500S in Australia are extremely hard to come by. Only 250 were officially imported. If you could find one, be prepared to spend a lot of money to acquire it. The few that are left I dare say have likely all be restored or maintained throughout their lives. Ron

What are the specification for the pump that you purchased, Paul? Aside from the pump parameters, a float that has taken on fuel will sink delivering what you describe, fuel pouring onto the ground while the engine is running. Follow a process of elimination. Either remove the o/s carburettor...

That is not the slave cylinder for one of our Rovers. Where did that come from? The pushrod does not belong in the air control valve housing, so if that is how it comes... Ron

Hi Duane, I agree with Richard, you'll need to take the trailing arms out with cross member. It might seem like more, but it will make things much easier. The bushes in the cross member will need to be pressed out and the new ones in. Ron

That's great Bert! Hope they perform well. Everyone appreciates you sharing the part number information, thanks! Ron

The challenge now is sourcing the oil seals, which are hard to come by. When I replaced my Rover's original bearings in 1989 at 71,095 miles (113,750km) with British made Timkin bearings, the Castrol advisor that I spoke to in Sydney strongly advised me not to use HTB, and that I should use...

From memory JP, HRC2479 are the 10 bolt heads that Rover introduced for the P38 4.0 and 4.6 litre Range Rovers. The earlier Range Rovers had 14 bolt heads, but in 1994 the 3.9s also received the 10 bolt heads. Ron

From what you have said Gerald, I am placing my money on the filter being blocked. When my Rover's filter blocked, it dumped fluid everywhere. Changed the filter and all good again. I think you will be very lucky to find one from Repco, but no harm in trying. I bought a genuine item years ago...

Hi Gerald, Changing the belt in itself won't deliver outcomes that you're now reporting, not unless the old belt was so loose and now an adjusted belt is revealing another problem. Oil being dumped is normally because your filter is either blocked or you have too much oil in the system. When...

Hi John, ERR5250 is a genuine asymmetrical camshaft for the factory 4.6 litre engine meaning there is no nose on the camshaft. There is no provision to drive a distributor as the 4.6 didn't have one. Ron

Hi Rob, For the imperial threaded bolts, source grade 5, identified by 3 radial lines on the head, set 120 degrees apart. Ron

Sounds a good plan Michael. Ron

Here is an image of a shock tower for the circa 1968 Ford Mustang. This is what the mechanic is thinking of, and for our Rover, it does not have them, not in the sense that they are a regular item to replace. Ron

Hello Albert, I have seen the occasional car where the shock towers are bolted to the body (not the Rover), so my assumption is that is what he is referring to. I dare say he has no idea about the Rover. Ron

Hi Peter, It could be one of the pads from the near-side brake. If the material has all but gone contact between the disk and the backing plate will do as you describe. If inspection shows this not to be the case, either one or more half-shaft universal joints could be in need of replacement...

Hi Paul, Great result! Thanks for posting the outcome of your endeavours. It is always a benefit to other owners when we do so. Cheers. Ron

Hi Craig, Rear calipers can leak, the fluid flowing into the metal tins that sit on each caliper. The rubber seal around the base helps to retain the fluid. The flexible rubber hoses and the front caliper seals, although in this case you will see the fluid dripping down on the inside of the...

It is probably just a rubbish part. My transmission was fitted with a NOS inhibitor switch that I acquired some year 20 years earlier, and it has never leaked. Unless you can source a NOS item, you will likely need to live with it leaking, which I can appreciate would be very annoying. Ron

Hello Jim, It certainly appears to be the brushes being in need of replacement, or rather more likely just one of them. They are easy to replace, the part that takes the longest is removing and refitting the alternator. (102) Ammeter Discharge When Headlights On | Classic Rover Forum Ron